Tx Jim
New Member
Lack of sufficient hole for cotter key when adjusting nut is in place suggests that linings aren't within spec's &/or toggles(item 19) & dogs(item 18) have too much wear. Also gear could have moved in clutch operating sleeve.
Update: I found there are in fact two sets of holes in the toggles for the cotter pins. (Kind of tough to see, but you can make out both holes in these pics.) When I tighten the adjusting nuts to where they need to be they are past where the first set of holes are effective, but not the second set of holes, so perhaps things are still in spec after all.Lack of sufficient hole for cotter key when adjusting nut is in place suggests that linings aren't within spec's &/or toggles(item 19) & dogs(item 18) have too much wear. Also gear could have moved in clutch operating sleeve.
Well, I'm sorry this is being so difficult. Those old two cylinder JD clutches are usually a afternoon job at most. I'll bet when you get it right you will find it has been something simpleUpdate: I found there are in fact two sets of holes in the toggles for the cotter pins. (Kind of tough to see, but you can make out both holes in these pics.) When I tighten the adjusting nuts to where they need to be they are past where the first set of holes are effective, but not the second set of holes, so perhaps things are still in spec after all.
Next question: When I adjusted the nuts to where the clutch snapped in and out nicely, I was still able to turn the pulley (with a little effort) by hand. I thought I saw in a YouTube video about adjusting these clutches that with the clutch engaged, the pulley shouldn’t be able to be turned by hand. Does that sound right? It was the same both with the tractor in gear and in neutral.
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Well, I'm sorry this is being so difficult. Those old two cylinder JD clutches are usually a afternoon job at most. I'll bet when you get it right you will find it has been something simple
But I think you are on the right track asking about the pulley being able to be turned by hand. I will check mine tomorrow both in gear and not...and with the clutch disengaged and snapped in both. I want to make sure I have it right, and it's dark and tractor under a tarp right now.
I used to set mine so that the snap-in was very positive and took a little bit of force to snap it in. But for the last ten or twenty years I've been running it so that it snaps in very easily. Seems to work just as well.
Anyway I'll check mine in those ways tomorrow. Then we'll know the answer to one question at least.
rScotty