Installing a dry well

   / Installing a dry well #1  

Aquamoose

Platinum Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2011
Messages
940
Location
Deer Park, WA
Tractor
Branson 3520h
I’m planning to install a dry well before the wet season and want to make it as large as possible as I don’t think a traditional 55 gal barrel will do. I have an old 250 gallon IBC. Can I use that? I plan to put it in an area with no foot traffic, in the woods just pass my grass.

Any advice? I have a backhoe FYI.
 
   / Installing a dry well #2  
When we lived in coastal Virginia we had to upgrade our drainage to keep runoff from the roof from going directly into the Chesapeake. The engineered dry wells (two of them, one on each side of the house) were 8 ft deep, 4 ft wide, 12 ft long. Lined with cloth that would pass water but not silt. Filled with crushed rock to within 12 inches of the surface then soil and turf.
 
   / Installing a dry well #3  
Why not put a rain barrel and/or tank in between? Run the rain barrel/tank overflow into the dry well.

I've about 1400 gallons of rain barrels/tanks. It helps to keep that much out of the water system each time it rains IF I can timely use the water up between rainfalls. A 1/2" fall fills them all. OR, if you don't use them, just leave them open to the dry wells and just let them dribble into it between rainfalls.

Ralph
 
   / Installing a dry well #4  
Hey - AM - what is the chance that somebody might drive something heavy over your 250 gallon IBC. I think your idea is great but build the system with some "very visual" means of identifiation.
 
   / Installing a dry well
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Hey - AM - what is the chance that somebody might drive something heavy over your 250 gallon IBC. I think your idea is great but build the system with some "very visual" means of identifiation.

As long as I’m driving the tractor, zero. It’s definitely not in a “let’s drive through here” zone but I’m thinking of putting some decorative element(s) over the spot just in case. Perhaps lay a fabric cloth over the top and throw bark on it?

The top I’m not concerned about, but the sides collapsing. Throw down plywood on the sides before backfilling?
 
   / Installing a dry well #6  
Throw down plywood on the sides before backfilling?
Either that or put the plywood around the IBC and one band to hold it there before you lower it into the hole.
 
   / Installing a dry well #7  
As long as I知 driving the tractor, zero. It痴 definitely not in a 斗et痴 drive through here zone but I知 thinking of putting some decorative element(s) over the spot just in case. Perhaps lay a fabric cloth over the top and throw bark on it?

The top I知 not concerned about, but the sides collapsing. Throw down plywood on the sides before backfilling?

Wouldn't sheets of plywood defeat the water permeation function of a dry well?

I'm on a septic tank and a dry well system myself. The dry well is a 5 foot diameter perforated concrete tube about 4 feet tall, with a lid to cap it, no bottom.

The dry well is filled all around with coarse sand. The fill forms a bank on the far side side, the near side is about 1 1/2 feet below grade. I don't drive over it.

The tank works fine, with lots of green growth all summer long. Really the best filter possible.

I've seen dry wells constructed of dry laid concrete blocks. Circular and somewhat conical to allow a smaller cap. Action of frost etc. can take these apart if the soil is not very well drained.
 
   / Installing a dry well #8  
A future owner could find it the hard way if the top will not support a piece of heavy equipment if unaware of it's presence...
...for the same reason municipalities require obsolete septic tanks etc. to be back filled...
 
   / Installing a dry well #9  
I laid many dry wells with cinder or later on, concrete blocks. We would cover them with a concrete lid from a pre-cast company. They were used both for drainage and as part of a septic system. They were laid on a bed of crushed stone and surrounded by more stone.

Will
 
   / Installing a dry well
  • Thread Starter
#10  
The IBC would have drainage holes at the bottom and sit on a bed of gravel. I just thought that using it would be quick, easy & fast while being large.

Two winters ago was the wettest on record and a portion of my house seeped water due to the constant rain & ground saturation of the downspout regardless of the fact that I sloped it away 20+ feet.

I plan to install a sump pump well in the basement to pump out the water to a small sediment catch where the downspout water meets before routing it to the dry well. With the size, it should be able to hold the water until it percolates over a period of time after wet spells.

I’ll definitely make plans to mark the dry well area but it’s in a spot where ther absolutely makes no sense for any heavy equipment to go thru there. Maybe I’ll put some dry scapes or yard art there to make it impassible.
 

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