Implement Hook-up 101

[Podunkadunk]

Alright, I need help. As stated previously, I am new to the "tractor owning realm". The last time I drove a tractor (before buying this one) was when I was 15/16 years old helping a farmer down the dirt road from my house. Most of the time, he had implements we'd be using that day already hooked up when I got there. I'll be the first to admit, if it weren't for the owner manual and a few things on TBN, I wouldn't know squat about my tractor. (I'm still reading it).

My question is: What's the easiest and quickest way to hook up my implements? I can hook up the boom, no problem...'cause I can man-handle it. The boxblade and the bushhog is a beeeeyotch.

Is there a certain procedure to follow? Should I have someone with me every time to operate the tractor (moving forward or back to align)? There's got to be a trick to it! One side before the other, top first, then bottom, vice versa, etc...

What's the ticket, short of buying those fancy attachments that I see advertised everywhere (quick hookups)?

Signed,
Podunkadunk in Cluelessville.

 

[AlanB]

Dolly's or those pats, "fancy attachments" or a quick hitch.

For my money, I just wished I had bought the pats sooner.

we use a PHD a lot though.

 

[Podunkadunk]

Dolly's or those pats, "fancy attachments" or a quick hitch.

For my money, I just wished I had bought the pats sooner.

we use a PHD a lot though.

About 90% of what you said may as well be in "Greek"!

What's a Dolly?
What's a pat?
What's a PHD, unless you have a Doctor on call who helps you hook up your bottom plow????

 

[cmhyland]

Podunk....

Do you own a rubber mallet? That is the first place to start...

Dollies work great but you have to have a solid surface to roll them on.

Landscape rakes and rotary cutters are a little big for dollies.

Does your machine have adjustable lower links? They help in hookups.

Make sure when you take things like the rake off you block them up to make reconnecting easier.

Try to always make your connections on a level surface.

Hope that helps.... I love my rubber mallet...

Regards,
Chris

 

[Podunkadunk]

Ok, that kind of "Dolly". I thought it may be some farming piece I haven't heard of.

I have the adjustable linkages for "faster" (oxymoron) hook-ups. I haven't tried the rubber mallot trick, but I know the heel of my boot has got some usage.

I sprayed the mount pins and balls with liquid wrench for some lube...helped some, but still have to get someone to help me hook stuff up. Wifey is getting good at operating the tractor Wait, I want her to think "tractor is evil", don't go near..., men only. I better figure out how to do it myself.

I'll try the mallot trick next hook up. I don't feel so badly now that I know other people have the same hard time I do.

 

[jeffinsgf]

You know what a Johnson Bar is? One is very valuable for your issue. If you don't know what it is, think of about a 7 foot long tapered oak plank with a steel shelf at the bottom and two heavy cast iron wheels. It's sort of like a two wheeled dolly where the back got extended to twice its normal length, the angle between the back the the bottom got opened up to about 130 degrees and the width is squished down to about 5 inches.

Warehouses and truckers used to use them to nudge big crates into position. Now they just bash them with a forklift. That big lever lets you carefully tweak the angle and position of one corner of an implement. Downside is, the implement has to be on a hard surface -- a Johnson bar is not very effective on dirt.

Having been in your position about 2 years ago, I can assure you that it does get easier. Each time there's just a little less cussing.

One really great idea I read here on TBN is to set your rotary cutter down with the stump jumper on top of an old tire. That would give it some lateral play. I haven't tried this yet, but I am going to next time I use my MX-5.

 

[wushaw]

Practice, practice, practice. It will take a little time but it does get easier, you will be one with your tractor soon.

 

[Chuckatuck]

Sometimes the boot heel; but, most of the time it's my steel toe (even with 'adjustable' links). Did use a rubber mallet and 'breaker bar' to get my pto shaft locked on the tractor pto. The little tool box on my DX33 came in handy!

I am no pro, but have found the "level" ground to be a key component of success. The curse words and busted knuckles are another way to cope with the exercise!!

 

[dsgsr]

Podunkadunk, What do you have for a tractor? The only thing I see in your profile is a lawn mower, usually the implements for a lawn mower one can man handle enough too connect. If you have a larger machine with a real 3pt ( 3 point hitch) Practice backing up to the attachment/implement so the center of the tractor is lined up with the center of the attachment. If you are on uneven ground connect the lower draft arm/pin first, lift 3pt lever until attachment is level connect other draft arm and then the top third point. If the attachment is cockeyed to the machine, connect the closest draft arm/pin, move the tractor forward or aft to line up the other draft arm/pin.
If you have extendable links this will all be much easier, you will still have to read your manual about the sway links that determine how far apart your draft arms are from each other. Thats a good starting point, there is much more to learn. One thing at a time

David

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I grew up around tractors. Dad had me running them by 10 or 11. Hooked and unhooked many an implement then. It wasn't long after I was on my own that I owned tractors. Most of the time there's been at least 3 or 4 around. 35 years of small time farming with lots of 3 point equipment. Still playing around with them. Just a guess, but I might have hooked/unhooked 3 point implements over 15,000 times. It gets easier with practice. Hope it doesn't take you 15,000 times to get the hang of it.

