It's me on my backhoe soapbox again.
IMHO (and experience) a 3pt backhoe is only for extremely light duty, the 3 point hitch is for lifting and dragging not for being jerked around all over the place. If your outriggers and the front bucket are not on hard flat ground the weight isn't transferred properly and even the limited design of the 3point backhoe's stress design can't be met.
Even the typical frame mount ones are lacking. The ones I've seen attach quickly and easily, which can translate into a weak system. They pin on to the front loader support and just hang on the lower 3pt link attaching pegs. I went to a frame mount on my Ford after diasters with a 3 point hoe. Soon after installation I saw how the frame mount was designed and I set about to modify it. If you can move your hoe around from a stopped position, and your tractor case (eng/trans) doesn't move instanteously, with no movement in the pins, you may have a problem! One pin or bolt can hold a tremendous load if it isn't being BANGED into constantly by the fact that it's not a tight fit. Initially with my frame mount I was having the bolts that hold the lower link pegs loosen up, the loader frame to the tractor loosen up and could see the backhoe frame move without the tractor moving.
I added a huge bolt to the front loader to backhoe frame leg on each side, rebraced the loader frame posts to my 4-post canopy frame, and added adjustable length links to my 3 point legs, they push down, and one I added to the center 3point mount pulls up on the center of the backhoe.
It is not as quick to remove, but it made the backhoe and loader a pretty tight unit. I have used it AS a backhoe, i.e. positioning and repositioning the tractor where I need it using the hoe, which is death on a 3point. Lots of stumping. Result is NOTHING NOTED in about 10 years. I consider this a marvelous improvement over a number of busted items previously.
When I redid the frame I also shortened it so the hoe sits as close to the tractor as possible. Typically the hoes sit way back so you can use the PTO to run a pump. My Ford puts out 7.8 gpm, not like my
L35's 17.3, but good enough.
If you can do away with the PTO pump and move your backhoe closer, you'll be happier with the result. The departure angle (line drawn from the bottom of the back tires to the rear lowest part of the backhoe was increased so I don't have the backhoe dragging it's bottom when I'm out in the rough stuff.
I also believe the leverage on the tractor is lessened with the hoe closer in.
Oh and before I forget, to anyone with a hoe, look under the center swing. Some hoes have a grease fitting sticking out asking to get broken off. I had a little piece of pipe welded on to protect it...of course AFTER it was so much fun getting the broken off piece out! /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif
If you are going to be using the hoe in soft ground, consider some bolt on "bog shoes" a big flat piece of deck plate you can attach to your outriggers so the legs don't sink in. They will ensure the tractor is protected stress wise, as the weight will be on the legs, allow you to level the tractor more easily on sloped or one-soft-ground-side situations, and besides, who wants to stick the end of that hydraulic cylinder down in the goop?
And if you are new to hoes, get a grease gun and use it after every 8 hours of hoe use. One pump is usually enough if you are consistant. More if the hoe has been in water and you are pushing water out. Wipe off the excess otherwise the dirt will start living on your hoe. When you grease the hoe vary your positions, push the ground one time, othertimes not, sometimes dipper extended othertimes not etc. I've seen professionals grease one shot in each position each day. I'm a pretty light user though compared to the pro's.
Dig on!
(I'll be happy if somewhere someone avoids any of my "learning" experiences!)