Ingersoll 4016 Engine 'Smokes'

[mink2525]

Here is a description for an Ingersoll 4016:

"This tractor comes with a snow - gravel plow which is aprox. 4' wide. A mulcher that attaches to the hydrolic system of the tractor, and the output hose discharges into a box trailer...which is included also. It also has a 3 Blade 48" deck. This tractor does run and drives fine, the only problem is that is smokes. It has a Briggs and Stratton motor on it with over head valves. I think it may just be the valve seats."

Does anyone have an idea why the engine would smoke??? What should I look for that would suggest to not buy this? Price is under $1000.

I'm moving to a farm in Minnesota that has 2+ acres to mow and a 200'+ driveway to keep clean in the winter...

 

[hydriv]

You have my response to your PM. No need to repeat myself in this thread.

 

[Travelover]

Not a bad price if it is not all beat out. I think the seller means valve GUIDES as opposed to valve seats.

You can check rings by taking a compression test, then squirting in SAE 30W oil in the spark plug hole and retesting. If the compression jumps, rings are bad. Could also be a plugged crankcase vent.

How many hours are on it?

 

[mink2525]

I don't know the number of hours... I will definitely look into that when I test drive it... I spoke with the owner earlier today and he mentioned that some days it smokes quite a bit, other days it doesn't seem to at all... not sure about either of those explanations.

If the 'guides' need replacing or the ventcase unplugged... how difficult/expensive are either of these procedures... that's way out of my reach, though I'm certainly willing to try. I realize the value of the machine...

 

[hydriv]

If the engine has guides that are worn so bad that they are contributing to oil consumption, then the rest of the engine is similarly worn and a total rebuild is in order. Bandaid solutions may be OK when you are intending on selling something but if you intend to keep this tractor and use it, then you want it to be reliable for years to come.

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing right.

 

[mink2525]

I went and looked at the 4016 tonight...

The guy couldn't even get it started without 'starting fluid'... it would not continue to run without the 'starting fluid'... let me describe what I saw:

- pulled off both spark plugs. Very old, dirty and rusty.
- when he did get the engine to run for a bit, it definitely began to emit 'blue' smoke out of the front exhaust
- the air filter was filthy (it was off so he could spray starting fluid into the carb)
- I checked the oil... it was very dark... the level came about 1/2" beyond the 'fill' mark on the dipstick. I followed the directions to insert and screw down the cap when checking...
- front grill bent/broken in
- front left tire; hole plugged
- rear left tire; side wall dry rot (owner said both rear tires slow leaked air)
- hydra vac hoses both have slits and much duct tape to hold together
- hydra vac does not have 'cover' from what I've seen in photos of unit
- blade looks to be in decent condition, with a slight bend/dent about 1/2 way along the blade
- mower deck looks 'ok'... belt looks 'ok'... couldn't tell running condition
- general condition of tractor looks pretty good other than needing to be cleaned up
- the tractor has 1146 hours on it

Can anyone help me figure out how to get this thing to run long enough to get an idea of the condition?

The seller has a way to test engine compression... if it would run...

I suggested he at least replace the spark plugs, but I'm not sure that is the issue if it will run as long as he's spraying starting fluid into the carb.

I would really like to make this thing work, but am a bit wary...

Thanks for the help!!!!!

 

[Travelover]

It sounds like it has been run hard and put away wet. I think I'd pay just a little more and get one in running condition.

 

[Koan]

I have an old 3018 with about 400 hrs on it, had to completely rebuild deck - new bearings and bushings, stripped and repainted. The engine on mine is an Onan, so I cannot draw from experience with the B&S motor, but it is clear maintenacne was not performed on this machine, so I would expect to have to rebuild the deck and the motor. The carb is shot and will need a rebuild as well. The previous owner probably left untreated fuel in the carb off season, and never checked the fuel filter. lots of work to make this reliable.

 

[oldballs]

I would agree that the machine has had poor maintenance. I would guess that it would take about 500 to 1000 dollars to put in in shape if you did most of the work yourself. My Case is 28 years old, with the Onan engine and good maintenance on the engine and MMM, but it still cost me some time and money to keep it that way. Today at about 2000 hours, it still runs great and is quite reliable. They don't make the new garden tractors like the old Case. Steel...cast iron...they are not made anymore.

 

[hydriv]

They don't make the new garden tractors like the old Case. Steel...cast iron...they are not made anymore.

You need to get out more. If you can find an Ingersoll dealer that actually has some new Ingersoll's in stock, you will find GT's that are not only made like the old Case you have but are made even better.

Ingersoll still uses the same cast steel front axle and trans-axle but with improvements. The frames are still welded up from structural steel and the fenders, seat pedestal and hood are all made from heavy guage sheet steel. Ingersoll has not gone to plastics or composites like so many other brands have but quality like that still comes at a price just like it did when your Case was new.