Injector Problem?

[brent192]

Guys,

Hoping someone can give me some advise. Bought my Jinma 354 new...no major problems until last week. Im up to about 250 hours on it. Just pushing some dirt around when it started running poorly and blowing white smoke out of the exhaust. I can tell by the engine sound that its missing on one cylinder. I loosened the fuel lines one at a time to each injector to find which cylinder was not firing - had to be the last one (closest to the rear of the tractor). Nothing seems plugged off in the line... I pulled the injector and it seems fine, but there just doesnt seem to be any fire in that cylinder. I changed out the fuel filter just in case, but that didnt seem to help. Any ideas what to look for? Thanks! - Brent

 

[Affordable]

If the sound of the engine did not change on the last injector,I would suspect it being clogged up,you cannot tell by looking at the injector.

You either need to take that injector to a diesel shop to test it or replace it.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[brent192]

Thanks Tommy - would it be worth swapping the injector from another cylinder to make sure the problem follows the injector, or just order a new one? Do you know which injector from your site is correct for the 354?

 

[greg_g]

Good plan; see if the problem follows the injector. If it does, that's a good thing - you can simply replace it. If it doesn't, white exhaust can also be induced with water. Unfortunately that usually means head gasket. But for now, one step at a time.

//greg//

 

[brent192]

I just got done with this - and unfortunatly, the problem did not follow the injector....still not firing on cylinder 3. The water looks fine... Seems like it should smell powdery or have oil in it if the head gasket was blown? Starts right up... idles fine...

 

[doxford jim]

Just a shot i the dark - did you check your valve clearances ??? You might just have a tight valve in #3 cylinder causing low compression. It might be a good idea to check and adjust your engine valves before you do anything else - stranger things have happened.

What are your symptoms - engine wobbly, misfire, knock ????? Any coolant leaks ? Engine overheating at all ? Checked your engine oil for fuel contamination ?

Just a few things to think about - though it might just be a plugged injector as Tommy said.

Cheers

Jim.

 

[brent192]

Symtoms are misfire on cylinder 3... no coolant leaks, doesnt look like there is fuel contamination in the oil. No overheating. I think Ive ruled out the injector being the problem - swapped it with cylinder 1 and the problem stayed with cylinder 3.

Adjusting the valves is probably beyond my comfort level. I have a bro-in-law that is a diesel mechanic though... Ill have to see if he can have a look.

 

[erj]

Symtoms are misfire on cylinder 3... no coolant leaks, doesnt look like there is fuel contamination in the oil. No overheating. I think Ive ruled out the injector being the problem - swapped it with cylinder 1 and the problem stayed with cylinder 3.

Adjusting the valves is probably beyond my comfort level. I have a bro-in-law that is a diesel mechanic though... Ill have to see if he can have a look.

Brent,
I notice that you have 250 hrs on the tractor. Were the heads retorqued and valves adjusted since you bought it?
RonJ

 

[brent192]

No, they were not.

 

[retiredmgn]

My 2:2cents: would be a crack in the head gasket between the water jacket and a cylinder.
Working on deisel on boats, white exhaust meant water. Blue or black meant oil.

 

[g0rd0]

I have a 284 with 110hrs on it. It sounds as if your valves need to be adjusted. It is reccommended that it be done before 50hrs. I was haveing problems getting it to start at 90hrs and then discovered the "check valve lash before 50hrs" in the book, took it to my mechanic (I too was not comfortable with the task) and discovered 1 tight exhaust and 2 loose intake valves. So, do get it done AND if you havent yet drained the oil out of the injector pump and refill it with the same oil that you use for your engene.
Do that also, there sould be a 13mm bolt on the bottom of the injector pump and the govener (attched to the injector pump the part that the fuel shut off cable is connected to) remove those bolts to drain and while they are draining look at the bolts to see how much grunge is on them.
If there is a buildup of grunge remove the pump panel and spray the slider with a cleaner to be sure that it sldes easly forward and back.
Replace the drain plugs and with a 19mm wrench remove the fill cap (a mushroom vent on the govener) that is where you fill it. Now on the side of the injector pump at the front 1/2 way up is a small bolt that has a tube pointing down that is covered with a plastic cap remove the cap and when fresh oil comes out of the tube your pump if full. Again your mechanic will know what I am talking about.

