IS It A Good Idea To Add An External Filter To New System ?

[ampa]

I know to some...... that I may be becoming somewhat of a real pest with my continued rantin' on and on.... with all these many questions about this same hydraulic issue.... I can assure everyone one thing for certain .... that with all the help....and I've had plenty..... thanks to all you guys on TBN on all my confusin' .....but now answered questions....

I have made real good progress on connectin' and well on my way to properly connecting this whole addition hydraulic/cylinder/valve etc. to this exsisting on board tractors rear only hydraulic system....but... from time to time I still like to read OP hydraulic problems...and with these older tractors hydraulic systems I have noticed on some posted pics....
most have external filters installed...I've been told many times that my system has one built inside...but they don't refer it as a cartridge filter that I've been seein'.

I been told my system uses only a screen that can be removed cleaned in solvent and reinstalled....this sounds okay to me....thats if I knew where this screen was located inside the housin' of this old ISEKI tractor of mine..I plan before hand to change out the old fluid as it has had lots of time to get very contaminated mostly rain water gettin' into the sytem from a broken and rotted shifter boot....

now would be the best time to change it..correct?..another bit of advice to my single double acting anglin' cylinder was it was too short on the stroke as I recently found out to be true.... and plan on returnin' this short stroke and getting the proper LS type....also some other bit of advice mentioned..... was to add another hydraulic gadget/part that would help protect the cylinder from brute force keepin' the blade in it's straight angle position....or I would have problems later on damaging the new angle cylinder...

I need to know ahead of time what this is called and ask Princess Auto if it is a regular stock item......I think these three questions answered should be the last ones unless..... I hear or see something else...this seems to be a never endin' issue of buyin' the many needed parts....

I've included some new pics of my progress so far....("Note" the cylinder travel which seems not nearly enough by factory standards ....what!.... do you guys think?.the added wing gave me some weldin' practice...now I know why a steel work bench is recommended for weldin' on......"please! don't ask me" how I found out..one heck of a lot of smoke but no real fire... thanks again.....to everyone who has helped me.... tremendously from the very begining .... in advance.... and take care.....Ampa <>

 

[Gary Sweat]

..another bit of advice to my single double acting anglin' cylinder was it was too short on the stroke as I recently found out to be true.... and plan on returnin' this short stroke and getting the proper LS type....

It may just be the way I'm looking at the photo but have you checked to make sure that the clevis on the blade bracket will clear the bracket at full swing? The bracket looks really close to the back of the clevis already and adding additional swing may let it hit the bracket before it makes the full travel. I don't know how far these blades rotate and it may not be an issue.

 

[ampa]

I forgot to mention...I plan on usin' my new Hitachi 4" grinder.... install a 4" metal cuttin' disc and trim that cleave bracket back a bit to allow more room for the cylinder movement ....the back end of the cylinder seems fine.....besides my weldin' is just a terrible mess.....and will give me a chance to get rid of some.... plus.....the added 1/4" piece I welded in yesterday is more or less a spacer...so there will be no real force applied to it...

I had to drill some extra holes to mount this bracket that I hadn't used and saved off my old 42" Craftsman snowblade that was designed to mount the "A" frame to the old owners old Craftsman lawn tractor..... it happened to be the same thickness so I decieded to use it for the ear of this new blade.... another thing I was just thinkin' about afterwards..... was that a new long stroke cylinder,,,,,,,,,

first off is gonna' cost a few extra $$ for which my budget is gettin' a little too far ahead of my finance position...and since I don't really know if it will fall short till I get the whole issue all connected and workin'.....plus along with what you just mentioned...

maybe just leave well enough alone for now.....I'm thinkin' possible breakage damage....meanin' a longer stroke would be maybe the best choice.. and but also could cause some major problems down the road....bein' able to operate beyond the swing point... dead stop..

