Jinma 354 Hydraulics

[kjensen]

All,

I have a question about the hydraulics on a Jinma 354. My father just bought one of these. I have a Jinma 184, but dad's is a bit different with respect to the configuration of the three point hitch. Unfortunately, we don't have any manuals... So I am hoping for a bit of information.

On the 354, it look like there is a small cylinder that could potentially change the length of the top bar. However, it isn't clear to me how to make the thing do anything. There is a linkage going from the valve back to the near end of the top link.

If you can tell me a bit about how these hydraulics work, what they should do, and then I can start digging into this thing and figuring out what it should do.

-Nate

 

[Localmotion]

Hi Nate - if you can post some photos it'll help...

You say it can potentially change the length of the top bar - do you mean top link? If so there will be hoses to the top link which attach to the spool aux quick fit connectors.

Othewise (and I think this is what you mean), there is a small cyliner behind where the top link mounts, with a linkage back to the spool block? If so this is draft control - you should have a second control lever (normally next to the the 3pt position lever) to alter the draft. The draft will automatically lift the implement slightly if wheel slipage is excessive - as sensed by the top link cylinder. Normally draft is used for plouging and cultivations. The amount of draft control can be adjusted using the lever - totally forwards is no draft control / totally back is full draft control (although this will often lift the implement with no wheel slip at all).

We import the Siromer (same as Jinma) range into Spain, and while I have not yet seen draft fitted as standard on any of the tractors we supply, the Yancheng factory are continually modifying and improving the design so I am guessing that they are now fitting it to the larger tractors... :thumbsup:

 

[greg_g]

Yup, that'll be your draft control feedback linkage. It's the rubber boot that probably made you think it potentially extends. What actually happens is that when a ground engaging implement starts to dig too deep, it exerts a pulling force on the toplink. The toplink in turn pulls on the feedback linkage, which in turn causes the lower lift arms to raise the implement to a working height that you've preset on the right hand lift control lever.

//greg//

 

[kjensen]

Gents,

What you say seems exactly correct. But help me out a bit more... The 3pt control lever is clearly operational/functional. I am a bit less clear on the draft control lever. There is what appears to be a foot pedal below the three point control lever. Is this the draft control lever? I have messed with this lever a bit, but I can't see that it does much of anything. (I only have a scraper blade on the tractor now).


Forgive my ignorance, but how would I actually set and use this thing in practice with an implement like box scaper, plow, middlebuster, etc? What do I need to do to execute a basic function check of this system to conclude that it does indeed function correctly?

Thanks for your help!
-Nate

 

[Rich Waugh]

The draft control on your Jinma is part of the single lever control for the three point hitch. The top half (or so) of the travel of the lever is "Position Control". The TPH stays where you put it and if an implement hangs up in the ground you'll come to a halt. If you push the lever down past the halfway point it gets into the "Draft Control"mode where the draft control will sense drag on the implement and raise the TPH until the drag eases. There's nothing specific about setting the draft control, you just have to experiment with it to determine what setting is right for the particular ground-engaging implement you have on and the soil conditions at the time you're using it.

When the draft control is implemented you should be able to set the TPH to a given height without any implement and push on the end of the piston linkage and the draft control will then raise the TPH. Pushing on the piston simulates an implement dragging and triggers the draft control. If your draft control hasn't been used it may be a bit stiff and take a hard push. Try a little bit of WD-40 on it to loosen it up. You don't generally use draft control with a scraper box unless you have the scarifiers set really deep. It is more useful on a middle buster, two-bottom plow or other ground-engaging implement.

The lever below that lever is a foot pedal for the differential lock. The diff lock is used when you have a bit of rear wheel slippage but don't really need to use the front wheel drive assist. You'll be surprised at how effective locking the differential can be in slippery conditions. It's a sort of "poor man's posi-traction", only better. When you step on the pedal the rear differential is locked so both wheels are under power until you either stop or coast. At that time it will disengage automatically. You don't need to keep holding the pedal down, just step on it until you feel the change in rear traction.

Hope this helps you out. I strongly recommend that you contact one of the dealers who advertise here and obtain the manuals and parts books for your tractors. They aren't terrific, being written in Chinese and translated by someone who speaks Urdu or something, but they have all the diagrams and parts breakdowns and tell you when you need to do what service. They're an excellent investment if you want your tractors to have long and useful lives.

 

[Affordable]

We have the manuals in stock,just confirm which engine you have

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Localmotion]

Brillient reply from RichWaugh - as I say we haven't imported any Siromers / Jinmas with draft control fitted yet, so it did not occur to me they may have gone for the single lever approach, and it is great to hear what Yangcheg are now doing and get feedback rom people like yourself and Rich who have used it...

Just to clarify one thing though - when using the difflock, be sure to stop the tractor and depress the clutch before depressing the difflock, otherwise you'll do damage! The ideal way to use a manual difflock is:

1. Depress clutch and allow tractor to stop.
2. Depress & hold down Difflock
3. Release clutch
4. Release Difflock when you are out of the sticky point! There is no need to stop the tractor or depress the clutch when releasing the difflock.

As Rich says - get the manuals, and possibly even get a bit of training / coaching from somebody used to using a tractor (lots of people willing to help on TBN), especially with regard to using the draft. You probably won't want to use it for grading etc... :thumbsup: