Ironhorse/Jinma 284 starter problems in cooler weather

[TimP82]

Hello everyone. I have had my 2003 Ironhorse 284 (Y385 engine) for almost 3 years now. It has 320-ish hours on it and all works pretty well. The problem I have had since last winter is starting in anything cooler than 40 degrees F. Warmer than that, its starts just fine every time, in terms of starter drive engagement. When its colder than that during initial start, the starter drive will just spin (and not engage), until I release the key from the start position. At that point, it makes a horrible grinding noise as it slows down and engages with the flywheel. I have taken the starter drive apart and cleaned it spotless and only coated the starter drive shaft with a graphite spray, during reassembly. After engine runs a bit (and warms up starter assembly) it starts as normal every time after. This only occurs when the starter is initially cold.

I dont want to replace a working starter unless I have to. Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas before I buy a whole new starter??

Thanks in advance!

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Sounds like it could be a battery problem. At low temperatures the battery isn't providing enough juice to spin the motor fast enough to get the drive to engage.

 

[Bob Rooks]

Yes, what Quicksand said.

These tractors only have a 14 amp alternator, so if you aren't using it enough to fully recharge the battery every time you use it, it will have a debilitating effect on the battery. Without getting overly technical, with a 14 amp alternator (running at rated speed for full output), you would have to run the tractor for a minimum of six hours to fully recharge the battery after a cold start using glow plugs..
What you can do: Clean all of the battery ground cable connections and coat with dielectric grease, and use a battery maintainer when the tractor is not in use. This might buy you some time before a battery replacement is necessary.

 

[Roadworthy]

By all means do all the suggested stuff for your battery. Make sure it is charged. Take it to a shop and have it load tested - many places do that free. Then if the battery is good and you still have issues it may be the starter or the Bendix. I went through the whole drill with my Mitsubishi. A new starter was the final solution. Fortunately I could obtain it from a local starter repair shop.

 

[Affordable]

If the need arises for a new starter or solenoid please give us a call to see if we can help you, we are a full service Parts supplier for Jinma & Foton tractors, we don't have it all but we have thousands of parts in stock, it always helps if you have your engine model type and number handy as the chinese used several different engines in the same model tractors

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company
979-865-4002

 

[TimP82]

Thanks for the responses all. I should have mentioned some of the upgrades I have done to the tractor since buying it. I have upgraded the alternator to a GM single wire, self exiting 75 Amp alternator, which quickly charges the battery after startup within minutes. I have also replaced the battery last winter with a group 39 quality battery that you would run in a 1 ton truck. Also, both battery cables and all connections are new as of last winter.

So with that said, would the consensus say either the solenoid or the starter drive/Bendix assembly be the problem?

 

[Bob Rooks]

Thanks for the responses all. I should have mentioned some of the upgrades I have done to the tractor since buying it. I have upgraded the alternator to a GM single wire, self exiting 75 Amp alternator, which quickly charges the battery after startup within minutes. I have also replaced the battery last winter with a group 39 quality battery that you would run in a 1 ton truck. Also, both battery cables and all connections are new as of last winter.

So with that said, would the consensus say either the solenoid or the starter drive/Bendix assembly be the problem?

Yeah, it would have been a big help if you had mentioned all that first. Would have saved some time and head scratching. Since you have already had the starter motor and solenoid apart, cleaned and tested it ok, there is only one option left. Buy a new one.

 

[RonMar]

On these starters solenoid pulls the bendix into engagement via a lever. That lever fulcrum pin has an adjustment...

With that age and number of hours, I would pull the starter and clean out all the brush carbon and clean and lube the bendix with fresh grease. While you are in there, you can adjust that pivot point.

Was having a slow crank issue last winter. Stripped the starter and the brush end was packed with carbon. Also cleaned the rotor windings and the solenoid linkage and gear. re-lubed and re-assembled and it cranked great after that...

 

[dennyd]

I fought the same issue for 2 winters, each time I dug into it a little deeper finally cleaning and blowing all the junk out of it re lubing everything.
Using just a touch of thin oil, the crud, rust & carbon that build up in these things it's amazing it worked when it was warm out.
And double check your ground to frame, clean down to bare steel, no rust no paint, or oil.

 

[TimP82]

I fought the same issue for 2 winters, each time I dug into it a little deeper finally cleaning and blowing all the junk out of it re lubing everything.
Using just a touch of thin oil, the crud, rust & carbon that build up in these things it's amazing it worked when it was warm out.
And double check your ground to frame, clean down to bare steel, no rust no paint, or oil.

Thanks, I will give this a try before spending a couple hundred dollars on another starter. I really don't want to, since this one technically works.