Hydraulic Cylinder End cap removal

[rboucher]

I have a John Deere 4610 with a 460 Loader. Could anyone tell me how to remove the end cap on one of the loader's hydraulic cylinders so I can install a new rod?

I've removed the split ring but that doesn't seem to lock the end cap in...

I've searched the internet but can't seem to find what exactly holds the end cap in place....
Thanks....

 

[KYErik]

I'm not familiar with the John Deere cylinders- but if there are holes in the end cap 180 degrees apart, you would use a spanner wrench and just unscrew the whole cap/end of cylinder.

Good luck!

 

[kennyd]

I have a John Deere 4610 with a 460 Loader. Could anyone tell me how to remove the end cap on one of the loader's hydraulic cylinders so I can install a new rod?

I've removed the split ring but that doesn't seem to lock the end cap in...

I've searched the internet but can't seem to find what exactly holds the end cap in place....
Thanks....

Welcome to TBN


There are two type used by JD, read THIS thread and see if it helps you-if not post back here

 

[rboucher]

KennyD,
It seems like that is the type of cylinder I'm working on. So I push the rod guide into the cylinder, locate a groove on the inside of the cylinder, insert the orange plastic split ring that is tapered on one edge, and pull the rod guide out ? is that correct?

One hitch, my original rod has stripped threads and is no longer attached to the piston...

What then?

 

[kennyd]

It seems like that is the type of cylinder I'm working on. So I push the rod guide into the cylinder, locate a groove on the inside of the cylinder, insert the orange plastic split ring that is tapered on one edge, and pull the rod guide out ? is that correct?

Yes, basically you pull the rod like a slide hammer.

One hitch, my original rod has stripped threads and is no longer attached to the piston...

Well, this suggestion is not for the faint-of-heart and should be used with EXTREME caution. I am not responsible for blah blah blah...anyway:

Put the orange split ring in, then pressurize the cylinder with air until the piston shoots itself out.

 

[rboucher]

KennyD,
First, Thanks for the welcome and your quick response...this site a great resource.
Second, I'm afraid that the piston with the rod thread sstripped and removed won't pressurize since rod is not threaded into the piston...right?

 

[kennyd]

Does the rod simple pull out? I guess I mis-interpreted the "stripped" part

Well, with enough air flowing into the cylinder the piston may "float" and you can then shake it down to the top...at least far enough to maybe hook it with something?

I am just guessing here-Never had this happen to me

 

[rboucher]

KennyD,
Yes, the rod just pulls completely out which leave the piston with a huge hole in it!

I have been able to move the piston to the cap end and I have pushed the rod guide in and inserted the orange split ring into the groove inside the cylinder...

now to find something that I can insert and hook on to the piston to pull the assembly out!

Thoughts?

 

[zzvyb6]

The John Deere website shows a pictorial breakdown of your cylinders (see agriculture\parts catalog for model = 460). Looks like there have been several cylinder releases for this loader. Hope that helps a bit more....

 

[rboucher]

Thanks Guys,
I would have have never figured this out on my own!

Now I also now where to find the darn parts breakdown on JDs website.

The last step is to find something to insert, hook the piston, and remove the end cap...:

 

[J_J]

Thanks Guys,
I would have have never figured this out on my own!

Now I also now where to find the darn parts breakdown on JDs website.

The last step is to find something to insert, hook the piston, and remove the end cap...:

If the piston hole is about 1/2 in, take a 1/4 rod and bend a small 90 degree end on it and insert in the cylinder center and hook the backside and you should be able to pull the piston out. When installing the new piston, be sure and use some locktite on the threaded end.

 

[parttimefarmer]

Not sure if your cylinder is same as used on my JD loaders. I have 48, 46A, 148, and 158 loaders and cylinders assemble same way in all four. There is a snap ring on the outside which prevents the head of the cylinder from sliding deeper into the cylinder. You can usually get it out with a couple screw drivers. It doesn't have any snap ring plier holes and might be too stiff even if it did. Once it is off you can push the head deeper into the cylinder exposing a wire ring snap ring. With the head out of the way it is relatively easy to hook the ring and get it out. It is what prevents the cylinder pressure from pushing the head out of the cylinder. The next part is the least obvious. The head pushing against the ring usually raises a burr at the edge of the groove where the wire ring snap ring sat. The head won't want to pull past that burr so you need to gently file or emery paper it down. If the rod is still attached to the piston you can now put a bar thru the rod eye and rap it with a big hammer to pull the head and piston out of the cylinder. The hard part for me is when you put everything back together you struggle to get the outside snap ring back in place. I made a special tool that allows me to put the tips of the snap ring in a tool that I can gradually spread. Be prepared, the snap ring will want to twist and jump off so you have to be holding it square against the head while spreading until it starts to slide on to the head. Put the snap rings around the rod before the head and piston.

 

[NCTruckServiceDotCom]

You guys just saved me..... Even my local Deere Dealer Mechanics looked at me like I was crazy. They all said, "It just unscrews.". Struggled for an hour or so. Researched for an hour or so. Found this thread, and five minutes later, DONE! Thanks