Y soytenly. I presume its a twine (plastic or sisal), tractor driven (instead of pony motor, and not missing any chains.
I'd get a decent set of tires under it first so that the thing can be moved and the pickup head won't be down in the dirt.
1st empty the bale chamber out completely so you can stick your nose in and see all of the mechanism. Cut out all the twine so its free and clear of remnants.
Set the tongue straight so it won't have any cyclic resistance in the driveline. Put a new shear pin in the flywheel so you know its good. Now start looking in the knotter frame area for a bunch of springs. They are probably pretty tired and worn. Pull one out at a time and get some new ones as necessary. Home Depot, TSC, ACO , etc have boxes of springs of the same tension and length.
Look underneath the bale case (under the knotter frame area) and pluck at the plunger stops. These often are plugged up with hay chaff, springs shot, and not straight. Make sure they move when you give them a pull.
Check out the auger drive and find all the zerks. Get clean grease out of all shafts they lubricate. Flip the tucker fingers and make sure they snap back into home position. On the knotter wheels, spray some wd40 or light oil on the balls of the wiper arms to make sure they rotate freely. Find the twine cutoff knives and see if they are sharp. If not you can pull out the hold down bolts on the knotter arms, flip them up, and change the knives to new ones. They may have been riveted on. If so, grind off, remove knives, sharpen or replace. Then fasten back with bolts.
Next, you can spin the measuring wheel and figure out how to trip the knotter. Roll the flywheel over, hand over hand real slow and see if the knot sequence starts ok. First the needles will come up. See if they slide up through the twine disks barely touching. If not, loosen the needle bolts and tweak them. Watch for the needles to retract, the bill hooks spin, and the wiper arms get smacked across the billhooks to clean the knot off and cut the twine. Even by hand, it happens so fast you will want to have someone turn it slowly for you to see it all happen. At normal drive speed this sequence takes about 1/3 of a second. Then you can hook up the tractor drive and run it at idle speed. Trip the knotter and cross your fingers. The sequence will fly by. Keep your hands away from things. There should be a natural progression in time of the plunger packing a flake (no hay in it yet) the knotter tripping , needles rising billhooks spinning, plunger retracting and the needles retracting. The needle brake should also be checked. You want a lot of brake torque on it, but too much could cause the shear pin in the needle pickup rod to break.
Now check to see how sharp the hay knives are in the plunger and the stationary knife. Sharpen as necessary. These should be aligned pretty close together.
Buy some new spools of twine. You will need a fish scale to check the pull thru tension at each stage of the twine feed: twine box, twine disks in the knotter, etc. Check the tips of the needles to see if the little pulleys in there spin freely. Check the twine guides to see if they are worn. They are ceramic electrical insulators: Hardware store items.
Go over the driveline to see if the slip clutch has even been cycled. Check the main gearbox for oil. The chain at the gearbox oftens runs loose. Adjust the idler as necessary to take out the slack.
Man that just about covers any conventional square baler.
There are some guys on eBay who sell manuals. Gets a parts book, too. Many of the parts are interchangable with the newer models, including New Holland models. The patent name is "Deering knotter" so thay all had the same guts. Missing any bale pick up teeth? Now is the time to get them replaced. I bough a few new ones on eBay.
If you are still lookin for something to do, grease the wheel bearings..
The user manual will give you the same speal but with pictures.
Go buy some hay bales and break them up. Feed the twine out of the twine box, up thru the needles, and back to the wagon hitch and tie a simple knot. While running the driveline, manually trip the knotter (pull up on the twine disk lever). the thing will cycle, load the twine disk and return to station. Toss in some hay (1/2 a bale will do). Then manually trip the knotter again. The thing will cycle, complete a knot and wait for more hay.
You should have a nice little bale ready to feed to a pigmy pony. When starting up next hay season, you will need to adjust the hay tension springs so you get the weight of bales you need (want). As you make the first few rounds, you might want to check the bale length. Adjust this as necessary with the shim bolt on the measuring wheel arm.
You are now a baler man.
Paint is good, clean is good. Dry is mandatory. Don't even let the bale chamber or knotter parts get wet. The dust, pollen, mud, chaff makes cement that can get ugly.
I always blow out my machine with an air hose jet after every use. This lets you inspect for loose parts, missing springs, missing case bolts (where do they go???), shear pins strained, and keeps your storage shed nice and clean.
Your turn.
I did get on ebay and bid on a manual and parts manual so I can at least look talk with the same vocabulary. Other than that I am lost. I mean as far as knowing where the shear pin is, duck bill that sort of thing I dont follow cause I dont know what to look for YET! But I will! pics if you got them would help but dont go and take new ones I will get a manual that I would think would help me out in all this. so today I think I will get it cleaned up a bit more and lubricate and oil what I can.
