JD 5101E questiions

[l sloan]

Hi

First time poster and I have 3 questions about my new 5101E.
1. It is difficult to manually engage the front wheel drive and even more difficult to disengage it. Is this typical? Tractor still under warranty and if something needs attention I'll get on it. I usually let the clutch out and roll the tractor a few inches then it goes ahead and shifts into or out of FWA.
2. You have to hold the remote hydraulic lever forward (or backward) when extending or retracting the hydraulic cylinder on an implement. Most tractors I've owned, even a mid-60's JD 3020 and 4020, the lever would stay forward or back by itself until the cylinder reached the end of its stroke then 'pop' back to the center position automatically by itself. Is this how this machine is supposed to be?
3. I'm second guessing myself about adding calcium chloride to the rear tires for ballast. It absolutely needed rear ballast; the back end would come right up off the ground with a big round bale on the front end loader on any type of uneven ground and the back end barely stayed down on level ground before ballast. These are 1200-1400# bales. According to dealer I could have added 2 100# weights to each rear wheel ( @ $200 per weight) for a total of 400# ($800), but I didn't think this would be enough weight. Any thoughts?

All in all its a great tractor, I realize the M series has more bells and whistles, but the 5101E is perfect for my needs. Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

[Zebrafive]

For #2 check the SCV and see if it has a selecter knob to put the valve in detent so it works like your 4020 did. Being an E for economy tractor it may not have this feature. Owners manual should tell too. If you were using the valve for a loader you would NOT want it to detent and go to full cylinder travel.

For #3 I doubt 400lbs would be enough. Do you have a manual for your loader? It will give ballasting recommendations. It might give the option of only tire weight or a combination of tire and rear 3pt ballast. Calcium Chloride will be cheaper than wheel weights, but would be my last choice. RimGuard or windshield washer fluid would be less corrosive.

 

[Zebrafive]

Pictured 2030 has two 110lb wheel weights per side, loaded tires (wish they were not calcium chloride), and I have to use rear ballast on the 3pt hitch to use the full capacity of the loader.

 

[AGGIE00]

1- Yes you almost always have to be moving to engage front wheels and moving without a load to disengage. ie. not in a bind such as turning or moving in loose soil or pulling a load.

2- Yes you have to hold or feather the lever, but only achieve float by pushing lever all the way forward.

3- I have one weight on each side and loaded tires and still need at a minimum my boxblade or at best my 2400# counterwieght to feel comfortable lifting a full bucket above the cab.