Have any of you installed a radiant tube heater? I have my new 32 x 40 x 14 ft side wall shop and need to get heat into it by winter. I have priced a radiant tube heater and looks reasonable. Are they are difficult to install? Can I do it my self or am I going to need to hire a heating guy?
Install Radiant Tube Heater??
- Thread starter monteu
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I thought about it when I heated my shop but I have lots of sawdust, paint fumes, solvents. I was never comfortable with any kind of gas flame coming on in that environment. There must be some way to do that safely but I didn't feel good with it. I got a couple 5Kw electric forced air space heaters, but you've got a much bigger building.
My buddy did something in a big building, he put a regular gas furnace in a separate room in the building, then ran a couple flexible round ducts off a trunk line in the shop. He brings the flexible ducts over by where he's working and fires up the gas furnace, instant heat wherever he's working. Kind of hillbilly but it works well.
My buddy did something in a big building, he put a regular gas furnace in a separate room in the building, then ran a couple flexible round ducts off a trunk line in the shop. He brings the flexible ducts over by where he's working and fires up the gas furnace, instant heat wherever he's working. Kind of hillbilly but it works well.
vwnotrunning
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We have installed several of the commercial units that utilize an air intake through the wall to bring in combustion air and the the flue goes through the roof. No issues with the flumes, dust, vapors in the building with this set up. Not sure if all units can utilize the ducted outside air.
QRTRHRS
Elite Member
I not worked with these systems but I have helped out a friend that does electric/heating/plumbing that has. One of the things he mentioned while discussing an application that another company was working on was about the cracks in the concrete and if the pipe would suffer damage or not.
It is done all of the time so I would simply look into the best way to deal with the concrete cracking such as with fibers in the mix, wire, expansion joints, etc.
One thing nice about a hot water system depending on your zoning is using some sort of wood fired boiler.
It is done all of the time so I would simply look into the best way to deal with the concrete cracking such as with fibers in the mix, wire, expansion joints, etc.
One thing nice about a hot water system depending on your zoning is using some sort of wood fired boiler.
But isn't the igniter/burner exposed to the air space being heated, or are you saying all the combustion is completely isolated from the building air? The issue I couldn't get comfortable with was the fact that there is an open igniter and burner array surrounded by building air when it cycles on. Once it starts burning it draws outside air, but the initial ignition uses room air.
Mace Canute
Elite Member
DaveOmak
Platinum Member
Are you talking about "hot water in floor" hydronic radiant heat? Use an electric water heater for a supply...
vwnotrunning
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Most of the commercial units do not start up or ignite with room air. There is typically a sealed sight glass to verify ignition or to tune the burner. No concern for combustion source or contamination of the burner / heater.
I'm pretty sure the OP is talking about one of these, not in-floor heat.
Sorry for not being clear, Yes I am talking about a tube heater you hang from the ceiling.
Have these in all my buildings. Installed them myself. I duct outside air to them. Only way to go as far as I'm concerned. I have $1080 total cost in the one in my 42 X 45 and $1200 total in the one in my 54 X 83. Try doing that with floor heat. Easy to service but mine have never needed any.
Biggest tip is set the thermostat in the fall and don't touch it till spring. Pretty cheap comfortable heat, floor is warm, tools are warm.
Biggest tip is set the thermostat in the fall and don't touch it till spring. Pretty cheap comfortable heat, floor is warm, tools are warm.