 

[jonyyuma]

Bravo, This sounds like a person really trying to help out another. I don't own one, but bet I could do it with a printout of your posting, Great>>.

 

[brent192]

Well - I finally had some time to work on this. As soon as I pulled the valve cover the problem was evident. Looks like the cup end of the push rod adjuster broke off and fell down inside the tube. Doesnt seem to be jammed up or seized. I'm pretty sure I can get it out will a magnet fish tool - which I cant find. Any one know the part number to replace? Good idea to replace the rod also? Heres a pic.

318317_194858560579458_100001659450908_438223_6137247_n | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

 

[Rich Waugh]

Thanks for the follow-up post with the source of the problem, Brent. That will help others, I'm sure.

Tough to tell how far down the missing cup end might have gone. Do you suppose it could make its way all the way to the sump? Go to the office supply store or Radio Shack or somewhere similar and buy the smallest little neodymium magnet you can find - about 1/8" diameter by1/4" long would be ideal, I think. Drill a 1/8" hole in the end of a 1/4" wooden dowel and glue the magnet in. Now you have a pickup tool that won't be wanting to stick to everything on the sides all the time. You can guess how I know about this...

I'd stick the pickup magnet thingy down there before I tried to lift the pushrod out, just in case the pushrod is the only thing keeping that cup piece from getting to the lifter or cam and trashing them. Better safe than sorry!

I'm sure Tommy at Affordable or Ronald at RanchHand or the guys at Circle G can come up with the right part for you. Give them a call.

 

[Bob Rooks]

My guess is the "cup" has broken into at least four small pieces and they are laying in the bottom of the sump. Sorry. This can be caused by the valve being excessively tight and being smacked by the piston. When you remove the push rod check it for trueness by rolling it on a flat surface. If it has the least amount of "wobble" then you can almost bet the valve stem is bent also.

FWIW and for accuracy's sake: White exhaust is unburned fuel from a cold combustion chamber and a dribbling (stuck/dirty) injector. Blue exhaust is oil burning, black/brown exhaust is from unburned fuel due to not enough combustion air (lugging, dirty air filter, overloading), and grey exhaust is from coolant (cross - contamination being evident).

There is no "efficiency haze" with diesel engines. :laughing:

 

[Bob Rooks]

Go to the office supply store or Radio Shack or somewhere similar and buy the smallest little neodymium magnet you can find - about 1/8" diameter by1/4" long would be ideal, I think. Drill a 1/8" hole in the end of a 1/4" wooden dowel and glue the magnet in. Now you have a pickup tool that won't be wanting to stick to everything on the sides all the time. You can guess how I know about this...

That is an excellent idea. :thumbsup:
Going to make one right now!

 

[brent192]

I can see the cup down in the tube - about 4 inches. It looks intact - and its not jammed in tight. Looks like it popped off and dropped right down in the tube. Guess Ill find out when I get it out.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I can see the cup down in the tube - about 4 inches. It looks intact - and its not jammed in tight. Looks like it popped off and dropped right down in the tube. Guess Ill find out when I get it out.

My fingers are crossed for you.

 

[Affordable]

Here is a link to the replacement push rod,if you have a Y385T, we have the Ladiong part # also,confirm which engine you have.


https://affordabletractorsalesco.co...picid=3963&category=ZL-20&sub_category=&scid=



Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[brent192]

Here is a link to the replacement push rod,if you have a Y385T, we have the Ladiong part # also,confirm which engine you have.


https://affordabletractorsalesco.co...picid=3963&category=ZL-20&sub_category=&scid=



Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

Thanks Tommy. Im not sure about the condition of the rod yet - but I know the adjuster/cup piece at the top is broken. Do you have that part?