I'd like to believe there be all kinds of brute force even with this little cylinder. I'm I bein' correct to think this?...would a 1/4 or more of the total L-R swing travel be enough.... at least the cylinder will be in control of the stopping points.....

if you know what I'm tryin' to say here Gary.....maybe someone else has a comment to make on this issue...sometimes things are done not so much as to save money but to be more practical...but then what do I know.... bein' someone that knows very little to nothin' about hydraulics.... Gary I wish to take time and thank you kindly for your quick response....I need the education/training etc......take care<>Ampa

 

[Gary Sweat]

I would use the grinder to remove material off of the blade end mount bracket and not take any off of the cylinder clevis. That clevis needs to stay the thickness it was designed to in order to keep the working load of the cylinder. You have plenty on the bracket so you can safely take some off to get the cylinder to swing freely to just about any point you want.

If you are just resurfacing a driveway or such and don't have the blade very deep I don't think you will have problems with the cylinder blowing out. If you are working in unfamiliar territory and hit a big rock that could be different.

You might look into putting a heavy spring between the blade mount and the cylinder mount to act as a shock absorber and at least let you know to either raise the blade or hit the brakes quickly. Another idea may be a relief valve on the cylinder back line to relieve at a set back pressure and maybe help save the cylinder???

 

[ampa]

No Gary I wasn't meanin' to grind the cylinder I would not do that...I meant the bracket that I made up....I knew this needed to be done when I was welding it....or should I say with my messy job....tryin' to weld it....my first time usin' my new 125 Lincoln 120 volt....anyhow gettin' some much needed lessons on the weldin' section of TBN .....thanks Gary this info you gave me is gonna' help so much....

I couldn't think of the gaget that was mentioned so it must be a relief valve of some kind..could even be something to cusion the cylinder if I hit something solid something have to give...I'll ask if they have something like you mentioned... where I get my hydraulic parts next time I'm in the store...I'm planning real hard to get her all done with this month pention cheque....thats if I can swing it....my woman thinks I'm spendin' way too much time and money on this compact tractor of mine...but heck she loves her Bingo...and I love my tractor....so I don't see a big difference they both cost money.....only thing with me is I get to keep and see what I spend in parts etc....her money becomes invisable/like gone....nothin' to show for it.... if she don't win....and hasn't won a heck of alot $$ these last two years....I want to thank you for your sincere input to my questions.... I should be soon... good to go....take care.....Ampa :thumbsup:

 

[ampa]

Here are some clear pic's....Ampa

 

[Gary Sweat]

I noticed in your second photo that you have the back of the cylinder clamped to the tube. You could always try to leave this just tight enough it would hold for moving the blade but slip if too much pressure is placed on the cylinder by hitting something?? Would a shear pin work at that point put through the bracket and the tube? It would act as a sort of safety relief for the cylinder and let it slide back if you hit an something. I have no idea how to calculate what size shear pin would be needed. Just some possibilities to consider.

 

[Transit]

Ampa, what ever you decide to do there are some filter rules. That screen filter is most likely in the oil sump on the suction line; it uses a 150 micron mesh.

1] Never use a fine filter on the suction line circuit to the pump or risk destroying the pump.

2] If you wish to add a fine filter, less than 150 microns, 10 microns. It MUST be installed it in the return line to the oil sump.

 

[ampa]

I think your correct Transit...the built in reservoir must have a srceen on that big suction line....as for the bracket on the cylinder Gary.....it can be tighten up quite a bit...but don't want to bend or sqwish the the "A" frame square tubing...so I just snugged it up....but I suppose it could be tightened just enough to let it slide back some if I were to hit something solid.....but I intend to be real careful with this snowplough....

unless I get some extra work around here this winter....but then I still have time to take it easy....I will check out some relief valves though... or whatever they are called....I haven't done anything to the tractor last couple days/nights...sort of taken a break....pay days comin'.... I still need more fittings and then buy the hose...and have them all made up....

I 'll have the two short1/4" lenghts to the line in and out of the tractor line that I cut and installed the compression fittings....then the four 1/4" hoses from the double valve to the black plate front of the tractor I call a bumper....this is where I'll attacth the alumium 1/4" plate with the 4 QC......then four 1/4" short hoses to the cylinders....unless someone else has a better idea..Thanks in advance...take care Ampa