Flail Mower Hydraulic Flail Mower vs. Standard

[CPortu]

Hi All-

Looking for some insight on a Flail Mower purchase.

I'm looking at a Valu-Line Flail mower and trying to decide between a 60" Hydraulic Flail Mower (2050) vs. a 68" Standard Flail Mower. (1600)

Main use will be with clearing short brush initially and afterwards with mower our Tropical fruit orchard.

I had initially leaned towards the Hydraulic version as it has a heavier gear box (45 vs. 65) and I thought it may be more useful for getting into tight spaces but looking at the specs it seems like using the offset there isn't going to be a huge difference in reach given that one implement is shorter than other. My tractor is a 41 HP Yanmar LX4100 with a wheel base about 68" (slightly less)

Here are the links for the implements:

68

60" Hydraulic Offset Flail Mower EFGCH155 - Value Leader Implements

Thoughts? Anyone have experience with a hydraulic version of these? worth the added expense?

Thanks,
Carlos

 

[Industrial Toys]

IS the pump on the mower or is the tractor supposed to deliver the flow?

I have a 16' Alamo Flex Mower with shaft drive. Often thought, if hydraulic would be better. So I can only comment on the rotary mower. I can't use the machine up, only down, with the shafts in their proper position. I can't select only one deck. Plus I have to service all the U joints. On the other hand, shafts are more efficent and may run quieter and cooler.

Oh, I do have some 917 Flail mowers. Sometimes I forget all the stuff I have! Oh, and a Perfect offfset flail type mower, but it has ten pound cutting hammers. Maybe that is the machine I should be talking about. When it is at the extreme of it's sideway travel the joints do protest and I don't like that too much. Hydraulic would probably be better.

Sorry, I put up the wrong picture and can't t seem to be able to remove it

That's when I first bought the machine. It was missing the back roller which I ordered and also sandblasted/painted the machine.

 

[leonz]

Hi All-

Looking for some insight on a Flail Mower purchase.

I'm looking at a Valu-Line Flail mower and trying to decide between a 60" Hydraulic Flail Mower (2050) vs. a 68" Standard Flail Mower. (1600)

Main use will be with clearing short brush initially and afterwards with mower our Tropical fruit orchard.

I had initially leaned towards the Hydraulic version as it has a heavier gear box (45 vs. 65) and I thought it may be more useful for getting into tight spaces but looking at the specs it seems like using the offset there isn't going to be a huge difference in reach given that one implement is shorter than other. My tractor is a 41 HP Yanmar LX4100 with a wheel base about 68" (slightly less)

Here are the links for the implements:

68

60" Hydraulic Offset Flail Mower EFGCH155 - Value Leader Implements

Thoughts? Anyone have experience with a hydraulic version of these? worth the added expense?

Thanks,
Carlos

IS the pump on the mower or is the tractor supposed to deliver the flow?

I have a 16' Alamo Flex Mower with shaft drive. Often thought, if hydraulic would be better. So I can only comment on the rotary mower. I can't use the machine up, only down, with the shafts in their proper position. I can't select only one deck. Plus I have to service all the U joints. On the other hand, shafts are more efficent and may run quieter and cooler.

Oh, I do have some 917 Flail mowers. Sometimes I forget all the stuff I have! Oh, and a Perfect offfset flail type mower, but it has ten pound cutting hammers. Maybe that is the machine I should be talking about. When it is at the extreme of it's sideway travel the joints do protest and I don't like that too much. Hydraulic would probably be better.View attachment 356322

Sorry, I put up the wrong picture and can't t seem to be able to remove itView attachment 356323

That's when I first bought the machine. It was missing the back roller which I ordered and also sandblasted/painted the machine.

================================================================================================================================================================================================================================================



Ok before this goes any further,


What you are looking at "is" a flailmower with what it referred to as:


"HYDRAULIC SIDE SHIFT CAPABILITY"


I have commented on these mowers previously;
and again the steel for the mower shroud is too, too thin.

They do not offer any pictures of the flail mower rotor
which is a big problem and the descriptions are poor.

