JD2520 shutting down

[PawPaDawg]

2009 JD2520....start...run ... Dies....hard to restart...restarts....runs...dies....tractor sits a couple days....starts right up...work it an hour...dies...hard to restart...runs 30 minutes...dies....hard restart...20 seconds it dies...o replaced fuel,oil and both air filters ( owner hadn't done it in 3 years) changed oil, coolant,flushed radiator, drained tank and checked for debris...cleared all fuel lines...electric pump is running... Thing ran great for 2 days straight....last week it only "hic-uped" twice in 8 hours...then today it ran great for 3 hours...then it progressively got worse to the point it would die as soon as the transmission was engaged.
O as I not have repair or tech manuals....I saw on here about a diode and how to test....was told it is fuel shut off....anyone have a check list I could use to trace this issue before having to pay dealer $350/he shop fee?
Need tractor BADLY before rainy season hits.
Thank you...oh you can also email me at...
nascar88rox at yah o.o dot com.
Thanks again...about to use c-4 on this thing.

 

[Wagtail]

G'day Mate and welcome to TBN from Downunder.

What you've described are the classic symptoms of a biological contamination (inaccurately called 'algae') in your diesel tank. Did you put an inspection camera down into the fuel tank before you drained it? Contamination, if you have it, will be a 1-2 inch bottom layer of what looks like fairy-floss (cotton-candy) mixed with phlegm. :yuck: A course of diesel 'biocide', wait 24 hours, drain the tank and then wipe it out using CHUX (J-Cloth)... it will come out as a thin brown film.

Add more 'biocide' to a fresh tank of diesel and run it through the whole system. If the 'biocide' says that it will break-down to growth to particulate level, all the better. If not, you'll probably need to change the fuel filter a couple of times until all is working as it should.

Enjoy the site... from wherever in the world you're from.

 

[3Lfarms]

The way I read your post is that you changed the fuel filter and then it ran fine for two days. Your issue sure sounds like a fuel delivery problem.

I agree you need to drain the tank and clean it and blow out the lines and replace fuel filter and water separator, then use fresh fuel and biocide.

The growth I see in my diesel cans looks like dark little goobers that sink to the bottom like water. They would be very difficult to see in a black fuel tank unless it was drained so you could wipe it all out with a lint free cloth.

 

[PawPaDawg]

How do you wipe out a plastic tank that you can not get your hand into?
I saw a post on here (can not find it now) someone had same exact problem ....someone posted a pic from repair manual of the diodes....seems his issue was not diode but more of an intermittent electrical issue.....am hoping someone may be able to point me to where the fuel shut off solienoid is.....as I am starting to feel it may be more if an electrical.issue as a bio issue as when I removes the fuel.lines,fuel filter,water seperator and drained tank the 1st time...I saw no evidence of anything other then possible water....and the fact the filters were 5 years old.
?????....

 

[Wagtail]

How do you wipe out a plastic tank that you can not get your hand into?

I used a pronged "grabber" tool, easily found at an auto supply shop. You then grab the CHUX (J-Cloth), insert it down into the tank and move it around. You'll probably go through several cloths until no more gunk/moisture comes out. A final look-see with an inspection camera will tell you if you got most of it.

Not knowing where you live, one of the best places to get diesel biocide is a shipyard... somewhere where they encounter water in a diesel tank often. Perhaps a company that services diesel generators? Australia/NZ has access to a fantastic product called "Fuel Doctor" It not only kills the biological infestation but then breaks it down to such a microscopic level that it passes through the filters to be burnt up in the engine.

 

[PawPaDawg]

I appreciate all the advice...however...when I drained the tank....infused a flash light and all I saw was the bottom of the tank...no "sludge"....no leaves....no debris....nothing .... Just a shiny black bottom....when I blew out the fuel lines I saw nothing....no chunks....no debris....I blew them into a white hand towel I bought at dollar tree....(as I wanted something white and cheap).....I removed the fuel filter and shook it out....nothing....I cut the filter open for further inspection....again I saw nothing.....so I replaced everything.....filled the new filter with fuel prior to installation......when I had the electronic fuel pump off I got to wondering if perhaps it was weak....so I hooked up supply line and electrical....turned on key and it just pushed fuel out...not in a small stream and no higher then the fuel line....changed oil and filter....changed air filter....started it....ran ok...had a few "hic-ups"....now when you run the tractor and it warms up...say about an hour....the stalls get more frequent until it starts up and as soon as you put it in gear it dies....I also noticed when it died it puffs out grey/white smoke.
Is why I am wondering if this may be an electrical issue where as when a contact gets warm/hot it cause something in the fuel system to shut down?
Is why I am need of a schematic that shows me where all fuel components are located for further testing.
I was told the electrical pump is rated at 4-7 psi.
???????
Faulty....
key switch?
Solenoid on fuel pump?
Fuel diode?
Fuel relay?
Fuel shut off?
As you can see I have tried all I know...cleaning blowing out tanks and lines changing filters....oh...I also removed the water separator and cleaned it out as well....wish I had the hind though to snap a pic so as to show what I meant by the dirt in the bottom of the separator...seems someone had tried to remove it before as it was on hand tight.

 

[07wingnut]

Pardon me if this has been mentioned. You could be pulling a vacuum in the fuel tank, after running for a while and the cap not venting correctly. Try running with the cap loose enough to allow air entry. If your problem goes away, buy a new cap.

 

[PCABE5]

Find where your throttle cable connection to the injection pump is and look behind it. That's where the shutoff solenoid is.

The electric fuel transfer pump test is 3.4oz (minimum) in 15 seconds. It should not be more than 5.4psi if you put a pressure gauge on it.