JD LX178 Hydrostatic

OntarioCanada · Jan 20, 2008

I just picked up a 94 LX178 this week and along with all of the other maintenance, would like to change the fluid in the hydrostatic. At the lowest point on the hydro, there is a bolt head, however it is the same size as all of the other ones used to fasten the two casing halves together, so I will not assume that it is a drain plug. I'll probably just suck out all of the old stuff

Anyway, searching online and on othe sites has left me high and dry. Even on the JohnDeere.com site there is a blank in the column for hydraulic oil in thir "Oil Types and Capacities" table.

Anybody??

Thank you in advance

RWEST · Jan 22, 2008

Have you checked with a J-D dealer? Lacking a manual, that would be my first choice.

OntarioCanada · Jan 23, 2008

I asked while in the dealer the other day, and the lady in the parts department spent a few minutes on the computer and eventually said "It looks like it takes 10W30".

I went to the TufTorq website and they mention that 10W30 is the lubricant to be used. Before that though I sent off an email to John Deere, and got a reply yesterday:

Thank you for contacting our Web site. To prevent contamination in the hydraulic system we recommend not to drain or change hydrostatic transmission fluid. The hydrostatic transmission fluid capacity is 3.4 L (7.2 pt). If fluid level is low we recommend that you use SAE 10W30 engine oil with API classifications of SE, CC or CD to bring fluid level to the top mark.

If we can be of further assistance, please call the Customer Contact Center at 1-800-537-8233. Our center is open 8:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. EST, Monday - Friday and 9:00 a.m. - 3:00 p.m. EST, Saturday.

So, looks like I'll be using the synthetic which I use in my vehicles.

jeepcoma · Jul 12, 2010

Old thread, but I'm also wondering about changing the fluid in my LX178. Is it really that bad to change the oil in these things? I can see them not wanting people to open the system for routine changes every year if it's not necessary and will just cause more problems, but any fluid that's 18 years old is about due for a change.

The service manual confirms 3.4L of 10W-30 (or 5W-30 if operating in colder temperatures), and there is also a bleeding procedure. There is an internal filter as well though I can't seem to find a part number or actually spot it on any of the diagrams.

Should I go ahead and drain the old fluid to check the condition of the unit? (This is my main goal because I'm trying to figure out whether this tractor is worth spending money on or if it's a ticking time bomb that I'll be wasting time and money on.) Or is JD correct in that the oil never needs to be changed, and I'm just asking for trouble by trying to fix something that doesn't need fixing?

davkir · Jul 12, 2010

You might check with Tuff Torq. I think they now recommend 5w-50 synthetic for most of their transaxles.

jeepcoma · Jul 12, 2010

I threw caution to the wind and went ahead and did it (after all, you never learn how something works until you learn how it breaks, right?). I took advantage of an Advance Auto oil change special and picked up 5 quarts of Mobile 1 5w-40 and Mobile 1 oil filter for $30 which happens to be just perfect for changing both the engine and transmission oil. According to the service manual it can take up to 10 minutes of bleeding time before the real wheels start to spin but mine worked straight away.

After changing the hydro oil, I suppose I can see why JD recommends not changing it. For one thing, the fluid that came out was in great shape and probably didn't need to be changed after all. Secondly, it took a looooong time to refill the case and let the air bubbles come out. I can see Joe Schmoe being in a rush, dumping a quart in and seeing the level full without waiting for it to settle, then buttoning it back up and then trying to drive off down 2.5 quarts. Third, if it can sometimes take 10 minutes to properly bleed the system, the average owner might not do so thorough a job and then complain about transmission performance. And fourth, it's best done as a two-person job so it's not exactly a solely DIY operation.

Regardless, I'm glad I did it as I noticed no funky smells or particles or metal flakes in any of the fluids, so I'm reasonably assured the engine and transmission are in good shape and this is a tractor worth holding on to for several more years without it turning into a basket case.