Is this 2165 worth saving? Mission creep strikes again!

Jack Vines · Jun 4, 2016

For many years, I mowed with a 2135 and the PTO developed intermittent operation. Pricing a new replacement clutch, instead, I found a 2165 which had been used to tow a salt spreader; as a result, the footboards were rusted through but the PTO had never been used. I bought it for $200 as spares for the 2135 I was using. The 2135 PTO problem turned out to be the push-on wiring connector, so the clutch never had to be replaced.

The 2165 started and ran perfectly, but closer inspection found a cracked right front kingpin housing on the axle end. Bought a used axle from eBay for $30. Later, picked up a twin-bagger setup for $50.

Then, one dark night, the 2135 was stolen, so now the 2165 had no purpose; it needed to go away. I thought it would be worth more if it had a functioning mower deck. After years of searching craigslist, today, I found a mint condition 48" deck with the fan-assist triple-bagger blower for $100.

So now, I've got $380 in a mower which I don't really need and will end up selling after several hours of labor to get it fixed up.

Any guesses as to what a twenty-plus-year-old 2165 mower is worth these days? Pictures to follow soon.

jack vines

Jack Vines · Jun 6, 2016

It's alive! Naturally, after being in storage, all the rubber fuel lines were dead and the carb was gummed up. I replaced all the rubber, disassembled the carb, blew it out and now it starts and runs perfectly. This 16hp 2166 actually starts and runs better than the 13hp 2135 I used for years. That was one cold-blooded engine.

The next question is why the never-used PTO doesn't engage. Most likely the problem is somewhere in the OEM switch and all the interlocks. It's amazing how few wires are actually necessary for the engine to start and run and for the PTO to engage/disengage. And yes, your opinions and results may vary, but on these older models, most of the problems are in the interlocks.

jack vines

Jack Vines · Jun 7, 2016

Yes, the OEM PTO switch was junk and it's gone, along with a mile of "lawyer-wiring". Took a while, but there's nothing left of the original wiring and switches. Now, all I need is the correct engine-to-deck drive belt. Since this is a later model 48" deck, what is the chance a 2166 belt will be the correct length? Since the 48" deck is from a later/larger model, what is the chance a 2166 belt will be the correct choice? From the internet, it's supposedly a B-series 112.4" long. That wasn't in stock at the no-longer-a-CC-dealer, nor at the two industrial supply houses, so I took a chance on a 111" and it worked.

Couldn't resist a few turns around the large, rough back 1/2-acre. The 2166 with 48" deck and 16hp is MUCH more tractor than the 2135 with 36" and 12hp. The larger wheels make a noticeable difference in feel.

Still to come is the belt-driven fan-assist clippings blower and mounting a twin bagger. Never used one of those blowers, but it will maybe add just enough too much width to the 48" deck to be really usable in the front lawn full of trees and flower beds.

Anyway, the trial run was so successful it makes me think of selling the new Toro ZT and keeping the old CC. The cast iron Kohler makes half the engine noise of the aluminum twin Briggs & Stratton on the Toro.

jack vines

Jack Vines · Jun 26, 2016

Just spent an entire Saturday afternoon replacing the running boards on what had been a junked mower. Yeah, I should have taken a 'before' photo to show how the foot rest area was completely rusted away on both sides.

Anyway, went to the scrap yard and for $12, bought a used aftermarket diamond plate aluminum pickup truck running board. Cut it to fit, bent to follow the missing sheet metal, bolted and pop-riveted it in place.

If and when I go to sell it, I won't make minimum wage on the time invested, so I must like to do this sort of resurrection.

Then, there's the new $80 seat.

jack vines