jinma 354 wont start, dead....

[gergstuff]

I have a jinma 354 2007 I believe. I went to start it today to get a car unstuck from my driveway. Turned the key, all the usual lights lighted up, voltmeter showing 12 volts. Turned the key to heat waited 10 seconds then to start cranked for a few seconds then everything went dead. Turned key off then back on and nothing. Waited a few minutes turned key on lights on gauges active went to heat, everything went dead. Tried a few more times nothing, dead. Got my truck to pull the car that got stuck came back to the tractor after perhaps 20 minutes. Tried the key, power on, went to heat all ok tried to start and it spun a few revolutions then stopped. Tried key lights on went to start heard some small buzzing sound then nothing. Now no anything when I turned the key. Battery shows fine.
What gives?
any good ideass where to start.
thanks as always for the help.

craig

 

[SPIKER]

Sounds like the Key Switch went on ya. Heating thru it causes the contacts to heat up and they open up.

 

[greg_g]

I'm surprised your keyswitch lasted this long actually The failure rate is so well documented, that some savvy owners actually changed them out for aftermarket within a week of purchase. I recommend either the Ford or the Lucas cold start switch. Lucas is the better of the two, but harder to find. If you go Ford, just make sure you avoid the cheap Chinese clones

//greg//

 

[Rich Waugh]

Whatever key switch you end pu installing, I recommend putting a relay on the starter solenoid circuit and also on the glow plug circuit. The relays are cheap ($10) and with them and a few feet of #10 wire you then take almost all the load off the key switch contacts and supply much greater ampacity to the load circuit.

 

[gergstuff]

Ok, that all seems to make sense, any chance anyone has a part number for the ford or lucas switch?

lesson learned, will install a relay too.

anyway to bypass the key switch and get it started?

craig

 

[SPIKER]

bottom area I think should work but search FORD switch will get lots of results here on TBN.

ColdJinma

Looks like the URL in the word document dont work but TSC has the switches 25bucks

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/starter-and-heat-switch-for-ford-diesel-engines?cm_vc=-10005

relays style like this and the base wired can be had at the same time at same place just NOT this one.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Relay-Glow-Plug/_/N-9cj6e?itemIdentifier=206249_0_0_

note this one is way high over priced, generic 30 amp relays should be 20 bucks with the pre-wired connector bases at most places. GM thing above is stupid priced at 179bucks lol
Mark

 

[greg_g]

That link SPIKER provided is for one of the Chinese clones. Caveat emptor. The current Ford number is E7NN11603AA, but that switch has been around a long time. Older part numbers for the same switch include C5NN11N572A, D5NN11N572A, D3NN11N501A, E8NN11N501AA, D5NN11N501A, 81871583, 83902803, 83959710, and 83976890. Not sure, but I think Lucas uses the same numbers. If not, they'll certainly cross over. Lucas is to the UK as Ford is to the USA.

//greg//

 

[Bob Rooks]

Forget the Ford, OEM, and other aftermarket switches. Get the Cole-Hersee switch. It's sealed, and designed for extreme environments. Available at NAPA and other parts sources.

 

[gergstuff]

Might you happen to have the Cole-Hersee part number? NAPA can't seem to cross reference the Ford parts number.
Thanks,
Craig

 

[RonMar]

You could also replace the key with a couple of heavy duty toggle switches. These things are so easy to hotwire, a key is very little protection. A hidden cutout switch would give me way more peace of mind than a key switch installed in an open back console