Installing yard hydrant

   / Installing yard hydrant #1  

czechsonofagun

Elite Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2006
Messages
3,268
Location
Old Dominion
Tractor
Kubota B1750
I have this list of to does, but never done it, anything missing?

- use 3/4" black flexible pipe to run the water
- sand under and over the pipe
- plastic orange tape in the ground to indicate the pipe for future digging
- to connect the pipe to the hydrant use 3/4" brass elbow with adapters (if I can actually find one:))
- install the hydrant, secure it with a piece of rebar to make sure it stays vertical
- turn the water on, check for leaks
- fill the hole with gravel making sure the drain hole is not plugged with dirt or anything


Also planning to have a shot off valve in house.

Any word of experience or suggestion?
 
   / Installing yard hydrant #2  
Sounds like a good list. I'd have another person on hand to hold the thing steady after you connect it up while you are testing it for leaks. Other than that, have fun!
 
   / Installing yard hydrant #3  
Take care unrolling the plastic pipe, it can kink easily, creating a pin hole leak.

For the speacial adapter, use a "street ell" with a barbed end that will slide into the ABS hose, and use 2 radiator clamps to secure it. You can get the fittings at almost any farm store as well as Lowes and Home depot.

I used a "T" post to secure mine and keep it straight, it ran to about 6" lower than the hydrant handle.

Mark
 
   / Installing yard hydrant #4  
Put a check valve between the line and the hydrant, as a safety precaution.
 
   / Installing yard hydrant #5  
Toss the re-bar and replace it with a bag of concrete.
 
   / Installing yard hydrant #6  
I don't know what the codes are there but here you have to have a shut off close to the hydrant. When mine was put in they put the shut off about two feet from the hydrant and then put a 6" green PVC pipe up to the surface. I sure am glad that they did. So far one of the work crew backed into one hydrant and I broke one when a hose hung on the tractor and pulled on it. All of mine have T posts driven beside them to where they are level with the top of the pipe by the handle. The T posts are then wired to the pipe. I think that stainless pipe clamps would work real well also.
 
   / Installing yard hydrant #7  
Almost forgot. Put an elbow turned down in the drain hole. That way the sand and other junk won't get into the drain.
 
   / Installing yard hydrant #8  
In Illinois yard hydrants are illegal with out a backflow device before it, but then again what’s not illegal in Illinois!
There are good reasons for this law, you can back siphon contaminates into your water lines with the weep hole below surface water. There have been deaths as a result of this happening. Best example I can think to illustrate this would be a E.coli issue The spinach problem some months back would be one example that has been in the news. Anytime you have pig, horse, cattle, etc. lots there is water from the hydrant and waste from the animals on the ground in the area around the hydants, that mix can soon find their way to the weep hole level.
Sleep well tonite! thats way I try to drink beer instead of water. :D
 
   / Installing yard hydrant #9  
JerryG said:
Almost forgot. Put an elbow turned down in the drain hole. That way the sand and other junk won't get into the drain.

See like Jerry said, junk in the drain!
 
   / Installing yard hydrant #10  
okie350 said:
Take care unrolling the plastic pipe, it can kink easily, creating a pin hole leak.

For the speacial adapter, use a "street ell" with a barbed end that will slide into the ABS hose, and use 2 radiator clamps to secure it. You can get the fittings at almost any farm store as well as Lowes and Home depot.

I used a "T" post to secure mine and keep it straight, it ran to about 6" lower than the hydrant handle.

Mark

I don't think its ABS but rather HDPE or high density polyethylene
 

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