Loader hydraulic issue

hyndsight · Sep 23, 2011

Thanks Jinman, now I'm not sure about the regen feature....I thought valves with regen had a detent on the bucket spool (mine does not) and had a "float" position at about the halfway right position? Either way, everything still points to the valve, I just hessitate spending the $ on a complete valve if it's just a small part of the valve (regen?) that might be malfunctioning.
If it was the regen malfunctioning, what might I be looking for?

jinman · Sep 23, 2011

hyndsight said:
Thanks Jinman, now I'm not sure about the regen feature....I thought valves with regen had a detent on the bucket spool (mine does not) and had a "float" position at about the halfway right position? Either way, everything still points to the valve, I just hessitate spending the $ on a complete valve if it's just a small part of the valve (regen?) that might be malfunctioning.
If it was the regen malfunctioning, what might I be looking for?

I don't know this valve well enough to speak to that, but the non-regen kit illustration is shown on messicks.com. I'll try to download and post it tomorrow morning so you can make a comparison. That's the only 'good' info I can offer. My tractor has a Prince valve I believe and it is fully described in my repair manual, but I just don't know about the Kayaba valve.

hyndsight · Sep 23, 2011

I looked at messicks list of controls earlier today and the one you showed me is the closest they show to my valve. Still not sure how that feature might affect my condition?

jinman · Sep 24, 2011

I added the regen spool illustration to the others posted earlier. Go back to that earlier post of mine and look at the first illustration. Item 23 points to two items. These are checkvalves that hold the loader in its current position while you are moving the joystick from raise/lower or curl/dump. If one of those checkvalves is stuck or not working properly, it could account for the bucket staying in position. Soundguy alluded to this earlier and I think you should check their operation before tearing into your valve.

hyndsight · Oct 2, 2011

So, last week I gave up. 8 cords of wood in the driveway and winter not far off, I just needed my tractor back, so off to my local NH tractor guys.
When I picked it up, service guy says, "in over 40 years of working on tractors, I've never seen anything like this before". Apparently it passed all the pressure tests with flying colors, they put another new valve on it, messed with the tractor side of the circuit, and after over 12 hours in they started changing out quick connects.........huh, thats where I started 10 months ago? guess I should have just kept going and changed em all.

jinman · Oct 3, 2011

So all this time and all this grief and it was a quick connect?

Gosh! You are taking this a lot better than I would.

Soundguy · Oct 3, 2011

Yikes!

soundguy

J_J · Oct 3, 2011

hyndsight.

I said this in post #11

[Did you remove the hoses at the cyl, or at the tee to each set of cyl? ]

Had you done this, and had a bad QD, you would have seen the problem.

If you had put a pressure gage in these same hoses, you would have seen whether or not you had pressure.

There is the possibility that the QD's might work in one direction and not the other, otherwise, let fluid into a cyl, but not let it out. An indicator to that is that the relief valve would activate before the cyl is maxed out.

A gage on the cyl would have helped.

The engine bogging down puzzled me because the PRV should have been relieving, unless you have a lot of GPM's to relieve.

I am not sure the relief valve can relieve the full tractor flow on high GPM tractors.