Best advice I have to offer is spot equipment where it's easy to back up to it just as you pulled away when you unhook. You'll get better with practice at spotting the tractor in the right spot before you unload from the operators seat. Some implements ARE a bear to hook up. I've owned a Woods box blade for 3 years and haven't hardly scratched the paint yet. I DETEST hooking that thing to a tractor. It is the one thing that has made me think about a quick hitch.

On a lot of the "older" implements, say those from the '60's, the implement owners manual usually has the manufacturers suggested method of hooking up. It's astounding how much you can learn from the people who design and build this stuff!

 

[kentrodngun]

Try a cheapie ($69) quick hitch like:
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
If you buy it, don't forget an adapter too item #29309 (~$9).

I struggled with heavy implements like the brush hog and the quick hitch does help. Not the "attaches implements in seconds" like some of the ads say, BUT it does save the back, heels, shoe tips & convincing the reluctant wife to "help" you hook up whatever it is.

 

[Podunkadunk]

All,
I appreciate the advice, lessons learned and valuable experience you've shared with me. I'll take it all and run with it. Level ground is NOT under any of my attachments...but, I'll hook to 'em and move 'em to level ground out of the way....hmmm, might be a good pitch to my wife about getting that pole barn built

I have an 07 Kubota L3130, HST 4x4. It has the extendable attachment arms and sometimes they work better than others. I think the key is level ground and being lined up properly. I was HOPING that someone had the secret handshake per se and I'd get off easy.

Sometimes it's just not that way.

I think I may check into the quick attach system. If it saves me 5 minutes and brow sweat (not to mention an excessive use of expletives), it'll be worth every penny.

Thanks again.
Podunk

 

[jbrumberg]

Podunkadunk:

Leaving the attachments blocked up and on as level a surface as possible with the ability to back up as you pulled out helps. So does kicking, swearing, rubber malleting, "crowbarring", as well as the judicious use of a "straight pick/long bar". The more I attach and detach the implements the easier it gets. I usually have more trouble withe the PTO driveline locking pins, balls, rings, and collars , Jay

 

[LoneCowboy]

Flat ground helps
keep the implement level helps (for example, I put a 4x4 under the bushhog, keeps it level)

You have to be able to move the lower arms side to side, that's 90% of the secret on a cat 1 hitch.

one person driving, one person hooking is much faster than just one person.

assuming your hitch is empty
remove the pins that hold your 3-point arms side to side, swing them all teh way out, keep the top-link up and out of the way.

back the tractor up to the implement, keep lots of those extra pins, I just keep sets on each implemnt so I'm not looking for them.
Get it even,
hook up PTO shaft FIRST
back up a little more,
kick one side on, it will always move a bit, put the pin in.
walk around it, don't hit head on the FEL, kick the other side on. (who said rubber mallet??????? need a sledgehammer, or a boot heel), put pin in

then, put the top link on, get it close
Pull tractor forward to level spot, set your top link correct (always different for each implement)
Put pins back in to hold side to side movement
done, drive off.

Implements that hook up in the middle (usually cat 2 or heavy cat 1 stuff) are WAYYYY easier to hook up, you slide the pin, rather than moving the arms side to side.

 

[AlanB]

Sorry, thought you were a former soldier as well so you would no I could not write anything out... Hooah.

If you have concrete, and can place your implements on the little furniture dollies, or some home made dollies similar to that makes it nice. Downside is it takes concrete, of which I have none.

(PATS) We have the Pat's easy change system on ours, but if you have the adjustable links you should not really need it as much.

PHD is a Post Hole Digger. If you use a PHD a lot (wife is a landscaper, probably our most used tool) the design of most PHD's means that you cannot use the standard type quick hitch like what you can buy at TSC or at Harbor Freight. You would have to take off the quick hitch, each time you went to use the PHD and there would be nothing "quick" about that.

If you have the adjustable lower arms I think you are just needing practice and level ground, the smoother you can drop the attachment, say the mower sitting on some wood blocks so the lift arms are in the middle of the range when you disconnect, the better off you are. At some point, it is all just practice.

