Jinma 354 Gearing and Oil Question

   / Jinma 354 Gearing and Oil Question #1  

akmountaineer

New member
Joined
Mar 16, 2012
Messages
4
Location
Lakes, AK
Tractor
Kubota L3130
I'm the proud new owner of a 2003 Jinma 354 and have a few questions after reading through the manual.

The manual says that first and second gear can't be used for plowing or pulling heavy loads, otherwise it will damage the transmission. Is this really accurate? My tractor work is mostly going to be on steep narrow hillside terraces where fast speeds just wont work.

My second question is on the type of fluid for the gear box, transfer case and front differential. The manual says to use 40 weight diesel oil but it seems to me that it should be some type of heavyweight gear oil.

Thanks for the help!
 
   / Jinma 354 Gearing and Oil Question #2  
The Chinese to English translations leave a lot to be desired, we call it "Chinglish". I believe what they were trying to say is that the 1st and 2nd highest gears (which on your tractor would be H4 and H3) are too "tall" for any meaningful work. They're basically just for moving the tractor down the road. When work needs doing, you drop down into H2 or H1. Or even further down into low range; L4/L3/L2/L1

Work is typically performed with the throttle set so the tach needle is in the green mark (best torque). From there you vary your ground speed by range and gear selection. Just haulin' down the road, you can open the throttle all the way in H3 or H4

What you use in the gear boxes and differentials depends upon where and when you're going to work the tractor. For most, 80W90 gear oil is adequate. Hot climates can use thicker, frigid climates need thinner.

//greg//
 
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   / Jinma 354 Gearing and Oil Question #3  
Quite possibly the intent of that message is to mean don't use 1st or 2nd gears in high range for those tasks.
 
   / Jinma 354 Gearing and Oil Question #4  
I have a 304 Jinma, very similar to your 354 just a couple fewer horsepower. I do much of my bush hogging on hillsides and generally use L1 or L2 and use L3 or L4 on the flats. Even H1 is a bit too much ground speed for clean mowing with my cutter. As advised, I strive to keep my throttle set so the engine is operating at peak torque, about 2000 rpm on my 304. For plowing, you'll almost certainly not want to use anything higher than L2 or you risk damage if hang the plow on something and can't get shut down quickly enough. Always bear in mind that regardless of how well you're going forward, you will only ever have two brakes on the rear wheels for stopping.

I'll also recommend that if you have a loader on your tractor, try to avoid using 4WD when using the loader. You risk damage tot he front drive train if the rear wheels spin when in 4WD and the front is loaded with a heavy bucket. Of course, trying to use a loader like a bulldozer will almost certainly break something. For situations where you're in 2WD and the rear wheel slips, use the differential lock as the first resort - you'll be surprised at how effective it can be. It is self-releasing so no worries about damaging something after you get moving again.

I'm in the Virgin Islands, a mostly tropical zone with temps between 64F and 94F year-round and I use 85W90 gear oil in the transmission and axles and differentials, 15W40 motor oil and AW46 hydraulic fluid for the hydraulics and steering pump. I have found the 85W90 gear oil to be just right for the gear box. I initially tried AW32 hydraulic fluid in the lift box but found that it was not as good as the heavier 46 viscosity fluid. I've never had any reason to try anything other than the 15W40 motor oil.

Note - the injector pump needs to be kept filled with the appropriate amount of motor oil. It should be changed when you do a 6-month service.

Use a brand name SCA-type coolant designed for wet-sleeved diesel engines and keep it fresh. Keep a close eye on the radiator fins for blockage from chaff and dust and clean them regularly or you'll experience overheating. The air filter canister blocks a good bit of radiator flow so it operates at the edge of marginal. The thermostat is an 85C stat and some don't seal properly so the engine doesn't come up to heat quickly enough. The radiator cap is only about a 7psi rating - don't mistakenly replace it with a higher pressure cap or you can damage the radiator.

There's a bit of information that I've gleaned after a couple three years of owning my Jinma. As noted, the manuals are not that well translated from the Chinese and can be confusing. There are a lot of guys here with the knowledge you will need so just ask about anything that is unclear.

Enjoy your new tractor! These are amazing little workhorses.
 
   / Jinma 354 Gearing and Oil Question #5  
Has as been written take the manual with a grain of salt it is chinglish. On the gear oil if it were me I'd use a good 80-90weight.
 
   / Jinma 354 Gearing and Oil Question
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks everyone for the advice and words of wisdom, it is much appreciated.
 
   / Jinma 354 Gearing and Oil Question #7  
+1 on everything said except for Rich's comment on the Hydraulic fluid. If you go below freezing in temperature, The heavier hydro fluid will take a long time to work in hte 3 point-- note that Rich is fortunate in that he does not have to experience that problem where he is :D:D
 

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