Hydraulic Oil Cooling Fan

   / Hydraulic Oil Cooling Fan #21  
Several years ago, my PT-425 cooling sensor died. I just removed the two wires from the sensor and connected them together. Ever since, the fan runs when the engine runs! No other switches, relays, fuses, etc are needed! After even a short run in NC, anytime of the year, the fan is needed anyway! Cost = zero!
In cold weather the fan warms the back of my head, and in warm weather it blows the deer flies away!
 
   / Hydraulic Oil Cooling Fan #22  
The sensors that PT uses are not rated to handle the fan. That is the problem........ PT knows about it,k but refuses to change as usual.

An easy fix is to buy a starter solenoid relay for a car. I picked one up on Ebay for about $8. Wire the sensor to the solenoid coil, and then have the contacts switch the fan on and off. I did this conversion before my sensor died on my PT1460 fan, and I have had zero problems since.

Here is a picture:

007.jpg
 
   / Hydraulic Oil Cooling Fan #23  
The sensors that PT uses are not rated to handle the fan. That is the problem........ PT knows about it,k but refuses to change as usual.

An easy fix is to buy a starter solenoid relay for a car. I picked one up on Ebay for about $8. Wire the sensor to the solenoid coil, and then have the contacts switch the fan on and off. I did this conversion before my sensor died on my PT1460 fan, and I have had zero problems since.

Here is a picture:

007.jpg

That solenoid is good for 100 amps and more. The fan is only about 5 amps. Just use a relay and save the current pulled by the solenoid, which I think is several amps.
 
   / Hydraulic Oil Cooling Fan #24  
That solenoid is good for 100 amps and more. The fan is only about 5 amps. Just use a relay and save the current pulled by the solenoid, which I think is several amps.

I agree that the switch is overloaded, but I have only replaced mine once in a thousand hours. Not the best design, but not real bad either.
 

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