forgeblast
Elite Member
I started building a jackleg fence due to a couple of reasons.
1. we want to control where the deer will run, especially during archery season
2. we want to control if anyone is trying to drive deer this happens during rifle season
3. discourage people who say "oh I didnt know I was on your property.
4. The fence is considered temp, which means I can go right up to my property line
5. It cost me time but the supplies are free.
6. Since I hunt archery, I get frustrated during rife season when the "neighbors" get cold and
start drives an hour after daylight, this way they may push the deer but they will not be able to cross.
I can always add more rungs and barbed if needed.
I started by cutting down some trees. Mostly hemlock and beech. I have a lot of beech growing in my hardwood stands because the deer will not eat the seedlings.
So I cut them into 10' lenghts. The thicker 10' lenghts get cut in 1/2. 18'' from the top I use the chainsaw to notch the logs and then use my eastwing masons hammer to knock out the notches.
I then drag them to where they need to go and hammer in a nail and set them up. I need to go back and add a few stones under the log X legs. to keep them from rotting. This is working pretty good we had a lot of wind blown trees this year and I like reusing them into a fence.
Build an inexpensive but durable jackleg fence by Dynah Geissal Issue #45
http://extension.usu.edu/smac/files/uploads/Fencing.pdf (page 15)
my sawhorse jig the pt wood is 18''
notched legs
fence in place
this pics show what I was hauling logs up, no way to get a tractor in there!
looking up
looking down, I hope how steep this is comes across it drained me yesterday.
1. we want to control where the deer will run, especially during archery season
2. we want to control if anyone is trying to drive deer this happens during rifle season
3. discourage people who say "oh I didnt know I was on your property.
4. The fence is considered temp, which means I can go right up to my property line
5. It cost me time but the supplies are free.
6. Since I hunt archery, I get frustrated during rife season when the "neighbors" get cold and
start drives an hour after daylight, this way they may push the deer but they will not be able to cross.
I can always add more rungs and barbed if needed.
I started by cutting down some trees. Mostly hemlock and beech. I have a lot of beech growing in my hardwood stands because the deer will not eat the seedlings.
So I cut them into 10' lenghts. The thicker 10' lenghts get cut in 1/2. 18'' from the top I use the chainsaw to notch the logs and then use my eastwing masons hammer to knock out the notches.
I then drag them to where they need to go and hammer in a nail and set them up. I need to go back and add a few stones under the log X legs. to keep them from rotting. This is working pretty good we had a lot of wind blown trees this year and I like reusing them into a fence.
Build an inexpensive but durable jackleg fence by Dynah Geissal Issue #45
http://extension.usu.edu/smac/files/uploads/Fencing.pdf (page 15)
my sawhorse jig the pt wood is 18''
notched legs
fence in place
this pics show what I was hauling logs up, no way to get a tractor in there!
looking down, I hope how steep this is comes across it drained me yesterday.