As too hooking and unhooking implements with the wife, I would rather just do it myself. For whatever reason, when I get my hands etc. down in harms way, it seems that she has never operated the tractor in her life and cannot for the life of her figure out what all them levers and gizmo's do.... (she is a good operator, just not with my hands in the danger zone)

We have had more then one close call, and at this point, I would rather do it myself, if I loose a finger because I did something stupid is one thing, if she operates a lever that causes me too lose it, that would be rough.

A big metal bar is handy to nudge things into place.

Your lift arms will lift up with your hands, but will not go down, so set them slightly below the attachment points when you go to hook up.

 

[cmhyland]

Podunk,
I have a Kubota B2910, it is the predescessor to your machine.

back up to the implement alligned as possible but stay forward 8 or 10 inches.

Lower the 3pt. and put the machine in low range and leave it running.

Pull the clevis pins and pins out of the sway control bars.

line up the implement and stand to the right side and bump reverse
with your hand. Turn the wheel if you must to get final alignment.

raise the 3pt to allign the lower hitchpins. release and extend the ends.

Line up the pin and coax them on and install your keeper pins.

Align and install the toplink.

Lift the implement and center. Lower in the centered position and reinstall the pins and clevis pind in the sway control bars.

Make final adjustments to center and level adjustment and off you go.

I hook up my landscape rake, chipper, rotary cutter each in about 3 to 4 minutes.

Regards,
Chris

p.s. I lover my rubber mallet.....

 

[dapper]

Podunkadunk
I hear ya! I have been hooking up 3pt attachments for more years than I like to admit, and it still can be a bear. Everyone is right, it will get easier…. Sometimes! As others have said the best thing is to try to LEAVE the implement in as near level position as you can when you take it off. Try to block it up or support the equipment so that the lower lift arms will slip OFF with out fighting them. That way the arms won’t be all the way down or all the way up when you want to hook back up. That should give you some up and down wiggle room. Don’t forget that one arm should have an adjustment on it to raise or lower one side of the arm to meet the hitch. Also helps to be able to back into the implement in as straight a line as possible when you drop the implement. This helps in aligning when you want to pick it back up. This seems to be twice as difficult if you park the implements inside. I have used many combinations of methods like, attaching top link first, (back blade)and then moving tractor forward or back. To hooking up one side and dragging other side into submission (seldom works, but can make you feel better.. until you bend the pin…) Sometimes it helps to have a large pry bar handy also. The rubber mallet is a good idea though. Haven’t tried that one. Please be careful when KICKING the ball onto the pin, as one miss and you will be on your butt with a banged up ankle in a heartbeat! Wanta see the bruises? And oh yeah, make SURE Wife can drive the tractor…. 
Good luck!

 

[uphill]

At 55 years of age, I'm past the time I can fight implements like a heavy disc.
I bought a SpeeCo quickhitch and now I can backup to anything and drive away in about 1 minute. Cost is a couple hundred and $22 for pin adapters which fit on each implement, but that's not much after you've bought 6 or more implements which every tractor owner usually does.
No more prybars, skint fingers, and hurting back! After years of fighting, it's just about too easy.

 

[MossRoad]

I used to have a tractor with a three point hitch. It was huge and changing implements was a big pain. Practice and a 4' crow bar kept in the cab got it down to not too bad a chore, but still a strain on the back. I bought a Power Trac 75% because of the front mounted attachments and the quick attach system. (Click here to see video of me changing implements in 15 seconds). Had I kept my 3pt hitch tractor, I would definately invest in some sort of quick attach system. It is the only way to go if you have to change implements often. Saves your back, hands and sanity.

 

[Pooh_Bear]

I have all my implements lined up facing down a slight hill.
I back up my 8N to an implement as straight as I can.
I drop the lower lift arms down almost to the pins.
I back up a little past where I need to be.
I put the tractor in first gear and shut it off and get off.
I check the lower lift arms to see how straight I am and how far forward
I need to let the tractor roll. If the tractor is a little crooked that is ok.
I reach up with my hand and gently mash the clutch to let the tractor roll
forward a bit. Just enough to line up the first pin. Attach that side.
Do the same thing again for the other side. May have to push the tractor
a little this time cause the first pin will hold it in place. If the tractor won't
roll then I get a T post and pry the implement into place. Then attach the
lower lift arm. Then attach the top link. Works fairly easy.

Yes it is unsafe to use your hand to mash the clutch while standing
in front of the rear tire on a slope. But this slope isn't much, and I don't
mash it completely, just enough to let it roll a bit. I feel safe in doing so.
I may have fluff for brains but I'm still smarter than the average bear.

Pooh Bear