Jimna 284 difficult starting - solenoid maybe?

[gpmorin]

Hi folks. New (used) Jinma 284 owner here. I've been going though things (lube, filters, etc.) I need to look into the wiring. First, it is difficult starting. Turning the ignition switch mostly gets a 'click', but the starter doesn't engage until I've done this several times. I've done some poking around the forum, and I'm thinking the solenoid could be a problem. I've replaced the battery terminals (both were corroded), and cleaned and tightened things. This hasn't helped.

Other electrical symptoms: gauges are sporadic (except ammeter). Headlights are good. Just hooked up horn wires (both were disconnected) and it works fine. When I rotate the switch to "H" there is a significant draw, so I assume the glow plugs are heating. Only one brake light works - I checked the other and found lots of corrosion and a low voltage at the wire (~3.4v).

Once started, it runs fine and looks like the battery is taking a charge.

Suggestions? Can the failure of the solenoid to fully engage a symptom of the other electrical issues, or am I buying one?

Thanks,

Gpm

 

[erj]

Don't worry about your solenoid yet. Let's start out checking the power supply. Put a voltmeter on the small terminal on the solenoid. See what voltage is getting to the solenoid through the key switch when you put the switch into the Start position.

 

[greg_g]

For clarification, it's important that you measure the voltage there as the solenoid and starter are engaged electrically by the keyswitch. This is best done with a helper. Set your meter to measure DC voltage, put one lead to ground, the other lead on the post (the one that's coming from the starter interlock under the left floorboard). Have helper crank engine with keyswitch, note voltage, report back

//greg//

 

[gpmorin]

We're onto something: ~9.1v when in "Start" position. Is the other end of this at the starter switch? I'll check there next...

 

[gpmorin]

Next, looks like I'll check before and after the 'starter interlock'.

 

[gpmorin]

Thank-you both for responding!

Checked the 'starter interlock'. First point here - this seems to lock out unless the brake is fully depressed. I normally don't use the parking brake here (flat land), and lazily depress the brake pedal & clutch (always start in neutral).

When I'm standing on the brake and clutch, it appears to turn over every time. When I don't depress the clutch and/or brake, I get the clicking and occasional turn over.

So - I can consistently start it now. Now I'm wondering why it'll start (inconsistently) without the pedals depressed. I suspect corrosion and/or shorts somewhere in the wiring, so I'll keep testing, cleaning, and replacing.

Again - thanks! This forum has already provided a wealth of information.

 

[SPIKER]

I dont believe there is ANY type of BRAKE interlock on the JMs unless it is something VERY new. The issue that is starts a bit better with the brake ON might have to do with the Brake light circuit adding some power back. This would be because of bad GROUNDS. First thing to look at is the Ground Terminal of the Battery (-) attaching points on the frame. Check to see if it is on the Engine Block, or on the Frame Rail to Engine Block connections. I added a Strap to tie my Frame to the Block when it was brand new. Pull out the bolt and de-rust it with a wire brush and make sure it is bare metal under the (-) battery connection on the frame. Use some Di-Electric Grease there that will help it. There are other locations that will have similar issues as you noted with the gauges and such. I went ahead and added grounding wires back from things like the fuel tank sender and that fixed many of the original issues I had in 2002.

The starter can be pretty easily rebuilt and there are a set of contacts inside the SOL that can corrode if it is left outside much (not sealed.)

Mark

 

[gpmorin]

Okay, thanks for the info. I thought it might be an interlock, but it makes sense that it's a brake light switch. I did change the battery terminals (battery end) and clean up the other ends. Dielectric grease everywhere. The negative off the battery goes to the frame. I think I might have multiple locations of corrosion causing problems... I'll keep going through things.