hydraulic motor

/ hydraulic motor #1  

Tul01

Gold Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2007
Messages
272
Location
Manitoba, Canada
Tractor
2015 John Deere 5115M, 1928 and 1945 hand start John Deere D's,
I have a project in mind to convert a ground driven pull type fertilizer spreader to a hydraulic motor drive system to spread sand, etc. I tested it with a 1/3 hp electric motor and with the right pulley it almost had enough power. I am not very familiar with hydraulic motors to run off our tractor. I can get this locally,
2.8 cu. in. 2-Bolt Hydraulic Gerotor Motor | Princess Auto

Is this what I should be looking for. The system will probably be run for about 30-45 mins/load. It runs both directions so I was hoping if I ran into a jam or a frozen chunk I can back it up?

Thanks for your thoughts.

Brent
 
/ hydraulic motor #2  
This motor can use up 12 GPM, and you will need to put a relief across the motor and set it to about 1750 psi.

You also need a motor spool valve either lever or solenoid valve.

This motor can develop 10 HP.
 
/ hydraulic motor
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks JJ. I get the relief valve, now can I just use the tractor hydraulics as the spool valve or do I need something separate. I would assume the separate spool valve would be if I was running it off a hydraulic pump? Our tractor is rated for 18 gpm at the rear (JD 5105M). Thanks.

Brent Tully
 
/ hydraulic motor #4  
All the hyd on a tractor are from a pump.

Yes, you can run the motor off just about any valve. The only thing is that if there is a spinning mass on the hyd motor, and you pull the valve to neutral, blocking pump flow, the hyd motor will act like a pump and produce pressure. The purpose of the relief is to protect the motor.

If your valves are not motor spools, you should gently return the lever to neutral.

They make motor spool valves just for starting and stopping, and fwd and rev a hyd motor.

You should keep the GPM at 10 GPM's or less as required by the motor.

If you have to run the engine at full rpm, you will need a flow control valve before the motor to regulate the flow to about 10 GPM.

This motor has a much better price and turns faster. You could reduce the GPM's or gear it down to the rpm you need.

This motor can handle 2250 psi.
 
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/ hydraulic motor
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks JJ starting to understand better. Looking forward to this project.

Brent
 
/ hydraulic motor
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I was just looking through some old threads and I found I had not finished this one. I added a hydraulic drive motor to replace the ground drive system on an old fertilizer spreader. I ended up rigging it up temporarily by replacing the idler wheel that rolls on the main wheel with a sprocket and bringing a chain back up to the top where I had mounted the motor. I intended to shorten the chain eventually and still might because it was a mock up but the original springs that kept the idler tight against the ground drive have managed to keep just the right amount of tension on the chain that it doesn't come off even in some heavy bouncing. I will probably get around to making it more permanent one day. I put a pressure guage on the pump and it rarely gets above 600 psi while its working and I can control the rate with the hydraulics if nec. I didn't put a relief on it yet, just take my time starting and stopping the motor. I was painting another project so I threw some paint on this rusty old thing, hurts my eyes a little less now. Thanks to JJ for the help

Brent
 

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/ hydraulic motor
  • Thread Starter
#7  
No idea why the photos are sideways. It makes me giggle watching it work, either the stub axle has a wobble in it or the holes I drilled in the sprocket to attach it weren't centered because it has a slide slow off center wobble to it. This is one of the reasons I have left it loose with the spring tension, it allows for my "eyeball engineering". Maybe someday it will get new tires and a couple decals to match the paint. ;)

Brent
 

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