JD 2210 MMM Cutting Height

[StopherJ]

This is my first post, but have been reading for a while and decided on the JD 2210. Got a lot of good info and ideas from this forum and the posts before I bought.

Bought the JD 2210 in June, 2004. Only have about 10 hours so far with loader work.

With the MMM I noticed that the cutting height seemed to be at a "scalping" cut even though the MMM adjustment knob was adjusted to a desired cut height. At a 5" cut setting the mower is cutting at about a 2" actual cut (and yields a nice cut albeit not at the set height). I normally would cut at about 2 1/2" to 3" height, so with this difference in the adjustment vs. actual it will not cut as desired. Have looked at the installation manual, the step-up, the front to back level, etc and no apparent reason for the low cut. Has anyone had an issue with the cutting height setting or any ideas?

My wife said I paid enough for the tractor, so why am I trying to figure it out, let the dealer. Answer: "just because", its a guy thing with the "tools". Called the dealer who is going to pick up the tractor and take care of it, but it is a trip for them (140+ miles round trip on their nickel, but they are willing to do) and I would take care of it if I could.

Thanks

 

[JDFANATIC]

StopherJ,

As you have figured out, the dial doesn't correlate to inch cut height. I cut my lawn on 5-1/2 and that seems to work fine. Hope you enjoy the 2210 as much as I do! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Gatorboy]

Adjust the deck so that when you measure from a flat surface to your blades it is 3". What the number on the knob says is immaterial.

 

[Hambone]

There has been lots of post on the 2210 MMM. I readjusted mine so it would raise higher. It is an easy adjustment using the arm that goes back to the 3PH. I raised the 3PH all the way and then cranked the arm so the deck was just below the stops for the MMM arms. Then got the tape measure out and measured the blades were I wanted to cut and made a mark on the decal. There have been some get new decals as they were not put on properly.

 

[megotatractor]

I had the same trouble but mine was off by about an inch and a half from the knob. I tightened all three adjustments, you know, the U-hangar in front and the two deals on the sides. then VERY IMPORTANT to adjust the lift arm so it has proper clearance or the arm will be bent very easily. (don't ask) in hindsight a new decal would have been easier. I now set my wheels so that there are two holes showing on top and set the dial at 4 to match and I get a very nice 3 and 1/2 inch cut.

 

[djsch]

This CAN be set properly but it takes a little time and as others have said, you must be careful NOT to bend the lift rod that goes back to the 3 point. Ignore your wife. Don't ask the dealer. They don't have a clue. My dealer tried to set it up and then ordered me a new lift rod because they did it wrong. When the new lift rod came in, I did it myself and my dial is now within 1/4". I could get it closer but I'm just too lazy.

The little brassy colored links under the belly are the key to the puzzle for the dial to be correct. However if the links are too short and/or the lift rod is too long, the rod gets bent. Here's how to do it without bending things.

First step is to make that lift rod as short as possible. It actually tells you in the setup manual how long it should be - something like 24.5". If you make it as short as possible, then you'll be very close to the proper length.

Now that you have the rod length correct (or very close), start adjusting the deck lift links under the belly. Each time you adjust, you have to:

start the tractor,
raise the mower all the way up,
turn the dial fully counter-clockwise to "Install",
lower the mower all the way to the ground
(gage wheels must be all the way up),
shut off the tractor,
remove the links
adjust them a bit (keep them equal to each other),
put them back on,
start the tractor,
lift the mower all the way up,
set the dial,
lower the mower to the stop,
shutoff the tractor,
measure the result.

During this process, you MUST be VERY careful not to get the lift arms too short or ... you guessed it ... you bend the lift rod again. A few repetitions of this and you'll have your dial reading right.

Now that the dial is reading right, you can make the final adjustment.

Raise the deck all the way up and shut off the engine. Adjust the lift rod (going to the 3 pt hitch, until the lift arms under the belly are just touching (or not quite touching) the frame. Tighten the lock nuts on the lift rod and the links and you're all done.

It took me about 15-20 minutes to set mine up. Once you have it set, it should stay that way forever ... except that it might change a bit as the tips of the blades wear off.

Good luck (and be careful)! Let me know how it turns out.

Dave

2210 - 1 year