Increasing Height of 3 pt. Lift?

[Iplayfarmer]

Now that I have my PTO working, I'm finding that implements I have on the 3 pt. hitch won't lift high enough for my tastes.

My draft control lever goes from 1 to 8. At 7 the 3 pt. is at it's max, but at 4 or 5 the implement is touching the ground. When I had the tractor apart I saw that the primary lift arms have plenty of travel, but the implement bottoms out before the arms get even halfway down.

Has anyone had any luck shortening the linkages between the primary and secondary lift arms? It seems that would solve the problem and really make the tractor more usefull.

Anyone have any other ideas for taking advantage of the full travel of the 3 pt. lift and increasing the height to which the 3 pt. arms raise?

 

[KML]

You could use shorter links no problem and it would be relatively cheap. My TSC and Rural King have a good selection of different size fixed and adjustable links and I'll bet AgriSupply does too.

Another option that is a little more money but has additional benifits is a hydraulic top link. This went a long way towards giving me more overall adjustment of implement height and is just darned handy to have. You can do this with a manual top link also but it's work! With a hydraulic link you can adjust on the fly. Shorten the link to transport and then lengthen to work. Also lets you get the correct angle on things like plows, rear blades, and box blades. It really is one of those things that once you have one you'll wonder how you got along with out it.

Don't know what kind of tractor you have but another thing to look at is the lift arms themselves. I guy I work with has a Yanmar (grey) ~26HP and I lent him my tiller. He called and said it was "too big" for his tractor because it wouldn't raise high enough. Sounded odd to me as his tractor is bigger than my 2210 and it's a smallish 50" tiller (JD 450). Went over and although his tractor is a full cat I, it had these short 20" lift arms. "Well, there's you're problem!" Got himself a set of 27" arms and life is good..

Using longer lift arms will increase how high and low an implement will lift but will also change how much they will lift. If you're tractor has plenty of lift capacity on the 3 point it shouldn't be a problem. Changing the lift arm length will also affect your PTO shafts, so consider that also....

Here's a site that sells them from 22" - 32".

Lift Arms

 

[GreenWannabe]

You might also just shorten your top link, or replace it with a shorter one. Most local farm supply places like TSC would have them.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

You might also just shorten your top link, or replace it with a shorter one. Most local farm supply places like TSC would have them.

That's great except that implements like a bush hog and tiller really are meant to work level with the ground (or close to level). Shortening the top link would change the angle.

I thought about the longer lift arms, and I have a pair that are longer, but much of what I do with this SCUT is in pretty tight quarters...Mostly tilling residential gardens. I'd like to keep the tiller as close as possible to the tractor. Where I have the travel in the primary lift arms, I'm sure I can get it to work like I want it to with the current arms.

I suppose buying shorter linkages would be an easy option. For some reason I had it through my head that I'd have to modify what I've got.

 

[rustyanchor]

My "Lift rods" are both adjustable, the right while the lower link arms are still attached. The left can be lengthened or shortened by dropping the lower link arm and screwing the attachment point in or out. Not sure if this is a common setup or not.

Mark

 

[john_bud]

Some lower arm have multiple holes you can attach the links to. Closer to the tractor gives more lift height, but less power.

Is yours like that? (Can you drill some extra holes?)

jb

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Here's what I did...

I started by pirating the linkages off my old broke down Iseki tractor. Both the linkages on that set-up are adjustable. I adjusted them both all the way in, and that gave me another 8-10 inches of lift.

Then I moved the bottom of each linkage to a hole closer to the tractor (like John Bud Suggested). This probably gave me another 6-8 inches.

All-in-all now my tiller raises plenty high enough off the ground.

Thanks for all the good input.

 

[3RRL]

Although shortening the top link will lift the rear of implement pretty good, it only gives you a little clearance from the ground below the lift pins on the implement ... whatever rotational clearance you gain there. The situation could have been like this where the implement is resting flush on the ground (say that's as high as it could get with the 3pt). Now, shortening the top link would lift up the rear of the implement pretty good, but the front of it only a little ... perhaps not enough clearance to move it around over rough areas? So although I agree it helps, it might not be the best solution for a real gain in clearance? And as Iplayfarmer said, he does not like the change in angle on his implement. For sure a hydraulic top link would be beneficial though.

With adjustable side links you can shorten or lengthen them, which apparently you did. Also, the different holes in the lower lift arms have an effect as to how much clearance you can add. Together, that will result in a substantial gain. Another thing to look at are the upper lift arms which are in the 3pt box. Most of those can be removed from the splined shaft and re-attached a little lower (at least on mine they can). Then when the 3pt raises up, the upper links point higher into the air, raising the lower links up higher off the ground.
That is another way to gain additional clearance.

Here is what mine look like.
The left photos shows both upper lift arms on the shaft and the right photo shows the left one removed. You can see the splines on that shaft where you can re-attach the arm at a different engagement for more or less height.
If you haven't already got the height you want, maybe consider that too?

 

[Iplayfarmer]

...Another thing to look at are the upper lift arms which are in the 3pt box. Most of those can be removed from the splined shaft and re-attached a little lower (at least on mine they can). Then when the 3pt raises up, the upper links point higher into the air, raising the lower links up higher off the ground.
That is another way to gain additional clearance.

Here is what mine look like.
The left photos shows both upper lift arms on the shaft and the right photo shows the left one removed. You can see the splines on that shaft where you can re-attach the arm at a different engagement for more or less height.
If you haven't already got the height you want, maybe consider that too?

A big part of me is kicking myself for not waiting until you posted this suggestion. It just seems like so much more elegant of a solution than what I came up with.

The rest of me is actually glad I did what I did because I've given myself significantly more clearance, but I still have your suggestion to keep in my back pocket should I need even more. I checked and I my arms come off pretty easily with just a snap ring.

 

[3RRL]

A big part of me is kicking myself for not waiting until you posted this suggestion. It just seems like so much more elegant of a solution than what I came up with.

The rest of me is actually glad I did what I did because I've given myself significantly more clearance, but I still have your suggestion to keep in my back pocket should I need even more. I checked and I my arms come off pretty easily with just a snap ring.

I think your solution is great.
You did what you needed to and got 'er done. Man, I admire that!
I'm sorry for not posting earlier but I thought for sure someone would've mentioned that already. If yours are held on by a snap ring, that's easier than the 2 bolts and washer I have to take off. At least now you know you can make other adjustments if needed.