Hydraulic splitter/multiplier verses additional set of factory remotes

   / Hydraulic splitter/multiplier verses additional set of factory remotes #1  

Lineman North Florida

Elite Member
Joined
May 12, 2008
Messages
2,552
Location
LaCrosse Florida
Tractor
Farmtrac 360 DTC with FEL & John Deere 5093E with FEL ,Kubota SVL 75-2
I have a John Deere 5093E that only came with one set of factory remotes and I have decided that I am going to put another set on, the only problem is John Deere wants $1300.00 just for the kit, best I can tell it's two 4' hoses, one set of remotes, another handle to operate new set of remotes and a bracket, I'm pretty sure my pump is already set up for the two additional hoses, so needless to say I am looking at hydraulic splitters/multipliers from Summit hydraulics and or a Fassi brand. What I hope to find out is how reliable are these and are they pretty durable?Any info appreciated. Charlie.
 
   / Hydraulic splitter/multiplier verses additional set of factory remotes #2  
How about using cast iron Bosch diverters? Something like what is pictured with a control grip on your existing control lever. All of your controls are on your existing control lever, no moving your hand back and forth to actuate separately mounted switches.

The JD has a double diverter setup and the red tractor has a triple diverter setup. The gray control grip is on the single rear remote lever for the 3 diverters.

A single, double & triple pictured separately.
 

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   / Hydraulic splitter/multiplier verses additional set of factory remotes #3  
Besides the diverters you can also add a set of non-factory remotes. You'll have to do some fab work to make simple brackets and get some hoses made. There are a number of threads on here detailing how people have done theirs.
 
   / Hydraulic splitter/multiplier verses additional set of factory remotes
  • Thread Starter
#4  
How about using cast iron Bosch diverters? Something like what is pictured with a control grip on your existing control lever. All of your controls are on your existing control lever, no moving your hand back and forth to actuate separately mounted switches.

The JD has a double diverter setup and the red tractor has a triple diverter setup. The gray control grip is on the single rear remote lever for the 3 diverters.

A single, double & triple pictured separately.
That is nice, I will have to look into those as well.
 
   / Hydraulic splitter/multiplier verses additional set of factory remotes
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Besides the diverters you can also add a set of non-factory remotes. You'll have to do some fab work to make simple brackets and get some hoses made. There are a number of threads on here detailing how people have done theirs.
I will have to do some research and see if I can find those threads.
 
   / Hydraulic splitter/multiplier verses additional set of factory remotes #6  
The OEM kit is probably more than just hoses and couplers with a bracket.

There has to be a valve to control the remote. Thats probably the main cost. Doubt it already came equipped with a valve but only lacking the hoses and couplers.

Not sure what you are using them for, but the diverters are fine as long as you dont need continuous flow out of both functions at the same time. Diverters are an either/or but not both at the same time. Fine if you are using them to just raise and lower implements transport wheels, or lower wings on a batwing cutter. But some of the modern farming equipment that requires continuous flow for something....when you activate the diverter that flow will stop.
 
   / Hydraulic splitter/multiplier verses additional set of factory remotes #7  
Yikes, Another rookie here lol. I have an older New Holland and just purchased a dk4710 with a backhoe. With my older tractor it was used simply for rear blading, brush hogging and loader work. It didn't have the 3rd functions kit or anything like that but it served it's purpose for many years. As with most of the threads regarding the cost of 3rd function kits, they're way over priced. I've read some threads regarding alternative ways to add a third function setup but being a newbie, the post are confusing. Some folks use letters like FLM, PB abbreviations while other do quick responses but don't explain. I'm fairly mechanically inclined (mainly build hot rods) but this tractor hydraulic 3rd function stuff is all new to me. I want to set up a plow and possibly later a grapple setup with a 3rd function alternative. Can someone let me know exactly what parts I would need ? I've read threads which referred to diverter valves, PB's (still have no idea what a pb is), hoses, single spool directional control, back flow device, ect so I a little confused. Because this dk (which is on order) has a backhoe attachment I assume it will come with a 4 remote rear setup. Am I right ? And if that's the case, could I just order the longer hoses and control the direction of the plow with the rear control ? I'm sure there's more to it than that. If someone could explain what exactly I should look for and the best places to find these parts it would be greatly appreciated. I hope I'm not hijacking someones post. As mentioned I'm a newbie and didn't know if I should open a new thread or just comment on this one. Thank u for any advice
 
   / Hydraulic splitter/multiplier verses additional set of factory remotes #8  
PB is power beyond. Typically, the power beyond is to the rear of the tractor, and set up with feed hose from the pump, and a return to the tank.