The way the steel sheet was formed for all models
reduces the rigidity of the mower BECAUSE the
mower hood should be curved to aid in creating
a greater weld length and maintaining suction/flow/lift
of the clippings

The mower shroud and frame will twist and rack
and place additional pressure on the bearings and
cause many problems.


If you cannot see the flailmower rotor and whether
it has weights welded to it to balance it I would not buy it.


The mowers design offers no, I repeat no substantial frame rigidity.


It is again a case of buyer beware (Caviat Emptor)



ITS your money, I still have the same flailmower after
32 years of use so that should tell you something.

 

[CPortu]

Hi Leonz,

Are you suggesting this brand of mower is no good or that the hydraulic side shift capability is poorly designed for this type of mower? I've seen pretty good reviews on ValueLine mowers in general, but hadn't seen much mentioned about the hydraulic side shift versions.

Thanks!
Carlos-

================================================================================================================================================================================================================================================



Ok before this goes any further,


What you are looking at "is" a flailmower with what it referred to as:


"HYDRAULIC SIDE SHIFT CAPABILITY"


I have commented on these mowers previously;
and again the steel for the mower shroud is too, too thin.

The do not offer any pictures of the flail mower rotor
which is a big problem and the descriptions are poor.

The way the steel sheet was formed for all models
reduces the rigidity of the mower.


The mower shroud and frame will twist and rack
and place additional pressure on the bearings and
cause many problems.

 

[leonz]

Hi Leonz,

Are you suggesting this brand of mower is no good or that the hydraulic side shift capability is poorly designed for this type of mower? I've seen pretty good reviews on ValueLine mowers in general, but hadn't seen much mentioned about the hydraulic side shift versions.

Thanks!
Carlos-

Buenos noches Carlos,


Momento;


The design for the mower shroud worries me as a flail mower
will have alway have a curved mower shroud which will permit the
side slicers or scoop knives to create suction on the turf as
it mows to lift the clippings over the flail mower rotor and back to
the ground.

I am glad to see the front guards PER the EU safety regulations
on the mower to prevent/slow down anything from being ejected to the front.

We do not even know at which speed is that the rotor was balanced and whether it was
rebalanced again with the knives.

The ability to switch the knives to hammer knives on some units is misleading as the flail mower rotors
are typically designed and the knive stations are welded on the rotor for a SINGLE type of knive.


With any side hydraulic side shifting mower you have to ask:

1. What grade of chrome plating was used?

A thin chrome plating job on the cylinder rod will wear and eventually leak oil

what grade of steel was used to make the cylinder rod? this affects the life span of the chrome plating too.


2. what is the required pressure relief setting for the cylinder WHICH must be adjusted
on the tractor.

3. why is there no flow control valve to control the speed of the shifting from side to side?You can blow a seal without
realising it.


I would rather you waited and talked to Ken Sweet as he a forum sponsor in
good standing about a flail mower.

I do not want to see you having problems Carlos, as a quality flailmower, even a used one
if taken care of will outlast every mule you buy to run it.


If they are unable or unwilling to show picture of the rotor and knives spells problem for me
because every manufacturer out there has pictures of their flail mower rotors in brochures or on line.




I realise you are looking at it as a problem with money and the present value of a dollar but the
more you spend on a good mower up front in purchase price the less it will cost you per
operating hour and it will outlive the Yanmar and any other tractor you put it on.


It takes a lot to make good flailmower and you need local support if you have problems.

It also takes a lot of work to make the flailmower knives as well and i have seen some new
horrible flail mower knives that "I" would send directly to the smelter as I would not use them.



Every Major brand that sells flailmowers has a dealer network so please think about that also.

I dont want to be a a buzz kill nor do I want to see you make a mistake either.

 

[CPortu]

Leonz,
I appreciate your input greatly. My preference has been to try and buy a decent flail mower used locally but down here in S. Florida- there just isn't much of that stuff!

 

[leonz]

Buenos tardes Carlos,

Muchas Gracias.

Please check with Ken Sweet and then
make decision as he has flail mowers too.


He may know of a JD25 A or equivalent mower for sale or
he may have one in his inventory.


Talk to Ken, tell him I sent you to him and I know he will help you if he can.