JD L130 - spark, gas, but won't stay running

wyliecyoti · Sep 15, 2013

Long time lurker - posting my first question-- yippeee!!!

I haven't ran the L130 for 6-7 months, was going to do the transaxle upgrade, but other priorities came up. The last time I ran it, I used seafoam treated gas and ran it until it starved itself. I put the battery on charge and put two gallons of fresh gas in the tank and then tried to start it about 2 hrs into the charge. No luck.

I pulled the air filter and poured a couple caps of fuel into the opening. My thought was if I get it running, it would prime itself and I would be done. After adding the caps of fuel, it worked, but as soon as the fuel was no longer available, it died. Ok, easy fix, not getting enough fuel. I removed the inline filter and drained some gas from the tank into the catch can. Replaced the inline and then traced the fuel line up to the black puck that has three gas lines attached. (1 from filter, 2 to the carb, 3 wraps back around drivers side engine compartment). Fuel is coming out of the part that goes to the carb. (BTW - what is technical term for the puck??). I traced the line down to the carb inlet and there was fuel. I cranked the engine and the fuel flows in unison with the rotation of the engine.

I proceeded to carb clean the exterior and interior of the carb. Engine turns over fine (until the starter gets hot from trying too many times consecutively), it just won't stay running unless I pour fuel into the carb. I researched problem(s) on here and checked the vent on the gas cap (removed, tried to start, same thing), I will be replacing the inline fuel filter tomorrow. Short of removing the carb and doing a rebuild on it, I am just curious if anyone as any words of wisdom.

After I get it running, my plan is to do the oil change in the transaxle .. and see how that works. If not, I may move up to a larger tractor, one with an FEL so I can play dirtboy on my little 5 acre parcel I purchased here recently.

Thanks!
Wylie

Sysop · Sep 15, 2013

I'd bet it's the filter. Seafoam can break down the varnish/residue from the gasoline from the inside of the fuel system, it's what it is made to do. Running it dry likely left quite a bit of contaminants in the filter to harden back up. Generally you want to change your fluids, filters, and a new spark plug after using Seafoam.

Good luck and welcome to TBN!

deerseeker001 · Sep 15, 2013

same here.

jinman · Sep 18, 2013

The "puck" is the fuel pump. It has a diaphragm inside that works off of crankcase pulsing pressure. If you turn over the engine and fuel comes out of the hose going to the carb, you do not have a filter problem. Your problem is internal to the carburetor. My guess is you have one of two problems:

1. Fuel cutoff solenoid not working. Put the transmission in neutral (center pedal for HST) and the PTO off with the parking brake set. Turn on the key to the run position. You should hear a click as the solenoid energizes. The solenoid is on the bottom of the carburetor, so you can unplug and plug it in with the ignition on and you should hear and feel it engage. If it is not engaging you are not supplying gas to the carburetor jets.

2. The fuel float needle valve may be stuck. The needle valve allows fuel from the "puck" pump to fill the fuel float bowl. When the float rises, it shuts off the needle valve and stops fuel so the carburetor does not overflow with raw gas. Sometimes the original plastic needle valves will stick because the rubber tip gets sticky and the plastic and float don't weigh enough to unstick the valve. You probably need to clean and/or replace the needle valve if it's rubber tip is deteriorated by ethanol gas and sticking shut. You might get lucky with a good cleaning too.

If you can pour fuel into the carb and the engine starts plus you have fuel to the carb from the pump, then you either have a faulty cutoff solenoid or defective float needle valve. You said you cleaned the carb, so I'm assuming all the passages are clean and that only leaves the two things above. Is your engine a Kohler or Briggs & Stratton? They both work similar and have similar carburetors, but I'm just curious.

jenkinsph · Sep 19, 2013

All I can add is that my L130 used to have to turn over too much to get cranked up. Found the fuel pump was weak and replaced it with a small electric pump from NAPA about $30. Now I turn the key on until I hear it pressure up then bump the starter and it fires up. Saves lots of wear and tear on the starter imo.

Jim is spot on about the carb and fuel cut off assembly and SeaFoam has been a good product too.

wyliecyoti · Nov 9, 2013

so sorry for not posting a follow up message sooner. Fuel filter is fine, fuel pump is fine. I removed the solenoid from the bottom of the carb and examined the needle. It was solid, no movement. I sprayed it with carb cleaner, WD 40, and still had no movement. I took a small hammer and tapped it and BAM, the needle was free moving. Upon further inspection, there was rust on the part of the needled that wasn't exposed. So I cleaned it off with a brass brush, reinstalled everything for the 19th time, turned the key and she fired up and stayed running. Started and stopped numerous times over a 30 minute period. No hesitation in starting and no backfire when shutting off. I was so happy, I cut my neighbors 3/4 acre yard. I would have done my yard (1/2 acre), but I had just pushed mowed it 2 days prior ... LOL.

Thanks for the advice and recommendations. Will continue to be a lurker and read your guys wealth of knowledge inputs.

jenkinsph · Nov 10, 2013

Thanks for getting back to us. If I ever get around to rebuilding the tranny I may use my L130 to mow my lawn and save hours on the x749. The one thing that is better about the new mowers are the easy to remove/replace decks. Having a dedicated mower for my personal lawn with sharp blades could be handy.