I Broke It $ $ $ 3400 HST

ctpres · May 13, 2007

Hit big low tree limb with rops. Now have a BAD leak around or behind rops attachment point to axel housing. Any ideas how much this might cost or is this a DIY possibility?

bamatoolmaker · May 13, 2007

It dont sound good.

ncnewbie · May 13, 2007

OUCH!!!!!!

Piperflyer · May 13, 2007

Run an email off to Messick Equipment

Bob_Young · May 13, 2007

OW! Tree limbs (and trees that lean or spread)....why I'll never be able to own a cab tractor. And why my ROPs are either always folded or removed. If I trimmed them all for the tractors, it'd take months and I'd have a brush pile the size of a large house...ain't never gonna happen.

First hour I operated my B7610, I had 3 ROPS induced accidents/incidents. That's 3 more accidents than happened in the previous 4 decades of operating ROPs-less Ag tractors.

Ya gotta know when to fold 'em. Ya gotta know not to roll 'em.
Bob

RoyJackson · May 13, 2007

If you can't determine where the fluid is coming from, you'll have to get it to a dealer.
No way to determine if it's a DIY job (are you OK with repairs?)

Considering how well the ROPS is bolted on my 790, I'm guessing (GUESSING!!!) you've cracked a casting the ROPS is bolted to. That would explain the leakage.

If that's the case...well, it's going to be major, I think...I hope not, but that's what I think.

8226hamer · May 13, 2007

RoyJackson said:
If you can't determine where the fluid is coming from, you'll have to get it to a dealer.
No way to determine if it's a DIY job (are you OK with repairs?)

Considering how well the ROPS is bolted on my 790, I'm guessing (GUESSING!!!) you've cracked a casting the ROPS is bolted to. That would explain the leakage.

If that's the case...well, it's going to be major, I think...I hope not, but that's what I think.

If it is the casting and and I bet it is, and depending on how bad it it damaged, I would try to fix the break. A good welder may save you alot of money.

RoyJackson · May 13, 2007

8226hamer said:
If it is the casting and and I bet it is, and depending on how bad it it damaged, I would try to fix the break. A good welder may save you alot of money.

If it turns out the be a broken casting (I hope it's not...but I think that's what it is), consult a dealer or service tech on this before considering a weld repair.
Welding may work, but all that heat (and I think the Kubota castings are aluminum, which conducts heat easier then steel) could damage bearings, races or seals. So, think about that before you tow the tractor to your local welder.

Good luck!

john_bud · May 14, 2007

It sounds like you have done some major damage. Look where the ROPS bolts to the housing. Wipe it down good and maybe spray it with brake cleaner. Use a good bright light and inspect for cracks. If it is cracked, the ROPS is probably wobbly. Hopefully, it's just a broken bolt or some such.

If it is a cracked housing, sign up for yoga classes. You'll need the extra flexibility when you see the estimate. Probably in the $3-4,000 range for a repair.

Now for some potential good news. If you were on your own property and you have home owner insurance, you may be covered. Call and check, can't hurt.

jb

RoyJackson · May 15, 2007

So, any follow up on this incident?

_RaT_ · May 15, 2007

RoyJackson said:
If it turns out the be a broken casting (I hope it's not...but I think that's what it is), consult a dealer or service tech on this before considering a weld repair.
Welding may work, but all that heat (and I think the Kubota castings are aluminum, which conducts heat easier then steel) could damage bearings, races or seals. So, think about that before you tow the tractor to your local welder.

Good luck!

I think your confusing the Kubotas with the John Deere 4X10 series, those are aluminum, the Kubotas are cast iron. I broke a lower link connection point on my L3830. I went to tractorsmart.com, looked at the parts schematic they provide and in 2 days not only had the part, but installed it myself. I did have to drain the oil down and clean up the RR work area.

ctpres · May 22, 2007

Follow-up. Yes it is a bad crack, not hairline. Crack is between both top bolt holes and extends one onch or so on both sides. Bad enough that top bolts won't tighten and material may have fallen inside housing so I am not moving it till I know more. It is cast iron, but I don't think I'll try to have it welded. So we are down to DIY or dealer. Have studied parts breakdown and can't tell if it is something I can do. On the surface it looks easy. Remove wheel, remove and reinstall housing and wheel. What I can't tell is degree of diffuculty with seals and how axel connects to drive line. Any ideas appreciated.

RobJ · May 22, 2007

On my L the ROPS sort of clamps onto the axle housing. But I looked up the p/N on mine. About $300 and the replacement doesn't look that bad. The hardest thing looks to be removing the rops and wheel. Perhaps the fender to get some more work room.

Good Luck,
Rob

Shimon · May 22, 2007

ctpres said:
What I can't tell is degree of diffuculty with seals and how axel connects to drive line. Any ideas appreciated.

That's the million dollar question..."can I do it?"

How much wrenching experience do you have? Have a ever done major engine repairs (rebuild, head gaskets, valves)? Have you done a brake job before (drum brakes...cylinders and springs and all)? If you have then I would definitely give it a shot. A manual may help but not always. I have a copy of the Kubota L2800/L3400 workshop manual and I can scan pages if you need. From reading the rear axle section, it looks like something you can accomplish in your garage. Looks like you may need a puller. Otherwise it looks pretty straight forward. I would also ask a mechanically inclined friend to lend a hand. I'll scan a diagram when I get a chance. And if you need help you always have TBN friends who can lend a hand over the net. Good luck!

Shimon · May 22, 2007

Here's a diagram of the rear axle from the manual...

Shimon · May 22, 2007

And one more...

RobJ · May 22, 2007

Shimon said:
That's the million dollar question..."can I do it?"

How much wrenching experience do you have? Have a ever done major engine repairs (rebuild, head gaskets, valves)? Have you done a brake job before (drum brakes...cylinders and springs and all)? If you have then I would definitely give it a shot. A manual may help but not always. I have a copy of the Kubota L2800/L3400 workshop manual and I can scan pages if you need. From reading the rear axle section, it looks like something you can accomplish in your garage. Looks like you may need a puller. Otherwise it looks pretty straight forward. I would also ask a mechanically inclined friend to lend a hand. I'll scan a diagram when I get a chance. And if you need help you always have TBN friends who can lend a hand over the net. Good luck!

I agree, and even though I use to do this for a living I would not call this a major repair. Some heavy stuff, expensive, but it's still a slow moving part unlike a high revving engine. A major part but not a complicated one IMO.

Just guessing about $500 in labor mininum if you went to a dealer.

Be sure to take some pics and post if you go forward.

Good Luck,
rob

Greenfield Dave · May 23, 2007

Could you use J/B Weld to fix the crack! It's an epoxy you can get at NAPA.

Mechanics use it to repair cracked outboard motor blocks, so it must be strong!!

I guess it depends on how bad the crack is....

Good luck!!