Implements such as your backhoe, which have their own control valves are connected to the power beyond, and the actions of the implement are controlled with the valves on the device.

Basically, the hydraulic fluid flows pretty much constantly, from the pump, through the main hose system, and then back to the tank. The control valves divert it into and out of the cylinders, hydraulic motors, etc. depending on what you do with the valves.

Look at a valve controlling a double acting hydraulic cylinder, (the most common hydraulic on tractors). If lever is in the neutral position fluid just flows through the related valve. Move it one way and the valving moves to feed the pressurized fluid from the pump into, one side of the cylinder, and let the fluid in the other side of the cylinder flow back to the return line and into the reservoir/tank. Move the lever the other way, and it flows into the other side of the cylinder, and lets the fluid you just put in the other side go back to the reservoir/tank.

When I was a young man, they still had relevant shop and vocational classes in the high schools. I was living in Oregon, and to operate tractors anywhere but the family farm, you had to get a Farm Equipment license. And, the easiest way to do that was take a class at highschool, on farm equipment. We had a text book which went over tractor maintenance, including the hydraulics, and the more common implements. You might find a used copy of one on eBay.

And, I highly recommend checking in with your County Extension Office. They probably have literature, information and knowledge they can share. Your taxes pay for the resource, so you should try to use it.
 
   / Hydraulic splitter/multiplier verses additional set of factory remotes #9  
Yikes, Another rookie here lol. I have an older New Holland and just purchased a dk4710 with a backhoe. With my older tractor it was used simply for rear blading, brush hogging and loader work. It didn't have the 3rd functions kit or anything like that but it served it's purpose for many years. As with most of the threads regarding the cost of 3rd function kits, they're way over priced. I've read some threads regarding alternative ways to add a third function setup but being a newbie, the post are confusing. Some folks use letters like FLM, PB abbreviations while other do quick responses but don't explain. I'm fairly mechanically inclined (mainly build hot rods) but this tractor hydraulic 3rd function stuff is all new to me. I want to set up a plow and possibly later a grapple setup with a 3rd function alternative. Can someone let me know exactly what parts I would need ? I've read threads which referred to diverter valves, PB's (still have no idea what a pb is), hoses, single spool directional control, back flow device, ect so I a little confused. Because this dk (which is on order) has a backhoe attachment I assume it will come with a 4 remote rear setup. Am I right ? And if that's the case, could I just order the longer hoses and control the direction of the plow with the rear control ? I'm sure there's more to it than that. If someone could explain what exactly I should look for and the best places to find these parts it would be greatly appreciated. I hope I'm not hijacking someones post. As mentioned I'm a newbie and didn't know if I should open a new thread or just comment on this one. Thank u for any advice
It is not common for backhoes to run off of remotes.

A remote is something that has a lever/valve that controls a set of couplers out back. Its used to control things like a toplink cylinder, or lift wheels on a transport implement or something similar. Could a backhoe be used with remotes....sure....but you have to have a way to keep the lever activated on the tractor to keep oil flowing to the backhoe valve.

Since the backhoe has its own valve, most manufactures save the expense of the remote valve and breakaway coupler setup. They also dont plumb it with power beyond since the only thing down stream is the 3PH (three point hitch) and you cannot use it with the backhoe on anyway.

Some pictures of how your tractor is plumbed for the backhoe will allow a little more tailored advice.

If you DO actually have a remote valve...then YES you can simply get some long hoses to control a plow angle or grapple. But often times this is less than ideal because the lever to control something attached to the loader is not in an ideal location for ergonomics.

So for now....lets forget the back of the tractor and how the remotes are hooked up.

