Hydraulics Help Needed

[buffumjr]

I am brand new to hydraulics.

I plan to build a front end loader attachment for my Kubota L175 starting September. This will be used primarily for road grading. I live on a dirt road, and the County carefully maintains it DURING ELECTION YEARS. On the off years, we're on our own. Right now, I'm using a home built box blade, but accuracy is not its forte. Wavy results.

When I choose levers and valves, is there any such thing as proportional control? Tiny changes for gentle push and fast changes for pushing the rest of the way? I notice the County's ten ton road grader seems to have this. If such may be found, what do I look for in the product description?

 

[oldnslo]

I suspect that a land plane would do much better at grading roads than a front loader.

For hydraulic control valves typically but not always higher priced name brands will provide better control than low cost models. Also valves sized to match flow rate typically provides better control.

 

[/pine]

I agree a loader is for hauling and moving material...they are not graders etc...
Put the money into hydraulics but for Top-N-Tilt not a loader...T&T will solve the problem with the box blade...or any other grading attachment...

 

[buffumjr]

I saw ChuckE2009 install that on a tractor on Youtube. Certainly a lot cheepa than building an end loader.

 

[RNeumann]

I agree a loader is for hauling and moving material...they are not graders etc...
Put the money into hydraulics but for Top-N-Tilt not a loader...T&T will solve the problem with the box blade...or any other grading attachment...

Yep- the front end isn’t the right approach for this. If the box is making wavy results TnT will help. I’d also look at a heavier box and or making some mounts to add weight to your existing box. Another option is some of the specialty road grading attachments from Everything Attachments or Land Pride.

 

[RNeumann]

How To - Tractor Land Plane - Gravel Road Maintenance - YouTube

New Land Leveler From Everything Attachments - YouTube

 

[farm boy00]

Another cheaper but not a great option is adding wheels to the back of your box blade or back blade.

First picture shows just a few ideas. But you want it further out to get better results like the 2nd picture. Then leave your top link unhooked and you can adjust your height with the 3pt

 

[ddbackhoe]

Another cheaper but not a great option is adding wheels to the back of your box blade or back blade.

First picture shows just a few ideas. But you want it further out to get better results like the 2nd picture. Then leave your top link unhooked and you can adjust your height with the 3ptView attachment 608959View attachment 608960

Sometimes you just need the right pointers on how to use what you have.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/122762-beginners-guide-using-box-blade.html

 

[Phantese]

I am brand new to hydraulics.

I plan to build a front end loader attachment for my Kubota L175 starting September. This will be used primarily for road grading. I live on a dirt road, and the County carefully maintains it DURING ELECTION YEARS. On the off years, we're on our own. Right now, I'm using a home built box blade, but accuracy is not its forte. Wavy results.

When I choose levers and valves, is there any such thing as proportional control? Tiny changes for gentle push and fast changes for pushing the rest of the way? I notice the County's ten ton road grader seems to have this. If such may be found, what do I look for in the product description?

I also have a home made Box blade, they are good but usually not as good as the bought ones. Mine had a rounded end on the cutting edge due to the Hardened plate I used. It was plenty heavy but I had to grind off some of the blade so it had a "sharper" edge to it (about 45 Deg angle) this helped a lot cutting into material rather than acting as a ramp to push over it. Just thought I'd mention the sharp edge because you said yours is homemade as well. Also the slower you drive the better results, the faster a Box blade goes the less effective it is in taking out small bumps, you'll get a washboard finish if you're going too fast. Also a tractor is much more effective pulling than pushing an implement, good luck!

 

[3Ts]

When I choose levers and valves, is there any such thing as proportional control? Tiny changes for gentle push and fast changes for pushing the rest of the way? I notice the County's ten ton road grader seems to have this. If such may be found, what do I look for in the product description?

First, check how you're going to tap into the tractor's hydraulic system. You probably have an open center system, but you should verify this.
Second, determine if you need to use the 3 pt when your loader is hooked up. If yes you'll need 3 hydraulic lines, if no you'll only need 2.
2 lines are for fluid in and a return to tank line
3 lines add a fluid out to the next valve (3ph) and needs the valve bank to be a power beyond

Your tractor seems to be rated at 3.7 gpm and 1700 psi so your valves should be rated near this, but not less than this. For ag tractors, typically when you move one lever, it shuts off all flow to any downstream valves. There are some valves that are metering valves you may want to look into, but i doubt you'll notice much difference. There are also fittings that include offrices of various sizes that will control the rate at which a cylinder moves.

As for proportional control and use of multiple valves at the same time - you'll only find it on construction equipment. It's not cheap to implement and for the most part ag equipment can get by without it. If you really need it, then you probably also need the construction equipment it goes on.