Hydraulic Quick Connects - any tricks?

[c-and-a]

I frequently put my loader on/off and the more I do it, the harder the quick connects are to put on / take off... I tried a quick shot on WD-40, helped alittle - I also move the valve with the tractor off to alleviate pressure...

Any other ideas?

 

[kwolfe]

pull harder

 

[CurlyDave]

I frequently put my loader on/off and the more I do it, the harder the quick connects are to put on / take off...

I have this same problem. Relieving the pressure makes it much easier to disconnect my hoses, but reconnecting them is frequently beyond my strength.

I solved the problem with a caulking gun.

I got a fairly high-quality caulking gun (the $5.95 one, not the $1.95 one) and a heavy steel washer with a 3/4" ID and a ~2" OD. It was a standard washer, no I don't remember the size. The important part was that the hole in the washer was the right size for the hydraulic line to fit through, and the OD of the washer was just a hair smaller than the diameter that would fit perfectly in the caulking gun.

I clamped the washer in my vise so that I could use the top of the jaws as a sort of 1/2 assed hacksaw guide, and made two cuts, so the washer now has a U-shaped hole in it, with the bottom rounded. The purpose of this is to reinforce the front end of the caulking gun. The front of the caulking gun has to have a U-shaped slot for the nozzle of the tube of caulk, a closed hole will not work.

To use it, put the two ends of the quick-connect coupling together as far as you can, reinforce the front of the caulking gun with the modified washer, and press on the back of the second coupling with the caulking gun plunger.

No, it doesn't line up perfectly, and it bends the plunger rod, but it does supply enough force that I can now make the connection.

I suppose that when it gets bent up enough, I will make a carrier of some sort for a second modified washer so I can push more directly in line with the thing, but for now it has worked well every time. It used to take me 15 minutes or more to make the connections (with much blessing of the lines), now it is less than a minute. And, my wife is happy because the proficiency & variety of profanity has been reduced.

 

[kevinj]

I frequently put my loader on/off and the more I do it, the harder the quick connects are to put on / take off... I tried a quick shot on WD-40, helped alittle - I also move the valve with the tractor off to alleviate pressure...

Any other ideas?

Are you fully relieving the pressure BEFORE you remove the hoses to the loader??? Mine are very easy to reconnect when relieving at removal and before reconnect.

 

[Stackwood]

I've only had mine off once (LA852). When I took it off initially I decided I needed to raise the back arms a little more, thus hooked the hoses back briefly. No problems. Both times I thoroughly relieved the pressure with the joystick prior to hose removal. Days later I went to put the loader back on. Two went on easily. The other two took a terrific amount of effort. I assumed that the loader had settled and put renewed pressure on two of the pistons.

On a post somewhere a fellow indicated that he relieved the excess pressure with "a few taps" of his crescent wrench. I assume he was tapping on the spring loaded valves on the ends of the hoses. I didn't try this for fear of making a mess. Any thoughts anyone?

 

[dirtworksequip]

Sometimes you can releive the pressure by pushing the nipple of the quick connect on something hard. I've had to loosen the quick connect fitting when the loader has sat for a long time.

 

[thunderworks]

Cover the end of the fitting with a rag and give the bearing a light tap with a hammer to relieve pressure. Doesn't take much to relieve the pressure.

 

[Stackwood]

Great advice. I'll be sure to try it next time I have the loader off.

I love this list!

 

[Dargo]

I would certainly never tap on the seat valve ball on any loader hydraulics. That is never a good idea and can be flat dangerous besides easily destroying your fitting. I've taken dozens of different loaders off of several brands of tractors and have never had any issues ever. There are some very specific procedures though. First, after you shut off your tractor, move your joystick in every direction several times. Do this until there is no movement, wiggle, twitch etc. from the loader at all. Then, you'll find that the lines will come off rather easily. When you go to put the loader back on, do the exact same thing with the joystick after you shut off your tractor. Doing so will release all pressure against the loader valves and hose connections. You can push the valve ball in on the end of the hose with your thumb, not with a hammer. At this time, you can very easily reconnect your loader lines.

Remember, no matter what, if you have pressure on your hydraulic lines when you are trying to disconnect or reconnect your loader, you're doing something wrong. When releasing the pressure, I've never had a connector that has been the least bit difficult to attach or take off. Even if you're taking a Top and Tilt cylinder off, follow the same procedure of moving the lever back and forth with the engine off. It will work with ease.

