JD 4400 HST won't start no panel lights

[Alabama Brownneck]

I have a 2000 JD 4400 that I recently purchased. Yesterday I used it to move some firewood and a few other mundane chores, which required me shutting down and starting up the tractor at least nine or ten times. After the work was down I shut it down and called it a night. Today I went to start it and nothing. I turn the key and the dash panel does not light up and I hear no click from the relay. Naturally I checked the battery which is fully charged,even still I removed it and had it tested at the local autozone ( tested good). So apparently I'm not getting power when the key is in the on position... must be a blown fuse for the ignition switch is what I thought....nope fuse is fine. Then it must be the start relay....nope start relay is fine. So now I'm stuck and don't know what to check next.

What would prevent the dash lights and relays from energizing when the key is turned to the on position?

 

[walter boatwright]

I have a 2000 JD 4400 that I recently purchased. Yesterday I used it to move some firewood and a few other mundane chores, which required me shutting down and starting up the tractor at least nine or ten times. After the work was down I shut it down and called it a night. Today I went to start it and nothing. I turn the key and the dash panel does not light up and I hear no click from the relay. Naturally I checked the battery which is fully charged,even still I removed it and had it tested at the local autozone ( tested good). So apparently I'm not getting power when the key is in the on position... must be a blown fuse for the ignition switch is what I thought....nope fuse is fine. Then it must be the start relay....nope start relay is fine. So now I'm stuck and don't know what to check next.

What would prevent the dash lights and relays from energizing when the key is turned to the on position?

You may have quoted the problem. check the ignition switch. The vibration and moist humid air can damage the contacts in a switch.

 

[Alabama Brownneck]

ahh ! you're prolly right, will check that tommorow....
thank you

 

[Egon]

Your's seem to be a very common problem amongst the 4200, 4300 and 4400 models.

From experience start with checking both ends of the battery cables and the cable itself. Then move on to all the shutdown switches and also all control lever positions. Check and reseat all fuses. Slap the left side of the instrument cluster and then give it a try. No click; check wiring diagram and replace thermistor. Only a ten dollar item. Rap on the side of the fuel solenoid. Pull th ignition switch and clean all the contacts as well as giving it good shot of WD40. Try pumping the primer pump. Warm up the fuel filter, solenoid and fuel pump with a heat gun. Boost with a starting aid. Still no start? Have a Beer or more and get a good nights sleep.

Try it again after a few days and you may be rewarded with a loud click when the key gets turned. Think you have it fixed?? Wait a few weeks and go thru the whole procedure again.

That sorta describes my experiences so far. Right now we are in the loud click stage for ??

If I was knowledgable in electrical diagrams and could properly use a meter that approach may be a whole lot better.

Did I mention -- jiggle the wiring harness.

 

[CCWKen]

Then it must be the start relay....nope start relay is fine.

By this, do you mean you can jump the starter solenoid and the engine starts?

 

[Alabama Brownneck]

By this, do you mean you can jump the starter solenoid and the engine starts?

No I didn't jump the solenoid. I did the continuity test on the relay

 

[Alabama Brownneck]

checked the cables they seem to be fine (power and ground)
got the repair manual and did the continuity checks on the key switch and the relays and the fuses
checked voltage at the battery 12.7, starter 12.7, F1 fuse 12.7, and #1 position at key switch connector 12.7
cleaned the crap and corrosion off the key switch contacts with electrical cleaning fluid
re-installed the key switch .. fingers crossed.. and nuthin!
Checked voltage at key switch connector again with key in off position 12.7, the at run position 0.0034! don't know what causing that. The key switch passes the continuity test, but I know without the correct voltage going out to the crank circuit this thing will never start
Will have to keep digging. Surely there a JD guy out there who knows how to resolve this

 

[Woody65]

I have a 4300 and this happened to me last year. It wound up being the thermistor. It's a common problem in these models. The good thing is that it's an inexpensive fix.

 

[Alabama Brownneck]

cool... will give that a try

thanx

 

[Alabama Brownneck]

I think I have this problem resolved:cool2: CORROSION!....... corrosion corrosion corrosion..... being an 2000/1999 model tractor that was at a hunting camp, it almost goes withuot saying that the maintenance on this thing was "sparse"
While ringing out the main harness in accordance with the schematic not only did I find tons of disabled safety features, also about 80% of all the electrical connectors and terminals are badly corroded.
Which explains why this problem was intermittent.
So here is my first complaint about the construction of this tractor. The electrical is crap!! It's a tractor made for rough and tumble but very few of the connectors and terminals are environmentally sealed. (a recipe for owner head scratchin)
ALL of the terminal connectors needs to cut off and new ones crimped on. Because even though I have the thing up and running (for now) this is a situation that will only get worse with time.
About 60 bucks worth of terminals,some weather proof connectors,corrosion inhibiting compound and a lot of cussin should do it
will prolly have to reduce the price on the cuss words to stay in that 60$ budget:laughing: