I need advice on Hydraulics

[ajflyfishing]

I would like to add a indepentent hydraulic pump on my CK25 to run a cutter bar. I don't know much about hydraulics. I could always us an existing line. But I don't really want to loose any bucket control on my FEL.

 

[dfkrug]

What's a cutter bar?

The CK25 has an excellent hydraulic system, and factory remotes
make running hydraulic implements very convenient.

 

[IslandTractor]

You need to find out what sort of hydraulic flow per minute the "cutter bar" needs and compare that to the CK25 output. If it is compatable with the CK25 output, then as dfkrug states, you should install a set of rear remotes and add the appropriate quick connectors and hose then you'll be all set.

 

[ajflyfishing]

The cutter is something new to me (Samurai Sabre), the web site is Saber Samurai.. File attached.
According to the book: To function correctly, the Samurai requires 0.4 to 1.0 hp (0.3 to 0.8 kW). The hydraulic oil flow required at an operating speed of 250 rpm is 3.3 gal/min (.21 L/s). Hydraulic pressure during normal operation is less that 500 psi (3 450 kPa). A hydraulic pump supplying at least 5 gal/min (o.3 L/s) should have adequate flow to operate the Samurai . Most tractor and equiment hydraulic systems can easily supply this oil flow with out affecting the performance of other hydraulically driven components.
Sorry about being long winded. I would like to T off one of the existing lines and add a quick connect, but not sure.
You guys had a lot to do with me buy a Kioti. Bought one in Dec.'06. Best move I made in '06. Thanks in advance for your help. I won't be so long winded next time.

 

[mrutkaus]

I would not try to T an existing line and put in a quick connect, I don't believe it is that simple.

Get a remote kit and install it; see my current post with pictures on installing the remote kit.

Mike

 

[IslandTractor]

I would not try to T an existing line and put in a quick connect, I don't believe it is that simple.

Get a remote kit and install it; see my current post with pictures on installing the remote kit.

Mike

I just looked at the Samuri Sabre webpage. Nifty looking device. Interesting that it is temporarily attached to the FEL bucket and that certainly has an impact on how you will plumb the hydraulics.

I don't think there is any question that the CK25 puts out enough hydraulic flow to run the thing. The issue you will have is how to install hydraulics.

As it is attached to the FEL, you will need to be able to move the FEL to position it. You might be able to get away with losing your curl/dump function to run it off a diverter but I don't think that sounds like a good plan myself.

If I were you I would do as Mike says. You need a pair of remotes and a way to control on/off. Your CK25 is set up with either a yellow lever on the right side in-board of the position control lever, or there is an empty slot there that can be used for a lever to control a set of rear remotes. (I am assuming here, perhaps incorrectly, that the CK25 is set up similarly to the CK20...I'm quite sure the CK25 will be set up with space for the "yellow lever" but it might not be in the same location as it is on the CK20). As you don't have any remotes yet, the slot may be empty but the rear remote kit would include the necessary valves and control lever. You'll probably need to buy a couple sets of quick connect fittings as well. I think Mike got his stuff from Rick Wallace as I recall and that would be a good way to get all the stuff you need as Rick can also supply the hoses and fittings necessary to plumb from the rear remote fittings at the back of the tractor to the FEL.

If it were me I'd do it with just two long runs of hose and simply zip tie them into place taking care to keep the lines out of harms way under the tractor then up the FEL post (careful of abrasion points) and then down the FEL arm to a spot on the torque tube. There is another choice you'll need to make: At the torque tube you could install a set of brackets and terminate the lines from the rear remote with a set of quick connects. You'd then have another 5-6 foot set of lines attached to the Samurai with quick connects and make the connection at the torque tube spot each time you go to use the Samuri. Alternatively, you could just have one longer set of hydraulic hoses that go all the way from the rear remote couplings to the Samurai (zip tied as before) and in that case you would remove all the lines each time as otherwise you'd have 6 feet or more of two hydraulic hoses flopping about on your FEL.

If you get advice from Rick Wallace he can provide all the parts including hoses cut to the right lengths etc. If you have a full service local dealer they could probably do the same for you but they might be more interested in having you bring the tractor in for them to work on. Do read Mike's post and decide if you are up for the self install before proceeding. Good luck.

 

[dfkrug]

The cutter is something new to me (Samurai Sabre), the web site is Saber Samurai.. File attached.
According to the book: To function correctly, the Samurai requires 0.4 to 1.0 hp (0.3 to 0.8 kW). The hydraulic oil flow required at an operating speed of 250 rpm is 3.3 gal/min (.21 L/s). Hydraulic pressure during normal operation is less that 500 psi (3 450 kPa). A hydraulic pump supplying at least 5 gal/min (o.3 L/s) should have adequate flow to operate the Samurai . Most tractor and equiment hydraulic systems can easily supply this oil flow with out affecting the performance of other hydraulically driven components.
Sorry about being long winded. I would like to T off one of the existing lines and add a quick connect, but not sure.
.

That looks like a hydraulicly-powered sickle bar mower. The CK25/30
has 8.3 GPM available for implements, so that is fine.

I agree with IslandTractor that an electric diverter valve that steals
hyd flow from the curl circuit is not the best choice cuz you may want to
be constantly adjusting the curl as you mow/trim.

Plumbing all the way to the front from the rear remote valve is a mess,
however. And the lines to a hydraulic motor should be 3/8" or 1/2"
to keep fluid heating down for this hi-duty cycle application.
As stated, you do not "T" into pressure lines to add hydraulic circuits.
This approach, however, may be better than the diverter approach.

 

[coasterez]

You could mount the remotes upfront on the loader rather than in back.

 

[IslandTractor]

Plumbing all the way to the front from the rear remote valve is a mess

It is not really that bad.

Rear remote couplings are just below the fuel tank on the right side. Quick connect terminals. From there it takes a roughly 15-18ft line in one piece to loop under the tractor by going over the left rear axle, along the underside of the work platform, up the left FEL post, over the top of the FEL post, along the FEL arm down to the torque bar where you either terminate or just keep going directly to the FEL bucket attachment site of the sickle mower. The option is to terminate at the torque bar and use a second set of lines to get to the sickle bar. Benefit of one line is simplicity and lower cost (only need two sets rather than four sets of quick couplers). Benefit of two lines is that you could leave the line in place up to the torque bar and make that a semi permanent installation (like I do with my grapple lines).

It isn't really such a "mess" although I understand someone might prefer not to have the hydraulic lines snaking through the tractor. With a dozen or so cable ties you can secure the hydraulic lines pretty well. I do use a few pieces of duct tape at possible abrasion points to protect the lines but you could also use the polyester hose armour tubes for that instead.

As rear remotes are generally more useful than front remotes, I would personally install the remotes in the traditional spot and live with the "mess". If the untidy appearance is bothersome then just use the one set of hoses strategy and take it all down after finishing mowing. Would only take about ten minutes to set it up and five to take it apart once you got used to it.

 

[ajflyfishing]

I like the idea of terminating the hoses in front in order to quick connect the power head when needed. I would like to order the kit and hoses needed, could you let me know how to reach him?
Will I have a control to start and stop the power head?
You guys are great, I sure would like to make this work got a lot of briars to cut. And when done someone else maybe able to use one.
The pics where great.