Buying Advice I need a tractor for...

[docbets]

Thanks in advance for any help forthcoming.

I have 38 acres, of which 10 are in nut orchards handled by someone else; 8 in woods that might need a tractor for pulling deadfalls out and for pulling out brush when we cut it up; a horseback riding arena (80 x 200) that needs a tractor to pull a dragger to level the heavy sand (cut, heavy sand, almost all rock, very little dirt); roughly 15 acres of horse pastures to mow with bush hog that will chop as it goes; maybe a flail or similar implement to decimate the blackberries that threaten to choke out everything, though this may be a job to hire out.

Potential future uses include pulling a small manure spreader; possibly a front end loader to remove compost from bins; maybe (not likely) a scraper to move occasional snow.

We are in northwestern Oregon atop a knoll amid vineyards and orchards. We have a riding mower for lawn areas but it is not powerful enough to even go through the sand in the arena, let alone pull the dragger.

The two must-haves are power enough for the sand/dragger and the field mowing. Mowing has to chop up the material, since if it sits and molds, horses will eat it and get sick. (They are not too bright that way.)

The acreage on which the tractor will be used is flat and gently sloping. Field use will be all in decent weather, as it rains for five (5) months and is sloppy and muddy and a tractor will just wreck pastures in those conditions.

Okay, maybe a blade to push sand or gravel around. I really didn't want to have a tractor at all, but to hire jobs out; but have found it hard to get help when I need it. I grew up on a farm and my father used Fergusons and then Massey-Fergusons exclusively, graduating to some enormous machines. I find it all a little intimidating; my brother learned the outdoor work while we girls learned to sew and household stuff. I have no doubt I could learn the tractor, but not too keen on it. I want something easy to operate without lots of whistles and bells except insofar as they provide some important function. I hate noise. I expect to be the primary user, though there are others who will use it. Most of the hours will be mine.

Any advice on size of tractor and hitch type, and what sort of bush hog, I will be most grateful.

 

[MarkV]

Welcome to the forum. There are literally hundreds of tractor models that will do the tasks you mentioned. It would be best to go to some dealers and see what feels comfortable to you.

A couple of general suggestions from my experience. A hydrostatic transmission (HST) would be the easiest to use and learn on. No clutching or shifting to do. A tractor with a cab would keep you out of the weather and keep the noise level way down. With 15 acres to mow I would want to use a 6' mower at least. The general rule is 5 PTO horsepower per foot of mower. PTO (power take off) horse power is less than engine horse power so you would be looking at tractors in the 35 horse power range. As far as chopping up material I think of that as more a matter of how often the field is mowed rather than the type of mower. Your standard rotary mower (bush hog) will chop things up just fine if you mowing often enough.

Good luck on your search.

MarkV

 

[bigbull338]

since your going tobe running the tractor the most i to suggest an HST/automatic tractor.an i would put the fel on it from the start.a fel will allow you to feed round bales if you choose to.id look at the mx4700 hst 4x4,as itll do everything your wanting done.

 

[TripleR]

Pretty much what MarkV says, I really like the Grand L Series as for me at least they are more comfortable and have the cab as an option. My wife didn't get near a farm until after we were married and now claims the BX2660 as "her tractor" and often mows with our L5030 HSTC.

You could get by with a B3030/3000, but I like a bit more power and weight and it won't run a six foot cutter so mowing is going to take a while longer.

I have never used a flail, so I can't comment, but we get a real good quality of cut with rotary cutters.

My preference is Kubotas, but I would also look at other brands to see which one "fits" you the best and has good dealer support.

Good luck.

 

[docbets]

Thanks for the quick responses.

I appreciate the PTO explanation, and the suggestion for automatic working.

Not going to use round bales, but the front end loader may come in handy for moving around manure/compost during decompositon and when clearing out the bins.

The mowing is a sometimes thing, since optimally the horses are eating the grass and we rotate them out of eaten pastures and into new ones all year.

This year, since we just bought the place, and it was underkept and undereaten for the entire spring, everything is overgrown and in need of mowing. Another need is for trimming in smaller spaces than a six-foot mower will fit into, but not suitable for the riding mower. Probably there will be a compromise in there somewhere.

As for the cab, I don't know yet what those cost, but I'm disinclined to get one because the rainy weather precludes field work anyway. The occasional off season use for the tractor can be undertaken with raingear, since we all have it.

I thank you for your help.

 

[Verticaltrx]

Either a B3030 or Grand L3240 with a loader and 5' bush hog would be plenty IMO. Both are premium series and would be a joy to use. The 5' bush hog will get in tight places and will cut a little over an acre an hour, more if it's easy going.

Either of the aforementioned tractors will handle all of the small utility oriented tasks you mentioned easily.

The biggest difference between the two is the physical size (and price). The Grand L3240 is a much larger tractor than the B3030, which may or may not be what you want. Looking at and driving both will give you a better idea of which would be more practical for your situation.

 

[KU Gator]

In case you have not sorted out the basics on the Kubota line, maybe this will help. The letter at the start of the designation such as in B3030 determines roughly what size it is. In the case of "B", it is a compact utility tractor. The 1st two numbers are roughly the gross horse power (hp). And the final two digits give a clue as to is it a basic or more premium tractor. So the B3030 is a compact 30 hp premium tractor. The basic tractors in the B size include the B2x20 group which is smaller framed than the 3030 and the B3200 & B3300. The premium features include a better seat and tilt steering which you may or may not care about, but an important feature on the B3030 is the 3 point hitch which raises the equipment on the back such as the brush hog uses a system called position control valve. It is good because with it you can set your brush hog at the height you want to mow and it will stay there. The other B's use a system called a 1/4" valve which works nice and smooth but will not keep the mower at a set height over a prolonged period. Every 15 minutes or so you need to use the lever to raise the mower back up or it will be dragging in the dirt.

