Backhoe Hydraulics

   / Hydraulics #1  

bluecarpenter

Silver Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2004
Messages
110
Location
central missouri
Tractor
CK30 HST and allis chalmers b with belly sickle at dads farm. Yanmar 2210DB , ford 8N .farmall cub
what is the best way to tap into the hydraulics on my satoh
beaver s370. I'm wanting to put a little dozer blade on the front end. And possibly run a small backhoe with it. Do I cut into the lines or what and I assume their metric so where would I take them to get a T put in the line
 
   / Hydraulics #2  
The best way to do this is to use an adapter block which provides supply and return points to another set of hydraulic control valves (essentially you force the oil to the new control valve then from it to the tractor where you tapped in.) It is usually installed where the lines from the pump go to the tractor's transmission. The problem, of course, is where to get the adapter block. You might want to check with Bill at Valley Power if he's still in business but there's a good chance he won't have any or they will be pretty pricey. It's been a couple years since I contacted him. You can also have an adapter block made but that will be time consuming and expensive especially if you don't have cheap access to a machine shop. I recently bought an S370D that picks up an output tap off the 3-point lowering control box but it is tied to the 3-point which means they both operate at the same time which is a bit odd and only provides output for a single-acting cylinder, but better than nothing I suppose but won't do what you want. Sorry there is no easy (or cheap) solution to this unless you happen to run across a donor tractor that may have this to part it out from. You probably don't want to "T" into the existing lines because that will cause operational issues. The fluid is not pressurized in the tractor's standard hydraulic system until the 3-point valve is moved into the "up" position and it will only pressurize to what is required to lift the three point until it reaches the end of its travel (where mechanical linkage disengages it) or can't lift the 3-point when the relief valve opens. I found hydraulic systems can be tricky, even though at first glance they seem like they shouldn't be.
 
   / Hydraulics #4  
Typically tractors have open center hydraulics. So you cannot just cut a line and "tee" in. If you did, neither function (either 3PH or what you add) will be able to build pressure.

If this dozer blade is gonna have hydraulic lift AND angle functions, I would get a loader valve that has power beyond, (either two stick or joystick) and basically, remove the line from the pump that feeds the 3PH. Go from pump to loader valve, then from loader valve power beyond port to the 3PH.

Wherever the 3PH return line is, if its external, you can tee into that for the loader valve return. If the 3PH returns internally, you will have to come up with somewhere to tap the return line into.
 
   / Hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#5  
ok well when i said T into it I did mean running it to the loader valve power beyond port. My 3ph return line is external, I just have to figure out what size it is in metric and get a compression fitting to fit it.
 
   / Hydraulics #6  
Just as long as you dont have any Tee's on the pressure side of an open hydraulic system, or it wont work.

Pump > loader valve supply side..............loader valve PB port > 3PH supply
 
   / Hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Ok well I contacted Valley Power this morning and got the little adapter block that bolts on the side of the 3point so I don't have to cut my return line. They did't have one in stock but the shop guy said he would get one made with in a week and have it on its way. Figured for a $150 it would keep the lines cleaner on the tractor. I guess its an exact copy of the original and made in house. Can't wait to get it so I can get my dozer blade put on.
 
   / Hydraulics #8  
Actually $150 is pretty cheap - I might have to get one myself now. Hopefully they will give you the O-rings with it and threaded connectors. I was figuring more in the $400+ range. Seems like any new parts for tractors (let alone used) cost an arm and a leg. Thanks for letting us know.
 
   / Hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Yes it comes with O-rings and longer bolts. I asked.
 

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