 

[N80]

My loader hoses often keep some pressure on them even when you do everything you just described. It isn't much but it's enough to make them hard to connect. A light tap with a socket wrench extension relieves the pressure. This is _not_ dangerous because it is a light tap. If the pressure was high enough to be dangerous, a light tap wouldn't release it. And, because it is a light tap, there is no way to hurt the quick connect.

 

[Volfandt]

When mine have repressurized, I'll insert the blunt end of a 3/8's socket extension into the coupling, wrap a rag around it then just depress the ext into the coupling. You can hear and feel the fluid release through the rag. The couplings connect real easy then

It doesn't happen much, generally only after the FEL has set awhile. Most times it's not a problem....

Volfandt

 

[JoeL4330]

If the problem is on the implement end, not the tractor end then the "work the joystick" routine is of no help ...I've had this problem on my grapple ...hadn't "closed" it all the way when I took it off ...bottle jack to "open" it a tad relieved the pressure. I also find that if I took it off when cold, then sitting in the sun might expand the fluid in the hoses on the implement and up the pressure ...light tap with a "deadblow" hammer seems to be harmless to the ball valve ...being careful to make sure the outflow would point away from anyone.

 

[Dargo]

I've never had anything "re-pressurize" after completely releasing the pressure before disconnecting. I guess I’m lucky that I’ve not had spontaneous pressurization in the 20 years or so I’ve worked with tractor hydraulics.

 

[john_bud]

Dargo,

What, never had a cylinder that leaked? As the loader settles the fluid builds up pressure in the dead ended line.

Either you ARE lucky, or you prop the loader up so it won't settle.

jb

 

[TGD]

Anytime I have had this problem, I just (with tractor off) push the offending connector onto its mate, and then while pushing, move the joystick around. The connector will go on as easy and the collar will snap closed same as if there was no built up pressure on the line.

I have this sometimes when I take the loader off and the disconnected loader sits out in the sun after a cool morning.

PhilD

 

[Dargo]

Either you ARE lucky, or you prop the loader up so it won't settle.

jb

I guess. Seriously though, the "natural" unloaded loader parked position is almost always with the loader bucket lip up off the ground by the time I use the dead joystick several times to all positions and let the loader completely settle before removing the lines. Many people I've seen try to level the bucket to sit flat when taking it off. That will certainly cause pressure in the lines because it will settle. My point is only that I think a properly removed loader is completely settled before it is removed from the tractor. I mention this because the post thread asked if there were any "tricks". It seems that letting a loader completely settle with a dead joystick before disconnect has worked perfectly for me every single time with numerous tractors for a couple of decades now. And, it is oh so much easier to take loaders off now than it was in the early 80's...

 

[N80]

I suspect that settling was/is my problem. Funny that in 20 years it has never happened to you but has happened to me several time in my 1.5 years of tractor ownership. I simply have nowhere flat and level to leave mine. Plus, the soil that it sits on can go from concrete to quicksand with a rain. I have even had to move the boom cylinders by hand to get them to line up. I'm sure that puts a small amount of pressure back in the line, at least one of them anyway. If I had a nice heated garage with a smooth concrete floor, I probably wouldn't have this problem. But, that aint going to happen. So when there is some pressure making it hard to reconnect, a little tap seems to work just fine. I may try to set it on some plywood in the future.

 

[Dargo]

If I had a nice heated garage with a smooth concrete floor, I probably wouldn't have this problem. But, that aint going to happen. So when there is some pressure making it hard to reconnect, a little tap seems to work just fine. I may try to set it on some plywood in the future.

Hmm, I never thought about taking a loader off anywhere but inside my barn on a concrete floor. I suppose that would explain a difference. You may want to try plywood or something. Apparently, taking it off on solid ground must make a difference.

 

[BobRip]

I have had pressure built up in the hoses on the attachment. If you take them off when cold and then it gets hot the pressure can build up. I stick a bolt head down in the fitting and tap on the bolt with a hammer or wrench. Relieves the pressure every time. I think this was a 1/4 inch bolt. Just find one that will get on the valve in the fitting. This does not happen often, but it does happen.

 

[c-and-a]

Just got my 2350 back from having my broken fender replaced...attempted to put the FEL on - using my standard procedure - and yes, had difficulty with the hydraulic quick connects. So based on the many suggestions of this thread, I moved the joystick in several directions, then I wrapped the blunt end of a 3/8" ratchet extension in a rag and gave each nipple a couple of quick depressions to relieve the pressure and I made the connections with nearly no effort at all...problem solved!!

Thanx to all who responsed...