Hydraulic questions

[WestPalmBob]

My Shibaura SD2243D has a Vteks A2 Front End Loader. I believe this is an aftermarket product from Vietnam. I've had this machine for about 7 years, and it has served me well, but finding info on it has been difficult. Cylinder work has been expensive, because I can't easily buy replacements off the shelf. The hydraulic control mechanism is sticky and slow. Without documentation, I reluctant to tear into it.

The hydraulic guys I've been dealing with are good, but they are very proud of their work. Any of you folks have familiarity with this gear? Are these parts plug and play so that I can just swap the old ones out? I'm concerned that if the hydraulic pump fails, I'll be toast.

Finally - sometimes, if I push the bucket down, I can hear that the fan blades are coming into contact with the radiator shroud. I probably need to tighten things up, but it seems like this may be torquing the whole machine - and that can't be good.

I understand better than before, but I'm still ignorant here. I welcome any council offered.

Thanks So Much -
Bob

 

[5030]

My only comment is, if I have a leaking hydraulic cylinder (which is infrequently), I ALWAYS have the local and competent hydraulic shop rebuild it and I've never replaced one from wear either. My tractors both have loaders and they get used in a farming operation, almost every day.

 

[WestPalmBob]

I very much appreciate your comment.

I resealed the 3pt hitch lift cylinder which was very simple.

As for the rest of the hydraulics - the front end loader has 4 double acting cylinders, and the 3pt backhoe I have has 8 double acting and two single acting cylinders. I've had several of these rebuilt by one of the local hydraulic shops. For the most part, this wasn't too painful, but one cylinder on the FEL had been customized by the manufacturer. One end had a welded mount to attach to the tractor. There was also rigid metal tubing to keep flexible hoses away from mechanical joints. When I took it to be resealed, the shop called and said the inside of the barrel was scored and it was not rebuildable. Ultimately, the shop cut up my part, replaced the barrel, and effectively built me a replacement cylinder. I'm happy to have it but it cost 3 or 4 times what a generic cylinder would have cost.

Mind you - I'm not complaining - I'm happy to have the machine. Before I got it, it had some weather exposure. The rods on the backhoe cylinders were badly damaged. This was another large expense, but given what I paid for it, I'm still way ahead.

For the tractor, the backhoe, and a rotary tiller together, I paid $3500. I use it a couple of times a week since then. I've put some money into it but I'm still way ahead - at least until I have a hydraulic pump failure.

I did find a steering pitman in a tractor salvage yard. I've done some basic engine work, and I think those parts are available if you know another machine that used them. If the hydraulic pump fails, I think it's game over.

 

[oldnslo]

Bob
Where is the hydraulic pump mounted on that tractor? Reason for asking is that you may be able to find a replacement if it is not some special mount or shaft that was designed specifically for that tractor.

Valve being stiff to operate could be as simple as the centering spring assemblies under the end covers could be full of crud.

 

[WestPalmBob]

Bob
Where is the hydraulic pump mounted on that tractor? Reason for asking is that you may be able to find a replacement if it is not some special mount or shaft that was designed specifically for that tractor.

Valve being stiff to operate could be as simple as the centering spring assemblies under the end covers could be full of crud.

 

[WestPalmBob]

The pump is forward of the operators left foot.

I believe the large grey tank below the exhaust manifold is the screen / filter for the hydraulic oil. I've never cleaned this and don't know how you'd get to it. I speculate that the business bits on the left side of the image are the drive mechanism and that the pump is the middle bit between that and the metal return line. I can't imagine finding a generic replacement but I think this machine had common parts with Ford, NewHolland, and Yanmar.

I've had the impression that this machine was from around 1980, but I'm not sure where I got that idea or how I'd be able to tell.

The second photo is of the hydraulic control valves. This thing is getting a bit cantankerous - sometimes sticky. Slow for things to start happening. I'm pretty handy but never done hydraulic work. I've thought about tearing it down and trying to replace seals and O-rings, but I can imagine little springs, clips, ball bearings, etc. inside, and that it might be like trying to reassemble a clock.

 

[oldnslo]

Are you able to lift the same load you could before things became sluggish? Does it move at same speed or slower?

By sluggish to respond do you mean you operate a function at it is slow to respond - move or hard to move the levers?

Looking at picture of the valve there should be canister like covers on opposite end of the valve where levers are mounted. Under those covers is where the centering spring mechanism is. These can fill with crud over time causing valve to get hard to move.

 

[WestPalmBob]

The pump is forward of the operators left foot.

I believe the large grey tank below the exhaust manifold is the screen / filter for the hydraulic oil. I've never cleaned this and don't know how you'd get to it. I speculate that the business bits on the left side of the image are the drive mechanism and that the pump is the middle bit between that and the metal return line. I can't imagine finding a generic replacement but I think this machine had common parts with Ford, NewHolland, and Yanmar.

I've had the impression that this machine was from around 1980, but I'm not sure where I got that idea or how I'd be able to tell.

The second photo is of the hydraulic control valves. This thing is getting a bit cantankerous - sometimes sticky. Slow for things to start happening. I'm pretty handy but never done hydraulic work. I've thought about tearing it down and trying to replace seals and O-rings, but I can imagine little springs, clips, ball bearings, etc. inside, and that it might be like trying to reassemble a clock.

View attachment 879768

View attachment 879767

Are you able to lift the same load you could before things became sluggish? Does it move at same speed or slower?

By sluggish to respond do you mean you operate a function at it is slow to respond - move or hard to move the levers?

Looking at picture of the valve there should be canister like covers on opposite end of the valve where levers are mounted. Under those covers is where the centering spring mechanism is. These can fill with crud over time causing valve to get hard to move.

I haven't noticed a change in how much I can lift. Once things are moving, the speed seems the same as always. What I meant by sluggish is that when I actuate the valve raise the bucket, it often takes a second or two before anything happens. I think this also happens lowering the bucket when the bucket is already against the ground. Lowering the bucket when it's in off the ground happens immediately whether the tractor is running or not. This isn't as noticeable when curling the bucket.

As for the control valves... sometimes the left one (bucket up/down) is hard to move. I like you hypothesis that there is crud in the mechanism. I need to replace all the hoses anyway. When I do, I'll clean this up, and have a look inside.

Thanks for your help

 

[lens12]

I've dealt with several customers with the Viet nam loaders. Control valves are a common problem. They are not usually rebuildable. The spools are a repression fit. The hydraulic pump reservoir is the transmission. If it has pump plumbed to a tank, it is the power steering pump.