JD LX-6 Tailwheel Fail

[N80]

I've got a 6' John Deere light duty rotary cutter. It is at least 15 years old (I bought it used over 10 years ago). The zerk fitting for the tail wheel axle/bushing is situated where I could never get a grease gun on it. So it never got lubed. Lately, surprise, surprise, it has been squealing a lot. So, I decided to remove the axle bolt and bushing, remove the wheel, lube it all up and put a longer zerk fitting in it. Well, I removed the nut from the axle bolt and started to tap it out. It started to slide out but then wouldn't go any further. So I proceeded to pound on it with a hammer.....because nothing solves a problem caused by negligence better than blind application of brute force. The result is that the threads on the bolt are buggered up and the bolt still won't come out.

Any idea why this bolt won't come out? The bolt may have seized to the bushing (sleeve around the axle bolt) because it appears that the bolt itself has been turning with the wheel. But, the bushing still slides from side to side on the axle bolt. It was also hot at the time so maybe that had something to do with it.

Anyway, if I can get the bolt out this will be a simple repair. It not, I will probably have to take it to the JD place and probably spend a good bit of money.

Here is the only diagram I could find from JD. Basically it is the two forks, the wheel with a stainless steel bushing in it and the axle bolt. I don't see any other parts.

http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMW51358_19/gif/W05046.gif

 

[George2615]

I had that happen also. Due to lack of lube on mine when I bought it used the bolt had either rusted or was bent inside the sleeve (bushing) inside the wheel. I used a sawzall between each side of the forks and wheel to cut the bolt off. Then took the wheel in and set it on the vise and used a punch to drive the bolt out. It came out with the sleeve so then had to heat the sleeve and drive the remains of the bolt out of the sleeve. The sleeve was still good so I cleaned it up on a wire wheel and put it back in the wheel with a new greased up bolt. Reinstalled in the forks and replaced the grease fitting.

 

[pmsmechanic]

Obviously it's a female bolt as a male bolt would never be so stubborn.

What I would do is cut the bolt off on each end and then slightly spread the forks and slide the wheel out. Once yo have it out then take it to a press and work on it there. Probably the bolt is rusted to the bushing so if it doesn't move with moderate force then leave the force on the bolt and soak it in your favourite penetrating oil. Lots of times leaving things sit with pressure on them can make the most stubborn bolts move.

If you can get the bushing and the bolt out of the wheel then I would lightly heat the bushing ( a small propane torch is good enough) and apply candle wax to the heated parts. I don't know why but a bit of heat and candle wax flows through rust. If you get this far then a hammer and punch should be able to finish the job.

 

[N80]

Excellent advice guys. Will let you know how it turns out.

 

[N80]

I also noticed that because the bolt was spinning it wallowed out the bolt hole in one of the forks so that it is oval shaped. That defect will just have to remain as replacing the fork assembly requires cutting the spindle cap off, removing the fork assembly, buying a new fork assembly and then welding a new spindle cap back on.

 

[George2615]

Rather than replace the fork you could weld a grade 8 washer with the proper diameter bolt hole over the elongated hole then install the new bolt. Been there / done that.

 

[N80]

I don't weld but I know someone who does so I'll definitely go that route.

 

[N80]

Okay, sawed the bolt off, with a hacksaw because I don't have a sawzall, yet. Huge pain in the rear. Spread the forks and got the whole assembly out. The sleeve bushing was seized on the body. Dowsed it in liquid wrench and wailed on it with a hammer. Nothing. Heated it up, with a heat gun, because I don't have a torch and it actually loosened it up and after a lot more pounding got the bolt out. The bushing looks fine so I'll just replace the bolt and its nut and should be good to go one I get my B-I-L to weld a washer on the fork.

So thanks again for the advice guys. Saved me a bunch of money.

However, one of the times I hit the bolt a tiny sliver flew off and embedded in my finger. No big deal. But it sure puts a point on wearing proper eyewear.

 

[N80]

Oh, the real source of the problem? The zerk fitting. It is so small and so short I could never get the grease gun on it. Ridiculous placement if you ask me. I'm going to try to find a longer one or one that is angled.

 

[George2615]

Oh, the real source of the problem? The zerk fitting. It is so small and so short I could never get the grease gun on it. Ridiculous placement if you ask me. I'm going to try to find a longer one or one that is angled.

View attachment 479884

HF sells an assortment of zerk fittings straight, 45's and 90's in different sizes fairly cheap.
I figured safety was a given and didn't remind you. As you found out you should have worn safety glasses and gloves.