JD 2210 FEL

[bmclernon]

Last evening after mowing I decided to clean the underside of the mower deck. Wet mowing conditions so far this spring had caused the mower to take on quite a bit of dirt/mud/grass residue. The procedure is to slide the mower (62C) out from under the tractor then use the FEL and chain to hoist mower so I can get it with pressure washer.

The FEL would not support the weight of the mower in the raised position after I shut down the engine. My solution was to keep the engine running while the deck was suspended.

Is this normal? The clock just turned over 25 hours. I did this procedure once before and do not remember the FEL slipping down with the weight of the mower deck.

Thanks,

 

[SteveH_CT]

This could be far to obvious, and I feel silly mentioning it - but have you checked the hydro fluid level? I know on mine, when the fluid is down the hydraulics operate differently. If the level is fine it sounds like a seal at some point in the line is allowing fluid to leak by. With so few hours I'd be surprised by that if it was the case.

 

[bmclernon]

I'm having trouble determining the status of the tranny fluid level. The inspection window appears to be a solid amber in color. You can not detect a level indication. Is the fluid level above the glass or below.

 

[bigpete]

Hi, Mac.

Double check your manual, but I believe the glass should be between 3/4 and completely full of fluid with the rockshaft dropped and the loader arms lowered with the bucket rolled out (as opposed to curled).

The loader will leak down under load with the engine off (hyd pumps not pumping), which is normal. However, it shouldn't leak down dangerously fast. If you are sure it is behaving differently than it was when you first bought it, you should get in touch with the dealer or ask a question on the Deere support site.

 

[wickman]

I just turned over 30 hours on my 2210 and I too notice a bit more bleed down than I remember from when the tractor was first delivered. When turned off the 3pt always drops slowly over a few days. I've never really thought anything of this. However, I mow with the FEL attached quite a bit and while mowing I'll have to 'curl' the bucket every so often because it tends to 'uncurl' even while the tractor if running. I don't think this is normal but maybe it is.

As for cleaning the deck... is their a right way to attach chains to keep the deck balanced while hoisting? I've yet to attempt hoisting mine for cleaning. I just usually reach under with some scraper and get the big stuff. Last year at the end of season I jacked the deck up on blocks to really get it clean.

Thanks,

Wickman

 

[755inNY]

<font color="blue"> As for cleaning the deck... is their a right way to attach chains to keep the deck balanced while hoisting? </font>

I lift my deck with 2 straps placed just inside the loader arms. With 2 straps you don't need to worry about balancing.
I lower the bucket, slightly curled down below level, until it just touches the deck. I attach one end of the strap to the front of the deck, run the strap over the bucket and attach the other end to the rear of the deck. I tighten down on the rachet to take the slack out of the strap. I then raise the deck and curl the bucket all the way back. This leaves the deck in a near vertical position making it very easy to change blades and scrape ( I place a trash can under the deck and let the grass clumps fall into it).

I am not sure if this will work with your deck/loader combination. If you try it, do it slow and make sure nothing gets pinched or damaged. You may want to place an piece of carpet or cardboard between the bucket and deck. I find this works better than just hanging the deck from the bucket as the bucket behind the deck keeps the deck from being pushed away as you scrape.

Picture attached.

Jeff

 

[wisconsinguy]

hi

I have the 62c deck and with the wheels turned I roll it out and grab the front edge and lift it up and it will sit on the back edge. If I need to move it I take a chain and hook on my two bucket hooks and then hook it on the mower hooks that the front support bar hooks too, right by the front roller.. It seems to balance pretty good that way.,

Phil

 

[jrlichina]

No it is not normal for the loader to leak down like that. You could either have something stuck in the relief valve(doesn't take much) which is allowing fluid to bypass when the pump is not running, or the tolerances in the control valve are way out of spec causing exessive leakage past the spools, or your loader cylinders have exessive leakage past the internal seals. I'd take it in and get it fixed under warranty right away.

 

[GreenDeerJohn]

I've had a problem with soft hydraulics on the FEL. When I was cutting in my side walk several weeks ago, the lifting cylinders kept moving without input from the stick. It didn't appear to do it all the time, but when it did it was annoying. I could get about 1.5 inches of travel on the lift cylinder before it would stop. I also found the bucket curl to be sometimes soft. If the bucket was tiped down and you brought it down against the ground, the bucket might curl 6 inches before resisting the load.

It acts like its got air in the cylinders. I've tried bleeding the FEL lines and thought I had it fixed. Then it came back. I may have left the hydraulic fluid level drop too low and pumped some air. I haven't tried rebleeding the system agian. I'd like to fix it my self Vs use the dealer. Most of the time I feel like I'm more competent than the sales or service staff.

Just wondering if others have experienced similar problems. Just found this site today and I'm very impressed. Own a 2210 with lots of modifications and I've adapted many X-series attachments.

John /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[chevy]

John,
What X series attachments have you adapted? I am looking at trading in my 455 for a 2210. I was wondering if the front quick hitch off the 455 would work on the 2210? One time the dealer said it would work. Then today he said it would not work. I also have a 47 snow blower I would like to use.
Chris

 

[bigpete]

Chevy: Been there. Tried that.

The hitch will not work across the two models. The attachments will work on either hitch, but the hitch attaches to the tractors differently. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[bigpete]

GreenDeerJohn,

I only noticed that kind of behavior when the RPMs were not at rated speed (on both the 2210 and 4110). Even a tight system may possibly be softer under load at lower RPMs. If your revs are up, sounds like you've got a serviceable problem.

 

[chevy]

Thanks Pete.
Chris

 

[GreenDeerJohn]

Chris,

I thought I had left a message on here before I left work late Friday afternoon. It looks like it didn't take. Pete is correct, you can't use the quick hitch directly on the 2210. The 2210's frame sits higher, and as such requires an adapter box to lower the quick hitch. This box is about 8" deep and is held to the 2210 frame with a cross bar. The quick hitch then locks onto the adapter box. I've been told that the 445 style quick hitch and the 2210 are the same, except for hoses. Having owned both, I would have to agree. The dealer said that there is a hose conversion kit available to convert the 445 quick hitch to the X-series/2210. You would then need the adapter box (not the correct name, maybe hitch box??) and the front PTO unique to the X-series or for the 2210. The snow blower should then drop on the front of either tractor. I sold the old equipment and bought all new, so I didn't have to deal with the conversions and end up with left over hoses and PTO shafts.

Most of my X-series attachments are for the rear 3pt. I kept my old 450 tiller, but I had to rework the upper link pin location for the I-match quick hitch. I bought the 50 gallon sprayer from the X, and had to extend the top link pin hole by 3/4", again to fit the I-match. I also bought the little four foot scraper box, and it had a horizontal brace between the upper link support brackets that had to be cut off to allow the I-match access from the bottom of the bin. The X-series attachments were set up for the Alpha hitch. Its and A-shaped bracket for the 3pt with the attachment piece engaging over the top of the tractor side A. The attachment side frames are ~$100 each, while adapter bushings and such for the I-match setup run ~ $30 when your all done. So I went with the I-match, as it was cheaper and more standard. I have yet to hook up my new I-match compatible LX4 bush hog, but the booklets say that it is I-match compatible so I'm not expecting any problems.

Hope this helps.

John /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif