hydro filter

[s1120]

OK, I guess I will start this forum also. My two Ingersoll tractors are hydraulic driven. Not a hydrstac trans like most tractors, but true hydraulic. It uses about 12 qts of 15w40 motor oil instead of hydro fluid. Now here’s my problem. There is no filter in the system. With the dusty envroment it lives in, and with the detachable hydro powered attachments there is a lot of chances to get dirt in there.. I would like to put a filter into the system. Now here’s the big problem, I don’t have a lot of room. The return line is ¾” and runs from the cooler in front, to the tank right behind the motor. This is only about 2.5ft. It is low on the tractor near where the lift rod goes to the front attachments, so size is a big factor. Any ideas? Any sources for a small filter that may work? Thanks in advance for any help you can give me

 

[JJT]

For less than $100 you should be able to plumb in a remote oil filter, anywhere you have room, (firewall, frame, etc). I'd opt for the largest filter you can get, a friend of mine put on a remote filter that takes 2 PH8A filter, (~1qrt/filter).

 

[tbarber]

A friend of mine has a Case446. I think it's a 1977, he needs a new front axle, his is bent. Any idea of how much they cost ?
If your fuel pump dies you can use a electric one. That is what we did to his.As for that filter ,I don't know. We just changed the hose your talking about,that was fun- there is no room.
Tom

 

[s1120]

<font color=red>We just changed the hose your talking about,that was fun- there is no room</font color=red>

Oh ya, so you know my problem. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif Mines not as bad as your friends, mine has a single cyl, but still. Also I will send you a e mail address in a PM of a guy I got some parts off of. He may have what you are looking for.

 

[DFB]

Paul, here's the link for JC Whitneys probably could be found in a local auto parts store.

DFB

 

[jinman]

<font color=blue>My two Ingersoll tractors are hydraulic driven. Not a hydrstac trans like most tractors, but true hydraulic. </font color=blue>

Paul, can you explain what you mean by that statement? Does your Ingersoll not have a hydraulic pump?...a hydraulic motor? I'm puzzled at what the difference is. Some manufacturers even call power steering using a hydraulic cylinder "hydrostatic" so I am just assuming it's a general expression that means the power transfer uses liquid instead of a mechanical link or electrical link. /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif

 

[s1120]

From what I have seen most hydrostatic trans have the pump, and motor all built in one unit. This has a pump on the motor, and a motor on the transaxle, like a hydro tiller would be.

 

[tbarber]

Paul
What is the idle speed for the 16HP onan motor ?
This one idles faster than a regular lawn mower.
Was hoping maybe you new/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[jinman]

I see what you mean now. Since there is a hydraulic pump on my engine that supplies fluid for the FEL, remotes, and hydraulic lift, I wouldn't call them a hydrostatic transmission either. Sounds reasonable to me.../w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[s1120]

Jinman,
But I could be wrong also./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Basically, it has a standard 2 speed transaxle, but instead of a belt, or a drive shaft driving it, it has a hydro motor. I read my earlier post and had NO IDEA what I was talking about. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[jinman]

Regarding your filter...
Are your Ingersoll's like the Teramites? I rented a 20 hp unit once and I thought it was a 20 hp Kohler engine. Do yours have Onan engines like someone mentioned in an earlier post? Anyhow, I suspect that you will be able to find some sort of transmission cooler/filter arrangment for auto/truck automatic transmissions. You might have to get additional lengths of hose. If you put one of these in the return line or in the suction line (low pressure), you should be "in business" for keeping cleaner oil. Have you ever noticed a lot of dirt in your 12 quarts of oil when you changed it? I'm just brainstorming here and you've already received good advice from others, so I'm just adding my two cents worth./w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

Here are filter assemblies from Chief and Prince:

 

[s1120]

<font color=red>Have you ever noticed a lot of dirt in your 12 quarts of oil when you changed it?</font color=red>

No but I have only changed it once. Just don't want to get to that point. Pumps are pricy./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

 

[s1120]

<font color=red>What is the idle speed for the 16HP onan motor ?</font color=red>

tbarber,
Sorry cant help you on that. Mine has a single cylinder Kholer.

 

[jinman]

Tbarber, my Onan manual says both the B43M-16hp and B48M-18hp engines have an idle speed of 1100 +or- 100 rpm. For the Marvel Schebler carb, the speed is 1100 rpm and with a Walbro or Nikki carb it's 1000 rpm. I hope this helps.

 

[tbarber]

I found out what was wrong with the idle speed. Someone droped a small wrench in between the govenor arm, and the engine case.That took care of all the problems/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Thanks for the help.
Tom

 

[DocBezdek]

Hi Paul,
I'm replying to this even though it is not a recent post because I am going through the same kind of exercise on my 1969 Case 442.
There is a filter screen in the system, it's just impossible to see and nearly impossible to clean, and when it's full of dirt, it gets destroyed because there's no pressure relief. The screen is located inside the reservoir tank on the older models. If you examine the tank, you'll see that it is formed from two deep-drawn halves which are soldered together in the center. The filter screen is spot-welded into position prior to the tank being assembled. If you look closely at the exterior of the tank, you can see the spot welds. The screen completely separates the left hand side of the tank from the right. When fluid flows from the cooler into the tank, it must pass through the screen prior to flowing to the pump. Any dirt that the screen catches remains there forever unless the owner removes the tank and flushes it. The screen on my tank came loose from its spot welds and settled over the tank outlet, thereby severely restricting the flow and causing the pump to cavitate. I removed the screen and am going to add a return line filter if I can't find a vintage tank with an intact screen (I'd like to keep my tractor original).
These screens probably protect the system for a period of time, until they load up and provide a sufficient flow restriction to be torn loose from their welds. They are probably also stressed by cold fluid as there is no pressure relief. This kind of catastrophic failure would also dump the entire load of debris immediately into the system. Some failure mode huh? I can't complain too much as I've owned this tractor for 33 years, and the hyraulics have never given trouble before.
In summary, add a return line filter and if the pump ever cavitates, look in the reservoir for a broken screen.
As far as a separate filter, size for the pump flow plus allow extra because return flow will exceed pump flow when using hydraulic cylinders, such as a loader or log splitter. 20 g.p.m. should suffice. Make sure the filter head has a pressure relief. If you get creative with hose, you can package the thing almost anywhere, but only on the low pressure side of the system.
Steve

 

[s1120]

Steve,
Thanks for the reply. My tractors are the newer style, right before they changed to the 3xxx, and 4xxx Ingersolls. These have a plastic hydro bottle with no screen. I still have not put the filter in, this will be a project for next winter, during the down time. For now I just keep the system full, and change it every year.