I don't know my own strength - oil drain elbow

[v11m]

Went to change the oil and off popped the elbow -- I really don't think I put too much torque on it -- I see where someone posted 'don't put the elbow in too far' (this came like this from the factory), but it doesn't look like it was put in very far at all.

What are my options here... anyone have the exact dimensions here?

I'd rather go with a different plug and lose the elbow, I think there is room -- that is if I still have enough thread to use (it feels like I do...).

Thanks in advance -- I reached out to Terry as well.

 

[m5040]

For anyone else new to this and changing the oil, you have to use two wrenches and support the elbow when applying torque to the cap.
For your repair you may try a brass pipe plug (not sure of size but I think it is 3/8, but the same size as the part you have in your hand). You want brass because it is softer then steel and may seal enough to get you out of the jam.

 

[m5040]

The problem is that piece that is on the threads and if there is any or enough for a new (brass) plug to seal.
They look to me like pipe thread which are tapered threads which get tighter as you turn it in.

 

[v11m]

Thanks -- that's what I have and probably what I'm going with. I've seen some of the engines come with these types of plugs -- readily available on amazon -- I think I'll stick to the simple plug. Also seen some extensions with black pipe fittings -- interesting, but probably not enough for what I need.

I do want to note that I agree with you on holding the elbow, though it's not the easiest thing to do. I didn't apply that much torque, it seems like the elbow wasn't put in very far to begin with -- 3 or 4 threads...

 

[JJT]

I'd install a Fumota valve with black, (permanent) Permatex. That way you'll never need to remove it to change the oil, you simply open the valve. You may need to weld a nut onto the pan if you don't have enough threads left to grab onto the Fumoto valve.

I've done this fix more than once for friends that have stripped their drain plugs.

A lesson I learned from an old plumber when I was in high school - "Finger tight and then no more than half a turn with a wrench....." We had many service calls where the diy home owner installed a new faucet or water heater element and could get the fitting to stop leaking, - way too tight and sometimes stripped.

 

[v11m]

@JJT - Thanks for the 'finger tight... then a half turn...' -- good lesson to learn.

I talked to Terry --
- He noted that when removing, make sure there is no torqueing side to side -- hold it and/or use an air ratchet.
- To fix, he suggested to use a 3/8 - 18 NPT (tapered pipe) tap -- make sure it is straight -- you need roughly 5 threads to 'hold'
- Reinstall elbow with Teflon tape -- don't overtighten -- See @JJT 's comment above
- Don't do it again -- ugh .

He also suggested lifting the engine, so that I have a visual -- but I'm going to try and do it in place -- flog me now or later .

 

[v11m]

To finish this out -- I was going to re-tap it, but wanted to see if at least I had enough threads left to grab -- seems like I have, but now I need a different solution. I may just go with the valve in the future assuming this holds okay.