You have basically 3 options and all are plumbed differently. Two options are a "3rd function" and one being a "diverter". So before we talk about those 3 options lets first look at the difference between a 3rd function and a diverter.

3rd function: Is a valve added in addition to the loader valve and has its own unique control and can be used at the same time or independently of the loader.

Diverter: is a valve that takes one of the functions away from the loader when you activate it and diverts that control to the grapple. Example would be move the joystick left and right and your bucket curls and dumps. Push a button and do the same action and that curl/dump oil is now diverted to move a plow left and right.

So now the 3 options:
1. A manual 3rd function. This is a manual valve with a lever (similar to a simple logsplitter valve). This HAS to be a valve that is PB (power beyond) capable with the appropriate PB cartridge. On your existing tractor, oil comes from the pump and into the loader valve P-port (P for pressure). Then oil comes out of the PB port on the loader and onward to feed the back of the tractor (backhoe, remotes, 3PH, etc). You would disconnect this line. It NOW needs to feed the new valves P-port. Out of the NEW valve's PB port you connect a hose going to the back of the tractor wherever the the original loader PB hose went to. Then the NEW valve will also have a Tank port. This needs a hose and it can be tee'd into an existing tank line on the tractor. Easy way to find one is your loader valve will ALSO have a Tank port. Follow that hose and wherever is convenient you can put a TEE and install your line. Those THREE hoses P, PB and T (tank) are the three you need to install the valve. Now all that is needed is you two hoses going up front to the plow or grapple off the "work" ports of the new valve, usually labeled A and B. You need to mount this valve in a way that it is easy to operate in conjunction with the loader valve.

2. And electric 3rd function. Operationally they function the same as above but instead of a lever, they have a button that activates its. IT requires putting a button on the joystick and routing power and ground to it. Or buying a joystick handle with buttons already in it. They are plumbed a bit different though....they only have a P and a T port to connect to the tractor (then the two work ports A and B like above). The electric valves are steel and dont have spools the extend out the the body, and thus usually have a much higher pressure rating for the T port and dont need the PB. (I'll explain this later). So with this valve, you locate the PB hose coming off the loader valve (supplying the rear of the tractor). This hose needs removed, and the PB from the loader now goes to the P of the new valve. The T of the new valve goes to back of tractor wherever the hose went to that you just removed. Thats it. Just the work ports going to the grapple or plow and its done hydraucally.

3. Diverter. No need to mess with P, PB, or tank ports. You decide which function (lift/lower or curl/dump) you would like to divert. Lets say you choose dump and curl. You have two hoses coming out of the loader valve....you remove those and connect those loader ports to the new valve. Now you have two sets of outlets out of the diverter. The ones that are normally open....you re-attach the hoses going to your curl cylinders that you removed from the loader valve. The other two you add your hoses going up front to your grapple or plow. Now similar to the electric 3rd function....you need a button on the joystick and some wiring to activate it. Your loader will work normally.....until you push button. Then lift/lower will work normally but the curl and dump will now control plow and grapple.

Now the reason/why behind PB. Power beyond is a continuation through the valve of high pressure fluid to operate valves down stream. Manually controlled valves are usually cast iron bodies. And since they have return springs on one end and a handle on the other, the spool actually protrudes out of the casting and sealed with an o-ring. And the tank passage internal to the valve is the outter most part of the casting and not really thick since it isnt designed for pressure. If you DONT use the internal PB passages and PB cartridge.....all of your downstream valves are fed off the tank port. And when you operate them at max pressure.....that max pressure is now on the tank passages of your added valve, and can either crack the casting or blow out the o-rings. Thus the PB cartridge gives the valve ONE inlet (P), and TWO outlets (PB and T) and only the PB is rated for pressure.

Now armed with this info, if you cannot understand or follow it....Id suggest having someone who knows hydraulics help you out. There is only so much help we can offer over the internet. Now if you CAN follow it....decide which of the 3 systems you want, take some pics of your current setup, and we shall see if we can walk you through it.
 
   / Hydraulic splitter/multiplier verses additional set of factory remotes #10  
Thank u so much. You did clarify things greatly. I've seen some mention of places to buy some of these items and some have mentioned surplus supply. Is their item good quality and fair prices. Thank u again for the help
 

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