JD400 leaking diesel

   / JD400 leaking diesel #1  

Brokk

Bronze Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2011
Messages
50
Location
Stow, MA
Tractor
John Deere JD400 Tractor
After having the starter rebuilt, replacing the ignition switch and then the 20amp breaker, I finally got my tractor running, only to discover diesel fuel hemorrhaging out from the engine. I pulled the cover off and found it was from the area where diesel return line hooks on. The black rubber T "boot" that holds it all together looks in great shape. No sign of cracking or dry rot. While I feel confident that I can replace the boot, I just wanted to ask here first to see if there could be some underlying issue that would explain the sudden failure.

Is there a common issue that would cause excessive pressure inside the boot?

Could it be that the line is clogged between two of them? (this is the first in the line and the others aren't leaking)

I know my luck. I'll order the new boots, replace them all (just to be sure) and after hours of wrestling with those stupid little clamps, the issue won't change a lick because the root cause is something else entirely.

Any advice on this problem?

I'm attaching some photos to show where the leak is coming from (bottom of boot).

IMG_20190103_153138.jpgIMG_20190104_143948.jpgIMG_20190104_144101.jpg
 
   / JD400 leaking diesel #2  
The rubber boots leaking are a very common problem.. feel confident in your repair..
It may be nec. to loosen the injectors & spin them slightly to get the boots to slide on easier..
& use some lube..
IF by chance they wont spin.. don't force them.. they bend easily if heavy force is applied.
Good luck.
 
   / JD400 leaking diesel
  • Thread Starter
#3  
The rubber boots leaking are a very common problem.. feel confident in your repair..
It may be nec. to loosen the injectors & spin them slightly to get the boots to slide on easier..
& use some lube..
IF by chance they wont spin.. don't force them.. they bend easily if heavy force is applied.
Good luck.

Glad to hear that.

I got the leaking one off, then put it back on, so that didn't seem too hard (although I will definitely go with the lube idea for the new ones).

Is there a particular tool that works better for manipulating those annoying wire clamps? It was bad enough just dealing with one boot, I'd rather have the right tool for the job to deal with all four of them.
 
   / JD400 leaking diesel #4  
Yes you need to replace all the boots. Those type clamps are easier to R&R when utilizing the type pliers that are designed for use with those type clamps. One style of pliers is shown below. If it was my tractor I would attempt to replace boots without disturbing injectors.
 

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   / JD400 leaking diesel
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Yes you need to replace all the boots. Those type clamps are easier to R&R when utilizing the type pliers that are designed for use with those type clamps. One style of pliers is shown below. If it was my tractor I would attempt to replace boots without disturbing injectors.

Sounds like my motto. "Try not to touch or disturb anything that appears to be working fine"

I'm confused. My tractor does not have Clic-R clamps. They are single wire clamps. Would that type of plier still be useful?

31s1IdsNoXL.jpg
 
   / JD400 leaking diesel #6  
Sounds like my motto. "Try not to touch or disturb anything that appears to be working fine"

I'm confused. My tractor does not have Clic-R clamps. They are single wire clamps. Would that type of plier still be useful?

View attachment 586188

This "wire clamp plier" is better


plier2.png
 

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   / JD400 leaking diesel #8  
Seeing its a "1x use".. why not just use a pair of channel lock pliers turned sideways.??
 
   / JD400 leaking diesel #9  
Or the last time I needed that tool, I drilled a dimple in the face of a regular old pliers, and with a chainsaw file, filed a groove out to the tip. Worked just fine, no slip-outs or necessary bad language.. :)
 
   / JD400 leaking diesel
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Or the last time I needed that tool, I drilled a dimple in the face of a regular old pliers, and with a chainsaw file, filed a groove out to the tip. Worked just fine, no slip-outs or necessary bad language.. :)

I love this idea!

Although being able to turn the surface to the correct direction you want to grab the clamp from is very useful, those surfaces are so loose they end up turning when you don't want them to. The other issue I had was the clamps want to twist and the "right pliers" were not sturdy enough. They end up deforming, which encourage the spring clamps to twist more. Not to mention, when they twist, they don't open all the way and become impossible to slip onto the boot. I never once used the "lock" feature. Getting them off was pretty easy, so no need to hold them open. Getting them on was so difficult and prone to twisting, that I could never take the chance of using the lock.

I got all the clamps off, and all the easier clamps on with the new pliers, but not the last two. In the end, I resorted to using a pair of vice grips which had a curved gripping surface. I was able to grab the spring clamp sideways and with the vice grips set to the right distance, hold the clamps fully open. Much swearing was involved.

I used lube, but then the boots were so slippery I was left thinking that wasn't the right choice in the end.

I was rather annoyed when I realized that 5 out of the 7 new boots I had shipped to me, still had rubber plugging the inside. They were like "hanging chads" right in the middle. I wasn't sure if they were intentional at first and had to check my old ones. It was quite frustrating trying to rip them out (rubber was still attaching them) while trying not to damage or deform the new boot.

Once I had the leaking boot off, I realized it showed signs of cracking in a couple places. Which is strange because I took that boot off before and carefully looked it over and hadn't seen that. I wonder if removing/installing it last time stressed it more.

I was finally able to get everything back together and fired up the beast. She finally was running again. I moved her around a bit, listening to the moans and creaks of the metal, just imagining what was going to break next. Did a hack job of turning the compost pile before parking it again in a better place for the winter.

Thanks for all the guidance everyone!
 

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