ignition timing 4 cyl wisconsin

[hotwired]

Please dont shoot me for posting this.Have had misfortune to work on and around 4 cyl many years ? have found that when timing was changed due to broken distributor or shaft or gears and the factory timing changed have seen wisc mechanics do their thing timing light etc etc they always got engines running but not like before timing was altered, most machines that have 4 cyl will run and operate out of time but due to raw fuel going into cylinders and not ignited causes cylinders to wear out before they should,my ? is any sure fire way to time an engine,I once saw an old shade tree mechanic that would only way to time an engine properly he would take cylinder head off and then set timing he claimed this is only way to time an engine due to wear in gears and shafts.if you examine the timing procedure on the manuals the engine will run but not be timed right.Any one have any pros or cons on this.

 

[Boomerang1]

You can time an engine by sound. With the engine running, turn the distributor until the engine idles the fastest. This will be the most advanced timing. Shut off the engine and restart. if the engine cranks hard, you have too much timing so you can ****** it just a little. When timing cars I would put the transmission in drive and with my foot on the brake, I would give it a little gas. If the engine pinged, I would ****** the timing a little. A engine will have its best power when the timing is advanced and usually will get the best mileage when retarded. Here is how to time from scratch, pull out #1 sparkplug, put thumb on sparkplug hole and have some one crank the engine a little bit until your thumb gets pushed away from compresson. This is top dead center compression stroke. Put in the distributor with the rotor pointing at the #1 sparkplug hole. Wire distributor per factory specs making sure the #1 wire on the distributor is directly above the end of the rotor which is pointed at the #1 cylinder. With the key on, you can static time the points by watching them spark when you turn the distributor back and forth. The engine should fire right up and then you can adjust timing where it need be.

 

[Bully]

We had one of the mechanics work on a Wesc. V4. He was tring to get it running. I was from a GSA auction. after he got it running it lasted about 15 min. then it would run ruogh. He tore it down, and it had blown the head gasket. he replaced it, then ran it again. After that, 15 min. or so the engine blew another. this time the gases had etched the head between the cylinders. we found that the timing was too far advanced. This engine used a Teladyne mag. and was very hard to time, due to the way it will snap at TDC. and most of the time the person on the end of the mag. is the easiest path to ground. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[skipmarcy]

Your story shows how critical timing is on cylinder temp. - especially an air-cooled engine. The manufacturer knows what timing is best for their design and the most accurate way to adjust it is with a timing light. If the engine doesn't run well with it set properly, it either wasn't set properly or there is something else wrong with the engine. Over the years I've seen many, many mechanical advances inside distributors bad - this will cause performance problems. I've seen guys try to set the timing with the engine running way too fast for spec. or a vacuum advance not disconnected (or connected) when it was supposed to be etc. I have fixed so many performance problems over the years on autos by just hooking up the proper vacuum to the distributor - a majority required ported vacuum but would have manifold vacuum to it, making it work just the opposite of what it was designed for. It wouldn't take long for an air cooled piston to melt a hole in it from preignition from having the timing advanced 8 or 10 degrees too far and under load, that is if the head gasket or something else doesn't go first !! Follow the proper timing procedure, if it doesn't run right, diagnose what is really wrong with it !!

 

[hotwired]

To skipmarcy timing 4 cylinder engines, our post was all true,but have been thinking for years on making a device for correct timing but i dont have any reaso to build one, Take and make a threaded pipe to fit spark plug holes screw in put a compression guage inline with a bulb from a timing light near the guage hook no 1 plug wire to timing light bulb turn over engine and the compression guage when no 1 piston gets at exactly tdc the guage will peak and the bulb will light then move distributer to set timing the dwell on the points will have to be set in case of 4 cyl wisconsin 28 degrees before tdc it appears this would work on any engine if you remember a few years back you set the points on gm products with a dwell meter also a degree wheel or chart could be set with above to correctly set the tdc or atdc timing, an old man trying to reinvent the wheel.thank you.

 

[skipmarcy]

Don't forget - ignition spark occurs when the points open, not when they close !! I've had to remove #1 plug on many engines over the years and bring the piston up TDC - I've used a stick of plastic or wood and let it rest on the piston and turn the engine by hand to find TDC - can get very close, even closer if you have room to set up a dial indicator. Then you make a reference mark of your own on a balancer or pulley and the block, then use a timing light to get accurate setting - luckily I've had a Snap-On light with adjustable advance capabilties for years - this is great to check your mechanical as well as vacuum advances too. Yes, dwell must be set before adjusting timing too - if you don't have access to a dwell meter, just be sure you get the closest setting with a feeler gauge that you can. Also the biggest mistake people making when servicing points is not lubing the rubbing block which will wear down very quickly, thus changing dwell which in turn changes the timing. Don't use axle grease either - NAPA has great point lube with moly that won't sling off and get on the contacts. Another point is that manufacturers usually have a coating on the point contacts to keep them from corroding while on the shelf - a swipe or two on a clean matchbook cover or even a clean T-shirt will remove this preservative and save some grief.