John Deere 1050 Starting Issue

[Elrod Tractor]

Hello, brand new member. Need some help. Hailing from Elrod, Alabama.

Some History: I have a JD 1050 (diesel) that has been operated very infrequently for the last 15 years. When I say infrequently, I mean 2-3 times a year bush hogging.

I went through it pretty well when I bought it: changed all the fluids, flushed out fuel tank, greased, etc. Ran well until recently.

One day, I stalled the tractor as I was turning into my barn and it would not restart. I had just disengaged the PTO and was raising my bushhog. I tried to re-start, but it would not. It turned over and chugged black smoke, but wouldn't restart. I knew I was low on fuel, so I stopped trying to restart it and filled up the tank. When I went to restart after filling, I had no ignition lights. I then got ignition lights, but no click of solenoid or turn-over of engine. Here's what has happened since then :

-checked voltage at "outlet" of relay going to solenoid: 0 volts. Had an extra relay so I changed it out. Relay showed 9.5 volts. No clicks, no turn over.
-checked the battery. It was borderline under load, so I replaced it. Still only 9.5 volts at relay contact to solenoid.

Had to work, so had to take a break. Went out early this morning...decided to see if something magical had happened overnight (yeah, that never works) and the ignitions lights didn't come on. Wiggled the ground wire a bit and lights came on.

-took off ground wire, cleaned it, applied dielectric compound. Checked continuity through ground wire--good. A little bit of very light corrosion on the terminal side, but nothing major.

Still no ignition lights.

I have done the "idiot" checks a 100 times...High/Low is in neutral, transmission in neutral, PTO disengaged.

Other things I have looked at, but not thoroughly investigated:

-Looked at PTO safety switch--plunger goes in and out, wires appear connected. Did not test.
-Looked at neutral safety switch (externally). Wires connected, appears to be okay visually.

Thought about buying the Low Voltage relay kit (JD AM107421), but I'm not sure it works on a 1050 and dealer doesn't know either.

I suspect I have a lot of things wrong at once, but right now I'm considering buying a new ignition switch (it was originally very balky). I'm not a great troubleshooter and I don't have a schematic, so I often resort to "easter egging" if the part doesn't cost too much.

I'm at a loss--can someone help?

 

[Tx Jim]

Welcome to this forum.
So by you stating "Still no ignition lights" does that indicate engine will not spin over by engaging the starter?

If so clean the "other 3 battery cable" connections.

How many volts does battery show using a volt/ohm meter? Relay kit you listed is not listed for a 1050 but I have no doubt it could be installed and made to work.

 

[Willl]

Voltage at battery ?

 

[Elrod Tractor]

Engine will not spin over, nor will solenoid engage when I turn the key. I cleaned the battery terminals/connections, the ground connection to the frame, and the positive lead that goes directly to the starter. I'll have to clean the others.

The lights I am referring to are the "dash" lights--2 red lights that energize when I turn the key to "on."

The voltage at the battery is about 12.7 volts

 

[LD1]

Start checking where you dont have power and should. If the battery is good, and you are positive the connections are good, move on down the line and check and see if you have power on the battery cable at the starter.

THAT is most likely where it picks up power for the fuse box. So start checking fuses and see if you have power that them. If you have power to the fuses and the fuses are good (use an ohm meter. Dont rely on just a visual), see if you have power even getting to the keyswitch.

Now I dont know how yours is wired, but it wouldnt hurt to check all the safetys too. Seat safety, PTO safety, Neutral safety. If they arent in the correct position, you may get nothing at all to the key. Just depends on how its wired. But again, I am umfamiliar with your model.

 

[LD1]

I didnt find a schematic of the 1050, but this "may" help some, http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...tion-switch-wiring-thermostart-yam240elec.gif

Its for a yanmar, and the 1050 is built for deere by yanmar.

But the thing that I noticed (and I dont know if yours is similar), is that the ignition switch gets power V-regulator. Looks like the A terminal. Red and white wire. See if you have 12v there? and if you do, look at the back of your switch and see if you are getting 12 volts on the B terminal. Should be the same color wire you just checked on the v-reg.

It appears that yanmar (if yours is similar) have the safeties between the switch and starter solenoid. So if it was any of the safety switches, you should still get power to everything. It only kills the starter.

 

[Elrod Tractor]

LD1,

Thanks for the tips. When I get home tonight, I'll check those fuses and the ignition switch.

 

[Elrod Tractor]

I only found a little time this weekend to troubleshoot the tractor....too many irons in the fire.

First, I did replace a fuse and got my dash lights back on. Thanks for the suggestion to check with a meter, because they all looked good.

I was running to town anyway, so I took the starter off to have it tested and it tested just fine.

I took off the PTO safety switch and checked continuity when it is depressed (the way I understand it, when it is depressed the PTO lever is in the disengaged position) and I had continuity. No continuity when not depressed.

I reinstalled the PTO switch and wanted to check the positioning of the switch to make sure it was installed in the right position. I decided to test it to see if it was depressing so I turned the switch to "on" and then to "start" and nothing happened. With the switch still in the "start" position, I moved the PTO lever to engaged and I heard a noise (hard to describe, kind of like a clunk) and the dash lights went out.

What could the "clunk" sound have been? A fusible link blowing? The solenoid engaging? (I know that doesn't make sense, but that is what it sounded like).

Any ideas?

 

[Tx Jim]

Clunk sound could have been the starter gear engaging flywheel ring gear.

 

[Barry 1]

My 1050 doesn't have a PTO switch,or any relay to the solenoid(add on ??) and there is nothing in the service manual about these items.It only has a neutral switch on the Hi-low shifter.The power goes from the key switch,through the neutral switch,to the little terminal on the solenoid-very simple. You could have bad connection,key switch,wiring,or that relay.The power to the key switch comes from a wire attached to the battery terminal on the starter-no fuse or link that I know of.
Find where the power for the relay comes from,and check that for bad connection.