bill8220
New member
need wiring diagram for 2006 jinma 204 alternator
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Chinese electricals - including alternators - don't have a good reputation in the tractor community. And I've never seen a wiring diagram exclusive to the alternator. Most common solution is to trash the OE alternator, and replace it with a Delco. Whether or not your 204 has a separate voltage regulator shouldn't matter. Most folks doing the alternator upgrade get a Delco with internal VR, then simply abandon the OE voltage regulator. From there, the only decision is which Delco (relative to how many amps you require).
//greg//
//greg//
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
I recommend one of the Delco 10Si or 12Si alternators. Internally regulated and just a couple wires to hook up and you're done. You'll need to install a voltage meter since your OEM ammeter isn't up to the current the Delco alternator will put out. I replaced my OEM with a Delco 12Si and haven't looked back. I now have all the capacity I need for my additional four work lights and my inverter for 110 volts. Charges my big battery in no time flat, too.
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
What are your plans? Do you realize that your alternator is TEFC - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ?
Are you planning on upping the 14 amp output? Do you realize the issues involved?
Virtually all off road construction and Ag machinery have TEFC alternators and there are many reasons for this.
If you are going to upgrade your charging system with a Delco Si alternator, consider these issues: As Rich mentioned, you will have to replace your ammeter with a voltmeter, and as Greg mentioned, deciding on the output rating of the new alternator. The output rating will determine the AWG size wire you will use between the "Bat" terminal and the starter solenoid. Some wiring modifications are necessary. Another issue is attaining rated output. To do this with a diesel engine will require a much smaller pulley than the OEM (# A202 - Alternator Pulley, Wide Groove (15/32-1/2") V-Belt alternator pulley, Delco and Ford, Agricultural and Industrial Applications). The other issue is alternator cooling: The 10Si alternators have an open faced fan (automotive use), and the 12Si alternators have a closed face fan (I chose the closed face fan for my upgrade because of the close proximity to the radiator fan - so they wouldn't fight each other. Both pull air from the rear and out the front). The mounting footprint of the Delco alternator is identical to the Chinese.
If you want to maintain the integrity of a TEFC alternator with increased output the only other solution is to purchase a new TEFC alternator, of which the prices are not very forgiving but you are getting what you pay for.
View attachment TEFC Alt.pdf
And as for getting a schematic for your alternator - no. However some other brands may be similar, if not identical. You be the judge.
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Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
Bob makes a very good point about the TEFC construction of the OEM alternator. If you're working in a dirty environment, you may well want to stick with a TEFC model so you're not grinding up a "open" alternator with grit and dirt. My tractor works in grass and trees with little loose soil to blow around so the 12Si is working fine for me so far. Even if it craps out after three years I can stll replace it easily and cheaply and still be ahead as I really need the additional capacity it provides to run my accessory lighting and such. I believe Tommy at Affordable Tractor Sales mentioned some time back that there are now some OEM alternators available with a bit higher capacity - I just don't recall how much more they put out.
I would think your engine manual or tractor manual would have a wiring diagram. My Jinma books have one, though it is a bit generic and tries to cover several different models at once, making it a bit confusing at first blush.
I have the superstition that equipment designers like to make the wiring as complex as possible, rather than as simple as possible. In essence all you need is a battery, an alternator to charge it and supply running current and bus bar to allow you to tie other loads onto the output. I just can't understand why they like to make it so complex when it can be really simple and work just as well or better. I remember years ago taking the wiring harness of of a motorcycle i had and completely rewiring it to be simple. I actually saved about two pounds of weight by simplifying the wiring and everything still worked fine. I've basically done the same thing on my tractor by getting rid of the OEM regulator and using the Delco integrated system. Now my fuse block is a simple affair with room to simplify even further as time permits.
I would think your engine manual or tractor manual would have a wiring diagram. My Jinma books have one, though it is a bit generic and tries to cover several different models at once, making it a bit confusing at first blush.
I have the superstition that equipment designers like to make the wiring as complex as possible, rather than as simple as possible. In essence all you need is a battery, an alternator to charge it and supply running current and bus bar to allow you to tie other loads onto the output. I just can't understand why they like to make it so complex when it can be really simple and work just as well or better. I remember years ago taking the wiring harness of of a motorcycle i had and completely rewiring it to be simple. I actually saved about two pounds of weight by simplifying the wiring and everything still worked fine. I've basically done the same thing on my tractor by getting rid of the OEM regulator and using the Delco integrated system. Now my fuse block is a simple affair with room to simplify even further as time permits.
cleat
Silver Member
Is there any aftermarket alternators available that have provisions for the vacuum pump ?
This is the only problem with having an emission engine. Is the vacuum pump really required ?
Cleat
This is the only problem with having an emission engine. Is the vacuum pump really required ?
Cleat
Hickory Creek
Bronze Member
Thanks to all above for some most informative information. I was thinking about changing out the alternator as it is original and look like heck. I think I will take it to a local shop and see if they think it is worth rebuilding. However, with most of the lights busted or not working, I really do not need more than about 15 amp. My old VW had a 30 amp generator and that ran all the lights and a 4 speed fan for A/C plus about 4 amps to hold clutch in on compressor. Oh heck, forgot, it also had two cooling motors on condenser coil, and those had a 25amp fuse in line. Must have used the battery a lot at night.
Thanks again, good info as usual.
Thanks again, good info as usual.
Bob Rooks
Elite Member
Yes, the vacuum pump is required IF you want to maintain compliance.
New Alternator Chevrolet w/Isuzu 3.9L 4BD2 w/Vac Pump
Note: The mounting foot on that model is different, but if you go to a knowledgeable parts house you should be able to get one easy enough, or just get one from Tommy or Phillip. Here is a Google search so your mouse can do the walking.
https://www.google.com/search?q=alternators+with+vacuum+pump&rls=com.microsoft%3Aen-us%3AIE-SearchBox&oe=&oq=alternators+with+vacuum+pump&gs_l=heirloom-serp.12..0i30.56859.56859.0.59390.1.1.0.0.0.0.78.78.1.1.0.ehm_pq_qwp%2Chmss2%3Dfalse...0...1.1.34.heirloom-serp..0.1.78.Tt3CfylKFWU
cleat
Silver Member
Thanks Bob;
Mine is working fine, I just may want to increase capacity some day.
Cleat
Mine is working fine, I just may want to increase capacity some day.
Cleat
Rich Waugh
Platinum Member
Many places don't enforce emissions compliance for off road equipment. If that's the case where you are, you may be able to get along without the vacuum pump, provided it isn't necessary to proper engine operation.
