Jinma 224 ball joint replacement.

[TSMART]

How difficult of a job is this to do? Any specialty tools required? Any "how to" pics or videos around? Thanks.

 

[greg_g]

Presumably you're talking about the circulating ball at the end of the steering pull rod(s). If yes, pretty simple: loosen jam nut, screw old one off, screw new one on, adjust alignment, tighten jam nut. As far as tools, just a couple open end wrenches and a tape measure

//greg//

 

[Rich Waugh]

I'm also assuming you mean replacing the tie rod ends and will note that in addition to doing what Greg said, you should make sure the new ones are properly adjusted for clearance as well as setting the toe-in. The toe-in is listed in your owner's manual, but they don't tell you about adjusting the joint itself, though it is simple. Just look at the flat end of it and you'll see a full-width screw driver slot - loosen that and then re-tighten until there is no slop in the joint at all. Before I got my Jinma I'd never seen adjustable ball joints, but they definitely are adjustable and need to set tight enough to avoid any play.

 

[TSMART]

A couple years ago I had replaced the 3" felt dust washers, and had the knuckle apart and the tie rods disconnected...maybe I did not tighten enough upon re assembly.. I will take a look at that tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[TSMART]

I think I have 2 problems now....where the steering shaft attaches to the knuckle, the rubber bushing is shot and grease is leaking out of it. (front side of knuckle)

What is the test to see if the tie rod ends are not tightened enough? Do I get the front off the ground and look for some kind of excessive play?

 

[greg_g]

When I had a similar problem, I discovered that the individual rubber boots were not available. You had to buy the whole **** mechanical joint just to get a fresh boot. But things may have changed since, so it won't hurt to ask any Jinma dealer if the boots may now be available separately.

As far as adjustment, you don't lift the front end. Just follow the alignment procedure that's in your operations & maintenance manual.

//greg//

 

[Rich Waugh]

Yes, that's how you check them. Lift the front end so there is no load on the tie rod ends and then attempt to wiggle them by shaking the wheel. Look for any movement that is in the ball joint itself - there shouldn't be any.

You don't need the front end up to set the toe-in, but you do to check the tie rod end lash up.

 

[Affordable]

You can get just the rubber cups/ boots, we have them in stock

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[TSMART]

I inspected it today, there is a lot of play at the steering joint, and a lot of play behind the knuckle at the tie rod end. Not hardly any on the other tie rod end.

A while back I posted about my tire getting sideways sometimes; I bet that was because of the play in the tie rod....

So all there is to this job is to replace the rubber donut on the steering/knuckle and tighten castle nut till there's no play?

And as far as the tie rod ends go, just do the same?

Also when you measure for toe in, do you just pick a point in the middle of the tires when they are in contact with the ground?

 

[Rich Waugh]

That's pretty much correct. I suggest starting with taking one tie rod end off and setting the lash in it so it is very tight when hand checked, replacing any worn rubber or felt parts and re-greasing the cup. Then do the next one and so on until all parts that have potential play in them are free of play and refurbished properly. Then take the tie rod and check it for straightness by rolling it on a bench or other flat surface - mine has bent several times when I got a wheel snagged in a rut and forced it. Since the tie rod determines the toe-in it needs to be straight first.

I finally reinforced my tie rod by dropping a piece of rebar inside it, which seems to have taken care of he constant bending. You may or may not have that problem.

Once everything is straight, true and snug, then set the toe-in by chalking a line down the center of the tread face of the front tires and adjusting the tie rod length until the proper measurement is obtained. I do that with the front wheels off the ground to eliminate drag, but you can do it anyway you want.

 

[greg_g]

I do that with the front wheels off the ground to eliminate drag, but you can do it anyway you want.

Taking "the front wheels off the ground" changes the camber. Plus the front end is now rocking on the pivot pin. Both of these things can skew any attempted toe-in measurements. As such, I recommend the toe-in be adjusted with the tires on the ground.

After the ball and swivel maintenance is complete, natural camber will be recovered by driving the tractor forward no less than one full revolution of the front wheels, and the steering wheel turned to set so the non-adjustable side pointing dead ahead. Level ground is assumed. Shut down the tractor, set the brakes, adjust the toe-in to spec

//greg//

 

[TSMART]

Will do. I think I remember someone in this forum saying to put grease in 2 cookie sheets, then set the front end tires down in the grease, then set the toe in. (or something like that)....so the toe in could be accurately derived while adjusting..

 

[greg_g]

I've had 4 Chinese tractors, did them all on either grass or gravel. Never had a problem with the tires not moving with the adjustment.

//greg//