JD850 front wheel removal?

[DAY]

I can't get the front wheel off: I removed the six inner (larger) bolts. They go through to the green inner part of the wheel. Then I first pulled/yanked, then pounded the rim with a 5 lb hammer. Not any movement at ALL- like it was still bolted on. What am I doing wrong? (The wheel, as far as I know, has been on there for 30+ years)

 

[hosspuller]

Wheel rim is likely rusted to the hub. Make sure it's not been painted after the wheel was bolted to the hub. A bit of penetrating oil between the hub and wheel might help. It all else fails, remove the four bolts holding the hub cover on, remove the cotter pin and hub nut. Remove the wheel with stuck hub and place it in a press to separate it.

Hammering on the wheel rim might damage the axle bearings.

 

[RoyJackson]

You've removed everything that should be removed.

The wheel hub is centered (on the tractor's hub) by a raised section on the hub that fits into a matching counterbore on the wheel. It's a hand press fit...and should be easily removed by hand.

In your situation, the wheel is probably "rust welded" to the hub.

At this point, I suggest spraying a penetrating oil as best you can between the hub and wheel. Then (after a few hours) start tapping the rim again (rotate the wheel as you tap). You might need more then a 5 lb sledge hammer. Use some muscle and keep rotating the wheel as you hit it. (BTW, it might be advisable to use a short length of 2x2 or 2x4 against the wheel and strike that rather then the wheel.)
A puller might work if you pull the center cap off. I've never had to do that so I don't know what's behind that cap (probably a seal and a bearing).

When you get the wheel off, make sure you apply an anti-seize on the hub before putting the wheel back on.

 

[hosspuller]

Here's a picture of it...

 

[hosspuller]

You've removed everything that should be removed.

A puller might work if you pull the center cap off. I've never had to do that so I don't know what's behind that cap (probably a seal and a bearing).

As a last resort, you could apply heat to the wheel center...but try that as a last resort.

Don't apply heat to the wheel center unless you want to buy new bearings, seals and likely a new axle

 

[RoyJackson]

Don't apply heat to the wheel center unless you want to buy new bearings, seals and likely a new axle

Don't disagree with you there...however, I probably should have been more precise. You don't want the wheel cherry...or even discolored. Just enough heat to expand the wheel slightly while you're pulling.
We use to have to do this on Porsche wheels (occasionally) to get 'em loose. They were aluminum which expands more then steel.
That's also where I started using anti-seize in the hubs.

However, after recalling a post on the Safety forum of TBN about exploding wheels (after welding on them without removing the tire), I went back and edited that first post.

 

[DAY]

Thanks, all!
I downloaded the pic; thanks hosspuller, and Roy, it was probably "glued on" when it was repainted for resale.
It's a slow (24 hours) leak in a very old tire- I think I'll live with adding air when I use the tractor.

 

[Zebrafive]

I've loosened lugs about 1/2 turn then driven back and forth in the driveway (not road) to break wheels loose on my truck.

 

[RoyJackson]

I've loosened lugs about 1/2 turn then driven back and forth in the driveway (not road) to break wheels loose on my truck.

That's a good idea!!

 

[Villengineer]

have you tried one of the slime tire sealers? I've had good results using the stuff on slow leaks in the tires of everything from bikes to smaller tractor/implement tires.