I have a 1070 with very wide turf tires. I would like to swap out for narrow turf tire or R4 tires. There is a set locally from a John Deere 4066 in R4. Would these fit onto my 1070? as far as I can tell, at least on the back wheels the bolt spacing and pilot hole is correct. just having trouble figuring out if offsets will be an issue. I'd really hate to buy the set and not have them fit. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!
John deere 1070 wheel tire swap?
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Is the 1070 4 wheel or 2 wheel drive? It matters because if 4 wheel you need to keep the front to rear ratio close to what it has currently other wise the drivetrain will bind too much when 4 wheel drive is activated.
if 2 wheel drive then the best thing to do is get out your measuring tape and see if they will fit.
My 1070 came with 28" R1 rears. I had a minor issue with haying because low range 3rd gear was too slow while 2nd range 1st gear was too fast. I saw an ad from a guy who grooms golf courses and bought a new JD which came with 24" R4's along with R4 fronts, plus they were loaded with RimGuard. He wanted to put wide Turf's on and had the R4's for sale.
They fit my 1070 just fine. and no interference at all. Plus the new size set eliminated the tendency to have difficulty disengaging gears when in 4wd and stopped. Let me point out that the R4's with RimGuard were a LOT heavier than my R1's with chloride, which I found out was caused by the R4's were filled more than recommended. Bottom line is that the ride is better now and the snow traction seems to be better, too. No more tire marks on my concrete, too, as the F/R drive gearset is matched better.
BTW: My 1070 came with an 80 loader with the pinned bucket. I found a JD kit BW15939 which gave me their Hook & Pin quick attach loader feature. Had to trim off 1/8" from the curl cylinder collars to fit the cast steel rockers. Found a 7' JD snow pusher, set of 48" forks, and a new bucket that goes on the Q.A. setup real nize. Bought Q.A. plates on Amazon and fabbed a frame for mounting an offset hydraulic post hole digger, trailer mover, and will soon have my 8' truck snow plow mounting brackets on it.
They fit my 1070 just fine. and no interference at all. Plus the new size set eliminated the tendency to have difficulty disengaging gears when in 4wd and stopped. Let me point out that the R4's with RimGuard were a LOT heavier than my R1's with chloride, which I found out was caused by the R4's were filled more than recommended. Bottom line is that the ride is better now and the snow traction seems to be better, too. No more tire marks on my concrete, too, as the F/R drive gearset is matched better.
BTW: My 1070 came with an 80 loader with the pinned bucket. I found a JD kit BW15939 which gave me their Hook & Pin quick attach loader feature. Had to trim off 1/8" from the curl cylinder collars to fit the cast steel rockers. Found a 7' JD snow pusher, set of 48" forks, and a new bucket that goes on the Q.A. setup real nize. Bought Q.A. plates on Amazon and fabbed a frame for mounting an offset hydraulic post hole digger, trailer mover, and will soon have my 8' truck snow plow mounting brackets on it.
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oldtimer 66
Platinum Member
My 400x loader has a stop block at the rod end of the curl cylinder. It looks like your curl cylinder just hits the loader arm at full curl. This stop block keeps the curl cylinder from hitting the loader arm. I can send a picture later.
It is 4 wheel drive. I've seen a couple people who said they'd put 17.5x24s rear. I'm not sure what front size is. the guy who has the wheels off the 4066 has both front and back in R4 from that tractor. I am just unsure if the offset and front wheel spacing will work. from what I can tell, the back wheel spacing is correct, but I'm new to John Deere stuff so don't want to make a mistake
That looks like exactly what I want to do with mine! do you know what model those wheels came off?
also, are those rears 17.5x24 or 16.9x24? thanks
oldtimer 66
Platinum Member
Your loader frame is different than mine. One of my pics shows the max curl with the bucket on. There is about a half inch of clearance then. I can hand roll the bucket where the rod end of the cylinder almost hits the stop block. With any amount of weight in the bucket and doing a full curl the rod end will easily hit the stop block as you can see from the other picture. This does not need to be a bucket but any device will cause it to hit with a full curl. The stop block is .50 X 1.62 X 2.0 for reference. Just for information.
My R4s are 10x16.5 front and 16.9x2 rear.
The loader arm has built in triangular cylinder stops that engage the cast steel Q.A. brackets to limit travel. BTW: There is also a similar JD Q.A. kit which has U channel brackets instead of the cast versions. Not sure of the difference, but my dimensional measurements from a dealers display machine made me select the cast versions. This supposedly works on a 440 loader as well.
The loader arm has built in triangular cylinder stops that engage the cast steel Q.A. brackets to limit travel. BTW: There is also a similar JD Q.A. kit which has U channel brackets instead of the cast versions. Not sure of the difference, but my dimensional measurements from a dealers display machine made me select the cast versions. This supposedly works on a 440 loader as well.
do you know what model they came off?
