OK, so you've been to the dealer, bought tractor, Drag boxes, blades, ect. Now you give it a try and make your landsaping or road a virtual mess. Before I go and screw more stuff up... Is there any places to go to learn how to properly use this stuff? I checked the local comm college and they only offer stuff in landscaping like how to plant a tulip... and I've even tried to give the local highway dept a 200.00 spiff just to let me ride along on a grater or something, which was immediately shot down due to they said that even being a spectator insurance would't cover me. Local Tractor dealer can't give me an answer. Somebody has to teach stuff like this... Rick, Chesterfield, Va. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Implement Use instruction
- Thread starter JD790
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Whiskey
Platinum Member
JD790:
OK, I have my knee high boots on.......start laying out the questions, someone here can answer. I have 790maybe I can help.
or you can post in the attachment section for what ever attachment your having problems with
OK, I have my knee high boots on.......start laying out the questions, someone here can answer. I have 790maybe I can help.
or you can post in the attachment section for what ever attachment your having problems with
Maybe I should have used the word "technique" of using this stuff... OK, like when I use my box drag to level out loose dirt, I manage to dig a 5 foot wide trench thru the hardground, and I never get it level, or near it. And like when I use my 3 pt rear blade to try to "crown" my road, I tear thru the road base and dig a ditch... a **** of a ditch. I have noticed that one thing that is giving me a heck of a fit is that, when using any rear implement, if I cross uneven ground, the tractor going up and down raises and lowers the implement with it. This is when I have the most problems... cause it gouges the ground or lifts all the way off it. What would be nice is that if my tractor would let the implement "float". The front bucket will float, but I see no way for rear to float.
daTeacha
Veteran Member
That's a problem common to most rear implements. One solution is to go slow enough that you can raise or lower the implement to compensate for the first couple of passes, then try moving a little faster with the implement set a bit higher than you'd like things to end up.
In short, think of grading like using a hand plane on a piece of wood. Try to take too big a bite at once and you have a big mess, but do it a little at at time and it'll be okay.
In short, think of grading like using a hand plane on a piece of wood. Try to take too big a bite at once and you have a big mess, but do it a little at at time and it'll be okay.
I was kinda lucky, my first expierence with a Box Blade was leveling 1/2 acre that had been tilled. Lots of dirt to play with and had all the time I needed to get it right.
After about the 3rd day I finaly got a handle on raising and lowering the 3point at the right time. Still miss ocasionaly but am pretty comfortable leveling stuff now. One trick is to hit a high spot from the side and at diferent angles.
It just takes practice, fixing the mistakes is part of the learning process and will improve your skills in the long run.
After about the 3rd day I finaly got a handle on raising and lowering the 3point at the right time. Still miss ocasionaly but am pretty comfortable leveling stuff now. One trick is to hit a high spot from the side and at diferent angles.
It just takes practice, fixing the mistakes is part of the learning process and will improve your skills in the long run.
djradz
Veteran Member
As daTeacha suggests, first and foremost, only take a little off at a time, and get that spread out evenly before taking more. When you start, often things are pretty level, so you want to maintain that. Also, going in an opposite direction helps sometimes, such that you won't be riding the dips and highs in the same sequence and thereby adding to them. Also, at least with a rear blade, you can angle it, so that anything you do is spread out over a greater distance in length.
3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
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- 6,931
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- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
Rick,
Yes, as these guys have said, it's the high points that give you fits. You want to knock them down to obtain a more level surface making the rest of the grading much easier.
Another method to remove the high points that works for me is to back into it using the rear part of the box blade pushing the high point off. If the area just before the high point is level, your tires are on level gound and the blade will not dip up and down like when you're driving OVER the high point.
This still takes some practice and make sure you don't dig in too deep this way. Also, watch the strain on your lower links so you don't bend them, although I have had no problem with that myself. Once you've knocked down the high point, raise the boxblade up and keep going in reverse past the pile and then switch directions (forward) and you can drag that pile where you want.
Yes, as these guys have said, it's the high points that give you fits. You want to knock them down to obtain a more level surface making the rest of the grading much easier.
Another method to remove the high points that works for me is to back into it using the rear part of the box blade pushing the high point off. If the area just before the high point is level, your tires are on level gound and the blade will not dip up and down like when you're driving OVER the high point.
This still takes some practice and make sure you don't dig in too deep this way. Also, watch the strain on your lower links so you don't bend them, although I have had no problem with that myself. Once you've knocked down the high point, raise the boxblade up and keep going in reverse past the pile and then switch directions (forward) and you can drag that pile where you want.
rambler
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2003
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- 1,994
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- MN
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- Ford 960, 7700, TW20, 1720; IHC H, 300; Ollie S77
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Maybe I should have used the word "technique" of using this stuff... OK, like when I use my box drag to level out loose dirt, I manage to dig a 5 foot wide trench thru the hardground, and I never get it level, or near it. And like when I use my 3 pt rear blade to try to "crown" my road, I tear thru the road base and dig a ditch... a **** of a ditch. I have noticed that one thing that is giving me a heck of a fit is that, when using any rear implement, if I cross uneven ground, the tractor going up and down raises and lowers the implement with it. This is when I have the most problems... cause it gouges the ground or lifts all the way off it. What would be nice is that if my tractor would let the implement "float". The front bucket will float, but I see no way for rear to float. )</font>
95% of all tractors have 3pt float as the only choice. With the rear blade on, put the 3pt all the way down, & you are in float mode.
To make the rear blade more agressive, lengthen the top link.
To make it less agresseve, shorten the top link.
To make it not agessive at all, turn the blade around & it just spreads the fines.
To level the washboards from a road, angle your blade. It will then be hitting a high & low at the same time, & several passes will level it off.
--->Paul
95% of all tractors have 3pt float as the only choice. With the rear blade on, put the 3pt all the way down, & you are in float mode.
To make the rear blade more agressive, lengthen the top link.
To make it less agresseve, shorten the top link.
To make it not agessive at all, turn the blade around & it just spreads the fines.
To level the washboards from a road, angle your blade. It will then be hitting a high & low at the same time, & several passes will level it off.
--->Paul
jimainiac
Platinum Member
JD790, Ah feel yo' pain... You're in the same boat a lot of us are in, learning by doing, making mistakes and getting experience. It's nice to be lucky enough to have an experienced operator to show how it's done, but the next best thing is having these forums to ask for advice. The tricky part for me is trying to survive some of the bonehead mistakes I make. (Don't ask me how I found out that the tractor can be tilted so far that the hydraulics won't work).
RalphVa
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
- Messages
- 7,885
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA, USA
- Tractor
- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
The manual that came with my back blade described all points of adjustment except the tilt. Couldn't figure that out, even after looking over it carefully, etc. Only way to tilt it is by using the 3 ph screw that is normally used for levelling it. You get a tilt by making it not level. The manual just leaves you blank on this adjustment. Guess it's supposed to be intuitive.
Ralph
Ralph