Another feature of the B's is they almost all come with both a rear PTO for the rear mower and a mid PTO in case you wanted to put a mid mount mower (MMM) on it. That may or may not be of importance to you. The B3030 suggested by Verticaltrx would probably be a good size for working in your arena or near the stall. As mentioned, it would probably be best suited to a 5' brush hog or up to a 6' rear finish mower.

The L group is bigger framed , heavier, and overall size. Like the B's, they have a basic line and a premium line. The basic line have numbers that end in 00 such as the L3800. They all have position control for the 3 pt hitch, but the basic group have a problem of being jerky when you try to raise an implement slowly. The Grand L is the premium line. Their numbers end in 40 such as the L3240. It would have similar features to the B3030, but be a bit bigger framed. The basic L's do not have an option of a mid PTO. It can be added as an option of the grand L's.

The front end loader (FEL) is a very valuable tool. You will not believe how much it helps. Also, the FEL can be removed easily with no tools and no real effort. This would be good when working in your arena as it would make it easier to work in tight confines.

I agree with Verticaltrx's estimate of mowing times per acre. Depending on how far behind I am on my mowing, it takes me between 45 minutes and 1 hour to mow an acre with a 5' brush hog. The brush hog does a decent job of mowing if I mow every 2 or three weeks when it is really growing. If I get much beyond that, it leaves more long grass laying on top of the cut grass. I have read some horse people say they mow with a rear finish mower once they get the pasture under control so they are not hitting brush, rocks, stumps, etc.

Go set on some, test drive them and start to get a feel for the tractors. But keep in mind that with practice, what seems big and intimidating at 1st, won't be a big deal in a few weeks. Also try out the dealer. If they aren't treating you like a customer should be treated before you buy, don't expect them to change after they have your money. Good luck. You probably know more than you think you do and you are no different than most of us were not so long ago.

 

[docbets]

Oh, wow. This is so helpful. I have been trying to understand what the letter and number designations mean, and you have cracked the code for me. Thank you.

I am taking in what you all have written. To tell you the truth, I am using the forum to educate myself somewhat prior to going out and kicking the tires, as I think unbiased opinions such as found here are likely to be more reliable than those of a salesperson. Of course I do have to go actually look at tractors. As a congenitally shy person, I don't look forward to that. Further, I am suffering from sticker shock as I peruse the web and check prices.

Does anyone have experience with buying used/good condition tractors such as those suggested to me here? I live near dealers in at least three brands (Kubota, Husqvarna, John Deere, maybe more) and can no doubt find something that will serve my needs; but was hoping, perhaps unrealistically, not to spend so much money. Granted, I had not a clue what tractors cost these days, but the price tags are confirming my original view that it would be cost effective to hire tractor work if only I could find someone available and reliable. So far, that has not been the case.

Thanks again to all who are helping.

 

[KU Gator]

Notice my response were in terms of Kubota because that is the forum you posted your question in and even more important, that is the only brand I am more than superficially knowledgable. I did not include that the L Kubotas are usually called utility tractors and the larger M tractors are ag tractors. But each manufacturer has their own branding system that you have to sort out much like autos or motorcycles.

Certainly there are good used tractors out there. If you have someone knowledgable that you trust who can take a look at them with you, that would be good. What many find is that tractors do not tend to depreciate as fast as cars, so when you factor in that most of the brands are offering 0% financing, and a new tractor comes with a 3 year warrenty typically, people often opt for new.

You can at local dealers though, Craigs list and tractorhouse.

Used Tractors For Sale at TractorHouse.com: John Deere Tractors, used farm tractors and farm equipment, tractors for sale, Case IH, New Holland, Agco, Kubota

 

[KU Gator]

I have never been around a horse operation, but I don't think it is realistic to try and hire all of the work done. If you only needed to have the pastures mowed, that could be planned and scheduled pretty easily. But all of the other tasks that come up like cleaning stalls, dragging the arena, etc would seem to me to be to difficult and not cost effective to hire out. You would need some one at your beck and call. Once you have a tractor with a front end loader, you will really be amazed how much you use it. I could make you a really good deal on a wheel barrow that sits in the corner of my garage because it is so much easier to use the tractor. Even when my daughter sucks me into helping at her house on some project outside I usually end up going back and getting the tractor to help get a rock out or what ever.

When we test drove them the 1st time, my wife went along. Neither of us had ran a tractor much. But it was not big deal to get on and drive them around the lot. We switched off between driving three of them 2 times each before deciding.

The levers look pretty overwhelming at 1st, but it really is not that big of a deal. One raises or lowers the 3 point hitch on the back where you would have a mower or what ever. One puts the power take off (PTO) into gear which is what makes the mower mow. One puts it in four wheel drive. And one changes the speed range. Most have 3 ranges to control power vs speed. Then it has two pedals, one for forward and one for reverse. Depending on the model, it may or may not have a clutch for when you engage the PTO. If the FEL is on it, you will also have a stick type lever which raises, lowers, dumps and curls the bucket.

You might also check about renting a tractor to get a feel for it and do some of your chores.