Jinma 284 Overheating

[b dukes]

I finally fixed all of the other issues I had with this tractor, but When I started cutting grass today the temp would slowly creep up until it would get close to the red mark and I shut it off. Washed the radiator out and started cutting again with the same results. I pulled the battery out and that seemed to fix the problem. Cut the rest of my grass , it took about an hour. This time the temp stayed around 85c by the gauge. When I got this tractor it did not have a battery in it. I took one of the batteries out of my boat to use. Looks like it blocks alot of air flow through the radiator. What is the correct size battery for this tractor and has anyone ever had to relocate the battery.,

Also what should the oil pressure run hot ( somewhere around 3/4 throttle and at idle.

 

[greg_g]

The early Jinmas were notorious for that. Not only would the tall Chinese battery block airflow through nearly 1/2 of the radiator, it also caused seeds/chaff/dirt to clog the cooling fins directly behind it. On later models, Jinma fixed it with a sunken battery tray. But those of us before that had to compensate with low profile batteries. I recommend the Group 49, and frequent external cleaning of the radiator. Don't be tempted to use a power washer, it will damage the delicate aluminum cooling fins.

//greg//

 

[RonMar]

What Greg said, the later jinma's put the battery down between the frame rails under the hood latch mechanism. I don't use water to clean out the radiator. to use enough force to do any good, the water has too much mass and will bend fins as mentioned.

I made a air blowgun extender out of an 18" piece of aluminum arrow shafting. This fits on a standard air blowgun, and has a hole drilled in the end perpendicular to the arrow shaft. I can push this narrow pipe down between the rear radiator fan shroud and the radiator at the top rear corners. These access points allow me to reach 99% of the rear radiator surface to blow air back thru to the front of the radiator. This removes tons of debris and the fine dust that cloggs the "V" shaped fin passages. Moisture will mostly only wet it and cement it in place...

I also add a single layer of aluminum window screen wrapped around the slide-in radiator protector plate. This catches most all the debris kicked up during mowing, and allows me to restore cooling quickly in the field when the temp creeps up, by pulling the shield and smacking the debris off of it against the rear tire. With the pre-screen, I only need to use the blowgun rarely as routine maintenance...

 

[Affordable]

I have some of the newer battery boxs, it will not work on all tractors but has worked on many models to lower the battery down

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales Co.
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Diamondpilot]

I agree with the guys and would say lower the battery.

As for Oil Press I would first check it with a hand held unit but 7 psi or so at idle is good and I have always heard 6-7psi per 1000 rpm.

Chris

 

[greg_g]

Sorry, I missed the last line of your opening post. You said you have the old dash with individual gauges, and most of those oil pressure gauges had metric scales. Oil pressure was indicated in MPa (mega-pascals) on a scale from 0.0 to 0.5 I think. One MPa equals ~145 psi. At operating temperatures, my tractors would idle around 600-700 rpm and indicate between 0.05 and 0.07 MPa (7-10 psi). My dealer has stated in these forums that pressures down to 0.04 at warm idle are safe. At 3/4 throttle on the same warm engine, they typically ran up between the 0.2 and 0.3 marks (29-43 psi).

For others reading this, I'm talking about the pre-EPA engines. This advice may not apply to 2007 and later models.

//greg//